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Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW! - Page 737

post #11041 of 11051
Quote:
Originally Posted by fleasbaby View Post


It's pretty hard to beat a pair of woodied 225i...I was all about Grados for years. My switch to T50rp was because I discovered there is a level of detail without aggression that the Fostex can offer...

I am standing on the shoulders of giants...everything I am doing is based on the awesome work documented in this thread and the other one...nothing amazing or new here, just the ghost of Smeggy hanging about with the collective consciousness of the T50rp modding threads...

That is exactly what got me hooked on planars. I listen to alot of progressive metal, technical metal and progressive rock. Those genres demand speed and tactility. But then i listen to alot of grunge and slow stuff (team sleep,steven wilson solo,mark lanegan solo, and so on). The he4 and t50 are fantastic with every genre ive listened to. Classical, rock, alternative, everything!


Edited by hemipowered007 - 3/3/15 at 8:17pm
post #11042 of 11051
Quote:
Originally Posted by planarmagnetic View Post

I'm not allowed to disclose the price. However I can tell you it would only be a limited edition and with direct to consumer pricing I think it would be around 150-200. I have my own machine shop with a CNC 3d printer and could mold the parts plastic parts with resin. I just curious if people would be interested in something like this.

Might be interested too. Although my girlfriend would have a cow if I bought another pair of headphones, nevermind ones that are more then $30 heh


@fleasbaby once you go orthro you never go back, or once and orthrohead, always an orthrohead. I'm sure there's more sayings we can come up with heh
Edited by SeEnCreaTive - 3/4/15 at 11:19am
post #11043 of 11051

Just finished off my new babies....after having my all-black pair for a year now, my friend wants them...

So I thought I'd go for the other end of the color spectrum ;-)

 

 

Need to re-do a bit of sanding/touch up paint work, as I was too keen to get them finished and nicked them in a couple of places during cable install...:o 


Edited by Lohb - 3/7/15 at 4:35am
post #11044 of 11051
Nice work! Did you find any difference in SQ between T20RP and T50RP?
post #11045 of 11051
Quote:
Originally Posted by peterinvan View Post

Nice work! Did you find any difference in SQ between T20RP and T50RP?


After modding internally, nope. Front side vents sealed except 1 hole in stock vent and old cable route left open.

Once I tore off the rubber headband, I put a bit more clamp on the stock band to get the ear clamp just right....still dialing in on this-and-that on day 2 or so... Patience is a virtue with waiting for paint to fully dry though !


Edited by Lohb - 3/7/15 at 6:36am
post #11046 of 11051

Anyone ran their Fostex T50-RP off the HRT MicroStreamer ? Bass control/dynamics OK, or a bit lacking ?

On paper it is low power, but I think Mike Mercer said it powered a few planar cans surprisingly well...

 


Edited by Lohb - 3/10/15 at 2:54am
post #11047 of 11051

Can anyone recommended a generic bash case for transporting my Fostex...I just use my old HFM felt bag... but its a pain, and no impact protection from stuff in my bag...

post #11048 of 11051
Quote:
Originally Posted by fleasbaby View Post

I am standing on the shoulders of giants...everything I am doing is based on the awesome work documented in this thread and the other one...nothing amazing or new here, just the ghost of Smeggy hanging about with the collective consciousness of the T50rp modding threads...

I echo these sentiments. Thanks everyone. Here is my third set of mods...


Used vinyl decal to block all but one vent. Other openings sealed

Used cosmetic sponges (well rinsed and dried), attached with scrapbooking tape to line the cup. Used adhesive felt on other exposed areas.
Mis-aligned on one of the six holes mad.gif but left the 10mm treble reflector underneath the felt. Used a small amount of layered cotton.
Added a clay "gasket" to seal the cups when screwed back.

This produced more bass and sub-bass, but with a small loss in acoustic bass speed and tautness. A brighter overall sound, with clear mids and highs. Great separation and soundstage. Very happy with these improvements. I no longer feel I have to turn up the volume to hear the bass.


Made a new cable using marine rope and whipping cord.
post #11049 of 11051
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lohb View Post

Can anyone recommended a generic bash case for transporting my Fostex...I just use my old HFM felt bag... but its a pain, and no impact protection from stuff in my bag...
Search 'Slappa hardshell headphone case'. They make some pretty good stuff for their prices.
post #11050 of 11051

Been busy at work lately, but have managed to keep some time in the workshop going...

 

I have managed to finally tweak a stock pair to my liking. Final configuration is:

 

Alpha Pads

Stiffened craft felt with no holes punched over the back of the driver

Two balls of cotton teased out and placed in the wells of the cups

Dynamat in the wells of the cups, and over the vents and the blank spot above the arm hangar in the cup.

Akasa Paxmate over that

Silverstone ladderring over the Akasa

Putty in the baffle and sealing the baffles to the cups

A 1/8 th inch hole drilled in below where the vents were

 

To round out that home-made, Darth Vader look I used acetone to remove all printing on the cups.

 

 

Fun experiments I did along the way before coming to that configuration:

 

MDF square instead of black felt over the back of the driver (killed the bass completely)

MDF square with lots of random little holes drilled in it instead of black felt over the driver (loads of bass, might revisit that one later and try it again in conjunction with different cup-filling materials)

The above MDF square with no holes over the back of the driver and an MDF square with holes drilled over the front of the driver....think primitive fazor (still bassless...fazor made no difference)

Small square of adhesive felt with a hole punched in the middle stuck onto the white felt over the back of the driver (...meh...)

 

I also did these in Rosewood for an Instagram friend who asked to do the assembly himself (thanks for the cable @cCasper TFG):

 

 

And these:

 


Edited by fleasbaby - Yesterday at 5:45 am
post #11051 of 11051
Quote:
Originally Posted by fleasbaby View Post
 

Been busy at work lately, but have managed to keep some time in the workshop going...

 

I have managed to finally tweak a stock pair to my liking. Final configuration is:

 

Alpha Pads

Stiffened craft felt with no holes punched over the back of the driver

Two balls of cotton teased out and placed in the wells of the cups

Dynamat in the wells of the cups, and over the vents and the blank spot above the arm hangar in the cup.

Akasa Paxmate over that

Silverstone ladderring over the Akasa

Putty in the baffle and sealing the baffles to the cups

A 1/8 th inch hole drilled in below where the vents were

 

To round out that home-made, Darth Vader look I used acetone to remove all printing on the cups.

 

Fun experiments I did along the way before coming to that configuration:

 

MDF square instead of black felt over the back of the driver (killed the bass completely)

MDF square with lots of random little holes drilled in it instead of black felt over the driver (loads of bass, might revisit that one later and try it again in conjunction with different cup-filling materials)

The above MDF square with no holes over the back of the driver and an MDF square with holes drilled over the front of the driver....think primitive fazor (still bassless...fazor made no difference)

Small square of adhesive felt with a hole punched in the middle stuck onto the white felt over the back of the driver (...meh...)

 

I also did these in Rosewood for an Instagram friend who asked to do the assembly himself (thanks for the cable @cCasper TFG):

 

 

And these:

 

:beerchug: :popcorn:

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