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Millett "Starving Student" hybrid amp - Page 46

post #676 of 6806
Quote:
Where is the love?
The internet killed off all the love back in 98
post #677 of 6806
^Nice!

Now I want more tube sets! - awww this hobby never ends does it?
post #678 of 6806
.
post #679 of 6806
I totally want to see how the Mini Millet come on this forum!
post #680 of 6806
Quote:
Originally Posted by -=Germania=- View Post
I totally want to see how the Mini Millet come on this forum!
Heh heh, I wanna see the Mosfet Max website!


Coming Soon!
Mid-March, 2008




Tee-hee Tom, I guess July is the new March! Haha, no hurries though; we all are really appreciative of all the work you've done on these projects!
post #681 of 6806
Quote:
Originally Posted by bperboy View Post
Heh heh, I wanna see the Mosfet Max website!


Coming Soon!
Mid-March, 2008

<IMG]http://www.diyforums.org/MOSFET-MAX/MOSFET-MAX.gif[/IMG>


Tee-hee Tom, I guess July is the new March! Haha, no hurries though; we all are really appreciative of all the work you've done on these projects!
Yeah, we're behind - that's true. However, we're trying to get the power supply as clean as we can make it. I've got a lot of work to do this weekend concerning that. Bottom line, cetoole and I are perhaps within a week or two of ordering prototype MiniMAX boards. The MOSFET-MAX may be closer than that.

But I digress ... and discussing this is a thread-jack - even if it's still "all things Millett." So, please accept my apologies, Pete/Nate. You all know where to look to find the updates on this other stuff, though.
post #682 of 6806


Ugh, these darned things arrived in the mail today. Looks like I have to build an amplifier now.
post #683 of 6806

Layout questions

Somewhere in this thread it says that "R3 and R9 should be directly connected to the gate legs of the MOSFETs" - how important is the "directly" bit of this. Would an inch or so of wire make any difference?

Also, would it be OK if I connected C3 and C5 to pin 3 of the valve bases (and then run a wire from pin 3 to the source leg of the FET) rather than directly to the source legs of the MOSFETs (for neatness reasons as the valves are closer to the output jack than the FETs are in my layout)?

Sorry if these are stupid questions - I've never worked a layout out from a schematic before.
post #684 of 6806
It is a good idea if you can, but I definitely believe that you can have a small piece of coated and/or tinned wire between the two.

My case is thicker than any I have seen on the forum and that made me have to use a small piece of wire to extend the pins, that one included. The whole thing is to be reasonable and try to keep it as close as you can. Make sure that you have very secure and clean solder joints as this always translates to a better overall product.
post #685 of 6806
Quote:
Originally Posted by keiths View Post
Somewhere in this thread it says that "R3 and R9 should be directly connected to the gate legs of the MOSFETs" - how important is the "directly" bit of this. Would an inch or so of wire make any difference?
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomb
2. Do you have R3 and R9 tied directly to the gate legs of the MOSFETs? Pete and Nate both have mentioned a couple of times that might induce oscillation if that isn't done. It's hard to say if that attributes to the hum, but my guess is that it will definitely cause more noise.
The reason for this is the additional inductance of either long leads or wire. I'm guessing that additional wire/lead length on the other side of R3/R9 is not critical, but that is just a guess.
post #686 of 6806
Thanks -=Germainia=- and Pars - I'll take that advice onboard. Regarding the C3 and C5 question, I've just looked at the photos of vixr's build a few pages back, and it looks like he's connected those the same way as I was intending.

Thanks again!
post #687 of 6806
I'm just about to start my build and I have a few questions.

I was print out the data sheets in preparation of drilling the holes in the case and I noticed the power jack in the BOM is only rated for 12V. Don't I need one rated for over 48V such as this?

Most of the data sheets don't say how to wire up the component. That's fine for the jacks, but are there instructions somewhere for how to wire up a pot?

Edit: I found this post on wiring a pot. So I'll go with it.

Quote:
Three terminals for each section of the pot. The middle terminal is the wiper and is the output of the pot, that goes to the amp circuits. The input feeds to the one one the right side of the pot, when the shaft of the pot is facing you. The left terminal goes to ground. The second section of the pot is the same, only it gets used for the other channel. If that doesn't clear it up, let me know, as I know sometimes written explinations are tough to make sense of.
post #688 of 6806
WRT layout, I figured out a lot by poring over the build photos on this thread....
post #689 of 6806
Looking at the pictures, I can see how the power jack is wired, but in Pete's picture, it looks completely different than what I ordered. His has a square of brown material under the pins, mine doesn't. Also mine didn't come with nuts to hold them in. Do they usually come with nuts, or do you have to order them separately.

I went to Radio Shack and bought a power jack. However, no where is there an indication of how many volts it can handle.
post #690 of 6806
Thread Starter 
A little underwhelming for a desktop amp, but this thing can deliver about 150mW into an 8 ohm speaker. You probably want some 1000uF or bigger output caps, though.

Then there's always something like what I use...

Hybrid amp with adjustable damping

Pete
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