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Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW! - Page 297

post #4441 of 10570
Quote:
Originally Posted by drexman View Post

sharkz did you put lifters under the shure earpads?


I did. Right now I have some fairly closed foam lifting the back side of the pads up about 3/8". I think I need to experiment with some other materials though, but it does seem to have a positive effect on the sound so far.

 

post #4442 of 10570

I'm in on the group buy for the O2 amp.. board and front panels should be on the way.. I'm not trying to get off topic here, so a PM would be appreciated for the answer: what are people getting for the rest of the enclosure?

post #4443 of 10570

Wow, I rather like the mids with these.  At a bit of an impasse for further modding though.  I put rolled up wads of tissue paper behind the pads, and they significantly affect the comfort of these, dunno about the sound or not though.

 

I did put a square of electrical tape on the back of the driver, in the middle, but I'm having trouble telling any real difference here.  Not sure what else to do until I get my hands on more materials...

post #4444 of 10570

Someone should try the stock T40 w/ maybe the Shure pads + the Dared MP5! Forget about the deep bass... it's just so musical and spacious! Vocals sounds very natural biggrin.gif

post #4445 of 10570
Quote:
Originally Posted by dogears View Post

Someone should try the stock T40 w/ maybe the Shure pads + the Dared MP5! Forget about the deep bass... it's just so musical and spacious! Vocals sounds very natural biggrin.gif



How does it compare to your Pawstex biggrin.gif

post #4446 of 10570

The Gold [T50] Pawstex is hiding in my drawer biggrin.gif

post #4447 of 10570

*facepalm* I forgot I still have the Musiland so its foobar>Musiland02US LineOut>DaredMP5>SilverPawstex.

post #4448 of 10570
Quote:
Originally Posted by sharkz View Post


I'll see what I can do. It wasn't that hard, just time consuming the first time. The hardest part was threading the silicon wire through the rope without breaking the wire, fuzzing up the rope, or anything getting stuck. I started with 2mm rope, but it was just too small. Going up to 3mm was much easier, although it has resulted in a cable with a bigger cross section. All told, I spend about $25-30 on wire and nylon rope, although it might be possible to do it cheaper. The soldering is very easy with the Fostex pads and drilling holes for the cables is no big deal at all. The only thing I am not great with is the braiding. I recommend having a significant other skilled in the art of hair braiding help you out. That's what I did and it worked out very nicely.



That would be fantastic and I think many others will appreciate your input to.

post #4449 of 10570

let us know how well the 02 amp powers the t50rp, I am very curious, the designer is certainly convinced of its superiority.

post #4450 of 10570

According to this post, did anyone try the velour pad?

 

 

Of the pads I've been investigating I can give the following...

Stax. Good isolation, very comfortable, good sound +, decent soundstage, very expensive.

LCD2 rev1 pads. Very good isolation, good comfort, very good sound, good soundstage +, moderately expensive.

LCD2 rev2 pads. visually a little different, sonically about the same to my ears, so as good as the Rev1.

Beyer Gel pads. Ugly as sin, extreme isolation, good comfort, good sound +, good soundstage +, relatively inexpensive.

Beyer leather pads. Good isolation, good sound, good comfort, difficult to fit, decent soundstage, relatively inexpensive.

Beyer pleather pads. Good isolation, decent comfort, decent sound, decent soundstage, relatively inexpensive.

Beyer Black or Silver velour pads. When modified offer moderate isolation, very good comfort, very good sound, best soundstage, relatively inexpensive.

Fostex pads. Very good isolation, good comfort, good sound, lesser quality construction, moderate soundstage, free.

Denon pads, good isolation, good comfort, good sound, decent soundstage, moderately expensive.

This is my opinion based on tests with my experiment set.
They all have some compromise somewhere and none are perfect, some are extremely well suited to specific needs though.

 

post #4451 of 10570
Quote:
Originally Posted by Armaegis View Post


Welcome to headfi, sorry about the... oh wait you've heard this one before rolleyes.gif

 


I might return the Shure pads eventually..pretty frustrating not being able to put the pads on :P

 

post #4452 of 10570

You may have missed the post a few pages back. I don't remember who told me how to do this. It works every time without stressing the pad flaps and without frustration and litany of expletives. Turn the 840 pad flaps inside out, position the pad against the baffle, and roll the flaps back over the cups. Hold the sections you've rolled over onto the cups in place as you work your way around.
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by rawrster View Post


I might return the Shure pads eventually..pretty frustrating not being able to put the pads on :P

 



 

post #4453 of 10570

C'mon rawrster - you can do it! biggrin.gif

post #4454 of 10570

FWIW,

 

I re-tested the "Less is More?" mod with different amounts of 100% cotton added to the cups ranging from 1/2 to 1 Jumbo cotton ball teased apart vs no cotton filler. To my ears, cotton added no benefits and actually muffled the sound proportional to the amount used.

 

You can increase the bass quantity by adding more tungsten putty. I know, it sounds counter-intuitive but that's what I hear.

 

The components are as follows:

 

1. Tungsten Putty around the driver and up to the edge of the driver perimeter, sort of like a 1/2" wall of putty. Again, add more if you want more bass.

2. Paxmate Plus in the cup bottom with the stock bass port felt in place and uncovered; and the central compartment uncovered.

3. Dynamat surrounding the driver on the ear side after first removing the dust cover and adhesive; I left the dust cover in place over the drivers.

4. Stock driver felt or 1.5 layers of Transpore over the drivers.

5. Stock ear pads with a "rope" of Kleenex rolled up and about 4 or 5 inches long, placed under the rear side of the ear pads. Shure 840 pads are optional and may change the sound.

6. Plasticine or Paxmate in the cup outer rims.

 

I found that tungsten putty flush mass loaded filling all the baffle compartments also works and sounds similar to the above. I medium mass loaded another set, all other things being equal, and got more bass quantity. None of these configurations caused bass bleeding into the mids and treble remained unaffected, too.

 

May be placebo, but I believe the combination of tungsten putty and dynamat around the ear side of the drivers improves SQ, and I like what I hear. YMMV, etc.
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by rawrster View Post

So I went to B&H today to pick up some Beyerdynamic pads for my HE500 and I ended up picking up a T50RP and SRH840 pads there as well. It's funny how a $30 purchase turns into a $130 or so one :P

 

Anyway I was planning on getting the latest BMF mod and I hope to do that this weekend. I have the Rastapants and one for the BMF would be good to compare just to see. I'm not sure if the latest BMF works for SRH840 pads but they probably are not too different other than stiffness and the thickness of the pads.

 

 

yeah...how do u get the srh840 pads on?



 

post #4455 of 10570

BMF, I might have missed it somewhere, but have you given the recipe for your Tungsten putty? If not, do you plan to? I am curious how you formulated it if nothing else.

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