Yeah thats exactly what Im going to do, try the realiser first with the hd650 and then upgrade. Also a buttkicker, but Im not sure about that.

In the hdmi case, dont worry Im good, my geforce 660 have 7.1 ouput, also the software to decode dts and dd, so, no problem in that regard.

Thank you so much!

Ok, I understand how this all works and is connected.
I also see there is a dealer in Germany where I could try this system out first to see if I like it because there is a software-only system on this forum that I tried and didn't like at all.
 
But what I am curious to know about is:
 
How do people go about taking their in-ear measurements of speaker setups they want to hear.
 
For example, we have a big theatre that has Dolby Atmos not far from where I live.
Can you simply go in there and reord the sound from a film and do you have to be alone in the room or doesn't it matter if there is sound from other people?
Or do specific test tones have to be recorded.
 
If I'd buy a Realiser I would like to record the sound of a top-end B&W setup and Sonus Faber setup I know I can have access to and try to find a way to record in the Atmos theatre.
 
So how does the recording need to be done and how did you guys go about it short from traveling around the globe to the few places that deliver this specific service?

Read:
http://www.smyth-research.com/technology.html   ("The measurements" section already tells everything you asked!!)
http://www.smyth-research.com/downloads/A8manual.pdf
...and many reviews around for it which explain these things in quite detail
 
You need to have Realiser with you when taking measurements and output the test tones from it's RCA outputs for all 2-8 channels. Obviously a huge undertaking in a real theatre (you would need to rent it for few hours, roll 50 meters of cables, find a mixing desk etc..). I don't think many people care for a "real theater sound" anyway, it's gimmicky to me (too much reverb etc). And it sounds funny to your brain when listening to it in a small home.
 
So unless you have a friend or hifishop locally who lets you use their speakers, you can always rent a recording studio for an hour or two. But you need to learn how to operate and measure properly yourself. Only other alternatives is to go to the handful of places on planet which provide "Realiser services". I think the official German place takes some absurd fee like 800€, but you decide if it's fine for the convenience.

Skip all these expensive measurements and  get your own PRIR that represents your current system setup.

I have a small home theater with a slight acoustic treatment and 5.1 Pioneer SP-PK52FS, all being captured by the Realiser .

The result is impressive with my denon 7000; now I have the sound of my speakers all inside my headphone cups. Cool!

Getting measurements done at a much higher end studio like AIX Records makes a huge difference. I can't emphasize enough how big a difference in sound quality it makes.

You can always measure your own home set up, but if you even remotely have a chance to get your PRIR measured at a really high end set up, just do it.

edwood said:

Getting measurements done at a much higher end studio like AIX Records makes a huge difference. I can't emphasize enough how big a difference in sound quality it makes.

You can always measure your own home set up, but if you even remotely have a chance to get your PRIR measured at a really high end set up, just do it.

Click to expand...

I agree.  I have measurements from AIX and another from a friend's 2 channel mastering studio.  It makes a huge difference and is well worth the effort and expense.  That being said, learning to measure your own system is helpful if you go to a studio or showroom that won't take the measurements for you.

Sure, I've tested various PRIRs made by other, the greatest one was "Sonus Faber Room" made by Darinf. However, the most realistic PRIR for me is the one I made. If the access to such expensive setups is difficult, just make your own if you have a decent full range speakers system. 

Yep, if I would get me a realizer, the whole idea would be to record a true movies theater and two epexnsive stereo setups. I wouldn't be buying this to record my own home cinema, I can simly listen to that one without headphones.
But it seems recording in a movie theater is nearly impossible since I believe the test signals come from the realiser and that would need a long run of cables.
And one needs a mixing desk as well? Not sure why that would be needed though.

appleheadmay said:

  And one needs a mixing desk as well? Not sure why that would be needed though.

Click to expand...

 
What I referred as "mixing desk" was just something that you can hook up the signals to. I have no idea how audio is setup in a real theatre, but sometimes finding suitable analog inputs is a real pain - there might even not be any analog inputs if everything is handled digitally (or they are hidden in the racks with impossible access), so you might need own multichannel analog to digital converter etc. Studios use mainly XLR, there you need suitable RCA->XLR cables/converters etc.

hekeli said:

   
What I referred as "mixing desk" was just something that you can hook up the signals to. I have no idea how audio is setup in a real theatre, but sometimes finding suitable analog inputs is a real pain - there might even not be any analog inputs if everything is handled digitally (or they are hidden in the racks with impossible access), so you might need own multichannel analog to digital converter etc. Studios use mainly XLR, there you need suitable RCA->XLR cables/converters etc.

Click to expand...

 
Ah, I see. But for the rest it's hooking up the Realisers's 8 channels, playing the test tones twice for a few minutes and done as I understood from his site?
And a nice run of cables like you said.
Would be swell though to record a Dolby Atmos movie theatre and be able to replicate that at home with a pair of good headphones.
What headphones do you use with the realiser by the way? Something with a wide soundstage or doesn't that really matter?

appleheadmay said:

   
Ah, I see. But for the rest it's hooking up the Realisers's 8 channels, playing the test tones twice for a few minutes and done as I understood from his site?
And a nice run of cables like you said.
Would be swell though to record a Dolby Atmos movie theatre and be able to replicate that at home with a pair of good headphones.
What headphones do you use with the realiser by the way? Something with a wide soundstage or doesn't that really matter?

Click to expand...

 
Well yeah basically it goes like that. One need a bit of practise to be able to handle the whole operation smoothly, speaker angles need to be setup right etc. There's lots of button pushing and different modes of operation that need to be understood well for optimum results.
 
Headphone talk you can find lots in this thread. Preferably you need good open ones with linear frequency and minimal distortion, Stax, HD800 etc.

Thanks for the info! Reading up a bit on the manual. I can see experimenting at home first would be wise before trying to take it further and record in an actual theater.

I'm looking for some advice configuring the Realiser for Direct Bass + Managed bass + Tactile outputs. Going over the manual a few times I gathered that:

1. "Direct bass" means redirecting the LFE signal direct to the headphone, e.g. bypass SVS
2. "Managed bass" means high-pass filtering (HPF setting) each speaker channel
3. For direct bass, the SW-ch need to be disabled/unselected, replaced instead with AUX

 
Here's my best attempt at the settings for Hekeli's Siba 7.1 PRIR /w a tactile transducer, but I'm not entirely sure I know what I'm doing. 

1. For example, Direct bass calls for HP MIX 0.0 in MENU-TAC (p76) but then using tactile transducer needs the same setting to be set to 1.0 (p78)?
2. I'm not sure what MIX BLOCK for LS, RS is for... should C use mix block too, and why doesn't mix blocks apply for LB, RB 

 

1. MENU-L
   1. L vSPKR SETUP1
      1. FILTERS
         1. ROLL OFF: 80Hz
         2. HPF: YES
         3. OFF all others

1. MENU-R
   1. R vSPKR SETUP1
      1. FILTERS
         1. ROLL OFF: 80Hz
         2. HPF: YES
         3. OFF all others

1. MENU-C
   1. C vSPKR SETUP1
      1. FILTERS
         1. ROLL OFF: 80Hz
         2. HPF: YES
         3. OFF all others
      2. MIX BLOCK
         1. 0.0 x all channels
      3. LPF MIX: NO

1. MENU-SW
   1. Unassigned

1. MENU-LS
   1. LS vSPKR SETUP1
      1. FILTERS
         1. ROLL OFF: 80Hz
         2. HPF: YES
         3. OFF all others
      2. MIX BLOCK
         1. 1.0 x LS
         2. 0.0 x all other channels

1. MENU-RS
   1. RS vSPKR SETUP1
      1. FILTERS
         1. ROLL OFF: 80Hz
         2. HPF: YES
         3. OFF all others
      2. MIX BLOCK
         1. 1.0 x RS
         2. 0.0 x all other channels

1. MENU-LB
   1. LB vSPKR SETUP1
      1. FILTERS
         1. ROLL OFF: 80Hz
         2. HPF: YES
         3. OFF all others

1. MENU-RB
   1. RB vSPKR SETUP1
      1. FILTERS
         1. ROLL OFF: 80Hz
         2. HPF: YES
         3. OFF all others

1. MENU-TAC
   1. SETUP
      1. MIX TO HP: Y
      2. VOL: -4 dB
      3. DELAY: 5ms
      4. ROLL OFF: 200Hz
   2. MIX BLOCK L-ch
      1. 1.0 x L
      2. 0.5 x C
      3. 0.5 x AUX
      4. 1.0 x LS
      5. 1.0 x LB
      6. 0.0 all others
   3. MIX BLOCK R-ch
      1. 1.0 x R
      2. 0.5 x C
      3. 0.5 x AUX
      4. 1.0 x RS
      5. 1.0 x RB
      6. 0.0 all others
   4. HP MIX: 0.0

Hi guys and gals,
 
I think it is time for me to jump in.
 
I apologize that I haven't read through the entire thread, YET.  I will.  I have read a lot.
 
My huge multi-piece system is in boxes in the garage since my relocation to a new state, Texas.
 
see it here - http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?vevol&1317958032&view
 
It will eventually be setup, sampled, and then sold off.
 
Of course I will upload the files for all to use on the PRIR exchange thread - http://www.head-fi.org/t/610920/smyth-svs-realiser-prir-exchange-thread
 
My new A8 should be on the way to me this week.
 
I would like some early recommendations, if you please.
 
I am using some King Sound H3 and M20 (Bugle Boy 12AX7's at input and Blue Circle BC-68 power cord).
 
I have a Son of Q Equi=tech arriving today, and a PurePower 1050 early next week.
 
I am currently using a W4S slightly modified DAC-2 with active, tube shielded interconnects.
 
This is more revealing of subtleties in many recordings (16/44.1 rips) than my big rig was.
 
When I sample my big rig, which images amazingly, and the A8 recreates that through my headphones, will I loose the additional inner detail I am now enjoying from my new electrostatic headphones?
 
Any early suggestions?
 
Thanks for any help.  
 
 
New to headphones,
Bruce

dbaw said:

  Hi guys and gals,
 
I think it is time for me to jump in.
 
I apologize that I haven't read through the entire thread, YET.  I will.  I have read a lot.
 
My huge multi-piece system is in boxes in the garage since my relocation to a new state, Texas.
 
see it here - http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?vevol&1317958032&view
 
It will eventually be setup, sampled, and then sold off.
 
Of course I will upload the files for all to use on the PRIR exchange thread - http://www.head-fi.org/t/610920/smyth-svs-realiser-prir-exchange-thread
 
My new A8 should be on the way to me this week.
 
I would like some early recommendations, if you please.
 
I am using some King Sound H3 and M20 (Bugle Boy 12AX7's at input and Blue Circle BC-68 power cord).
 
I have a Son of Q Equi=tech arriving today, and a PurePower 1050 early next week.
 
I am currently using a W4S slightly modified DAC-2 with active, tube shielded interconnects.
 
This is more revealing of subtleties in many recordings (16/44.1 rips) than my big rig was.
 
When I sample my big rig, which images amazingly, and the A8 recreates that through my headphones, will I loose the additional inner detail I am now enjoying from my new electrostatic headphones?
 
Any early suggestions?
 
Thanks for any help.  

 
 
New to headphones,
Bruce

Click to expand...

Hey Bruce,
 
It's important to understand that the headphones themselves are by far the biggest factor here in whether or not the Realiser will live up to its potential.
 
I've come to understand that the physical comfort, imaging capabilities, dynamic capabilities, and a wide bandwidth are the most important qualities.  Neutrality is also important so that the headphones don't impart too much of their own coloration to the emulation.
 
Talking to the people at Smyth, it was my impression that they choose to bundle the Stax headphones primarily due to their lightweight and comfort.  
 
IMHO, the Realiser comes pretty close, but does not perfectly clone a speaker system.  To my ears there's always an added high frequency emphasis (which, however, could be corrected for with eq) and the phantom center in stereo is not as solid and precise as speaker playback.  Thus, a headphone that doesn't already have too much HF emphasis might be preferable to something like an HD800. Open headphones, which generally have more natural stereo presentation or ones that use angled drivers to create a better stereo impression also should be considered.  Likewise it stands to reason that Harmon's eq curve that led to their "Room Feel" thing might do well as these headphones (NAD Viso HP50 and PSB m4u) are already tuned to sound like speakers in a nicely acoustically treated living room.
 
To answer your specific question, the headphones when used with the Realiser will no longer act like sonic microscopes and an amount of detail loss similar to when you listen to speakers should be expected.  
 
For a general idea of what to expect, try Darin Fong's Out Of Your Head software to hear what I'm talking about.