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Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW! - Page 175

post #2611 of 10570

WARNING!

 

I previously suggested using Loctite to secure baffle screws if you happen to strip them.  

 

DO NOT Use Loctite BLUE 242 in your Fostex T50RP!!  It literally melted the screw holes.  After the fact, I read the tiny print on the bottle and it clearly says DO Not Use With Plastics.  -----> Note to Myself:  Read the instructions before using anything, dumbass.  

 

This set of modded T50RP's have been opened and closed over 50 times for as many mod experiments.  It will now be put to rest but the drivers will be transplanted into Smeggy TP1's I received last week...Thanks Smeggy!

 

I am now going to open a brand new set of T50RP which is destined for a new pair of Rastapants this afternoon!

post #2612 of 10570


 

Quote:
Originally Posted by LFF View Post

LOL! I think the pads are too big.

 

However, the new HiFiMan pads might work like the Fischer pads. They are a bit small, but with a little bit of work, they should work out fine, much like the Fischer pads.

 

So...if anyone wants to send me their cans for modding, you can order a set of HiFiMan pads.....

 

 

What were the pads you used again?
 

 

post #2613 of 10570

Yesterday I modified my Fostex. The sound is amazing after adding mass and dampening. 

 

Nevertheless I think that something is damaged. Up to 125 Hz the bass is only reproduced in the right driver, since that frequency and up are in both drivers. I don´t know if the damage is in the driver or in the female jack, after putting some plasticine behind it.

 

Could anyone help me?

post #2614 of 10570
Quote:
Originally Posted by SLaRe View Post

Yesterday I modified my Fostex. The sound is amazing after adding mass and dampening. 

 

Nevertheless I think that something is damaged. Up to 125 Hz the bass is only reproduced in the right driver, since that frequency and up are in both drivers. I don´t know if the damage is in the driver or in the female jack, after putting some plasticine behind it.

 

Could anyone help me?

 

Go to Radio Shack and buy some Deoxit for the phono plug.
 

 

post #2615 of 10570
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemonkeyflyer View Post

Go to Radio Shack and buy some Deoxit for the phono plug.
 

 


Thanks for your help. As you can see, I have no access to a Radio Shack shop, since I live in Madrid. I will look for deoxit, but is there any other similar brand? Should I apply it on the outside of the plug or on the inside?

Hope this will solve my problem and the driver isn't damaged.
post #2616 of 10570

Sorry.  In my haste to reply and get back to my mods, I did not note you live in Spain!  I would Google Deoxit to find a similar product available in Europe.  Apply Deoxit to the 1/8" phono plug....read the instructions to be sure it will work.  Good luck!

post #2617 of 10570
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemonkeyflyer View Post

Sorry.  In my haste to reply and get back to my mods, I did not note you live in Spain!  I would Google Deoxit to find a similar product available in Europe.  Apply Deoxit to the 1/8" phono plug....read the instructions to be sure it will work.  Good luck!


I have a contact cleaner in spray. Would it be right? In appearence is the same format as deoxit and mine doesn't leave any residuum.
post #2618 of 10570
Quote:
Originally Posted by SLaRe View Post



I have a contact cleaner in spray. Would it be right? In appearence is the same format as deoxit and mine doesn't leave any residuum.


Contact cleaner is what you want.  Suggest you spray the male pin instead of into the socket, then insert the pin, twist, remove and reinsert a few times...

post #2619 of 10570
Quote:
Originally Posted by purrin View Post


 

 

What were the pads you used again?
 

 


Modified Fischer Audio FA-003 leather pads.

 

post #2620 of 10570
You can remove the stock white felt from the back of the drivers in one piece and save it in case you want to reverse that mod. Use a small brush to sparingly apply acetone to the grid under the felt. This loosens the adhesive and allows you to lift an edge of the felt with an xacto knife. You may need to re-moisten with a bit more acetone. It peels off in one piece. Rubber cement might work for gluing it back on if you want to go back to stock.
post #2621 of 10570

I've been listening to these all day and continue to be very impressed. I have no problem recommending the Rastapants T50RPs over most of the mid-fi headphones in most circumstances. They're that good. They're not the kind of headphones that will "wow" the uninitiated with gobs of bass, or a huge soundstage, or a forward treble that pops out at you. But the more you sink into these headphones, and let its sound signature invade your brain, you'll realize that everything just sounds right

 

I'd like to tinker some more with the bass port/vent, and different felt material, but I like these so much right now I don't feel the need to open these. 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrspeakers View Post

 

You summed up the major changes very well, but there's one more that to me is crucially important; I can hear way deeper into the midrange.  It's particularly emphasized when you listening to really complex multi-tracked vocals or choral works.  While the mids are brought to a more neutral stance than stock, they are also simultaneously way, way, way more revealing.

 

With the T50 mod I hear really deep into the music.  I can hear discrete voices that once were blended into a more diffuse and blended vocal "sound." For example listening to Born on Punches or Houses in Motion on the fabulous 24/96 remaster of Remain in Light from HDTracks.  Every detail of Brian Eno's and David Byrne's stunning backing vocals stands out in bass-relief.  Localization is precise, and the interplay of the harmonies, which often sound like just 1-2 voices, creates a richly textured interplay that creates a radically different experience to the music.  


+1 to this as well. This is only the second orthos I've heard, but these drivers live and thrive in the midrange. 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sardonyx View Post

IMHO, there should be more Dynamat coverage.  It doesn't have to cover every square mm of the surface, but you left some fairly large open areas.  I don't think you NEED to remove the foam to cover more, but it's something to keep in mind if you notice any echoy noise.

 

 

Thanks for the tip. I don't hear much resonance, as the chassis seems very tight, but more Dynamat can't hurt. I'll try to add more next time I open these cups up. 

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by micmacmo View Post

@questhate, you did a great job getting the white cloth off of the driver so cleanly. What's your secret? Did you apply some solvent to the cloth to ease off the adhesive?

 

Not much secret. I just took an exacto knife, and peeled a corner of it until there was enough to grab with my fingers. Then I pulled slow and gently. I got the newest batch of these, so maybe the glue on this batch isn't quite as strong as the older ones. 

post #2622 of 10570
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemonkeyflyer View Post

Sorry.  In my haste to reply and get back to my mods, I did not note you live in Spain!  I would Google Deoxit to find a similar product available in Europe.  Apply Deoxit to the 1/8" phono plug....read the instructions to be sure it will work.  Good luck!



 



Quote:
Originally Posted by mrspeakers View Post




Contact cleaner is what you want.  Suggest you spray the male pin instead of into the socket, then insert the pin, twist, remove and reinsert a few times...



Thanks guys. You saved my day. The bass balance has improved a lot with the contact cleaner, although after working I need to take a closer look at it.

post #2623 of 10570

Here's a couple of pix of how my modding is coming so far (to Rastapants specs):

 

Getting the clay in was fun.. it felt like I was back in kindergarten, messing with playdough.. LOL:

 

IMG_0751.JPG

 

^ Getting the white, paper-ish square off the back of the driver was a royal PIA.  I'm in awe of those who got it off in one piece.  Not sure if Fostex has changed how they're bonding it to the inner baffle/driver on the the new batch of phones but it was glued with baby Jesus' tears for all I could tell.  I ended up having to cut each square off (very carefully not to damage the driver) with the Xacto knife then cleaned/scraped off the rest.  I am a ninja with the Xacto knife now.  Pictured above is the stiff craft felt attached to the driver backing.

 

IMG_0753.JPG

 

^ I spent entirely too much time getting the cups lined perfectly with the Silverstone acoustic foam (which is awesome to work with, BTW!).  Someone forgot to take their OCD medication!  I removed the felt on the the ear side of the baffle & lined it with acoustic foam too (leaving the driver exposed).  I'll be doing the other cup tonight/tomorrow, then playing with the venting.

 

Are we supposed to cover the vent on the ear side of the baffle?


Edited by FlySweep - 9/19/11 at 11:56am
post #2624 of 10570
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlySweep View Post

Here's a couple of pix of how my modding is coming so far (to Rastapants specs):

 

Getting the clay in was fun.. it felt like I was back in kindergarten, messing with playdough.. LOL:


 

I felt the same way pretty much except mine doesn't look as clean as yours does
 

post #2625 of 10570
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlySweep View Post

 

Are we supposed to cover the vent on the ear side of the baffle?



The vent that was covered?

 

You can, I didn't. It gives more detail in the short run. More defined bass, but less of it.

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