I don't think there's a real
BOM, as such. Part of the fun is the flexibility.
The diode is a LED, which lights when the amp is turned on. It's designed so that you can stick it under the tube, if you like. I don't like, so I'm just using a 5mm green LED, but if you want to go that route, you'll probably want to use a 3mm high-intensity LED.
You'll need a 6DJ8 or equivalent tube, and a nine-pin (sometimes called "noval"), PCB-mount socket. I'm using something like this
; you can also go for one of these
There were a number of links for the Japanese transistors earlier in this thread; BG101 is a TO-220 LM317, like this one
You can pick up the potentiometer, and a DC power jack that will work just fine, from Amb
For resistors, I'm using generic 1/4W 1% metal film ones, from a $12 assortment on eBay; it's unclear whether R101/R201 really need
to be 1W resistors, as specified in the schematic. If so, this should work quite well
. R103/R203 and R107/R207 seem to be the only resistors "in the audio path", and you could use "boutique" resistors here if you really wanted, like Mouser 660-SPR2CT521R100J for R107/R207.
The capacitor choices probably aren't too critical; use whatever decent caps you can find for most of the positions (Panasonic FM, or whatever); C101/C201 and C102/C202 are the input and output signal coupling caps, respectively. I'd suggest some kind of nicer axial-leaded cap for the '01 position; I'll probably use some Soviet PIO caps, or maybe some smallish ERO poly caps, here. I have my doubts about the '02 cap positions; I doubt 1000uf is really
necessary, and will be trying some 3.3uf Wima film caps instead.