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The Apple diyMod: My Take on the Famous iMod [56k killer] Featuring 3G, 4G, 5G and nano 1G! - Page 2

post #16 of 2981
Quote:
Originally Posted by vvs_75 View Post
<snip>
The problem is that the pads of the PCB unbelievable fragile and will break off as soon as you try to move or bend the wire! <snip>
Yes I've lifted pads in the past (yuk!). Now as soon as I'm sure the wires are soldered well I hit 'em with a dab of hot glue to try to tack them down & keep them from moving. Not sure there's much room for that in an iPod tho.
post #17 of 2981
Yeah, please post how to do it with a Nano, I have a 1st gen that is just collecting dust...I know I would succeed in the mod.
post #18 of 2981
I'll give you props if you make a tutorial!!
post #19 of 2981
I can tell you what to do from the board picture I see and then you need to improvise to get the job done or just wait few days when I got mine and then I will provide tutorials with pics !

I do both a bit latter!
post #20 of 2981
VVs, that sounds fine. I have a 1st gen nano, and if you look at the link of the nano he posted, tell me from that board...the rest i can figure out(like the circuit with caps and resistors, and soldering to the phones port,ect)
post #21 of 2981
Thread Starter 
[Locate the WM8975 CODEC to the middle left above the two yellow components.] You can either take the audio feed from either the top (north) of C86 and C87 there, or above the C53 and C54, the two black elements with the Z printed on them. The sound is exactly the same from either one, but the C53 and C54 pair can be inverted to feed a speaker (invert the C54 line). Feeding them straight to your DC blocking caps to your stereo jack would be the same setup for both pairs. Send the signals to the positive lead of a 1uF cap and straight to the headphone jack. Now the datasheet says to put 100ohm resisters after the DC blocking caps to protect from improper usage, but I didn't want to degrade the sound with noisy resistors since I won't be letting anyone use my iPod anyways (who would want to with the way it looks?).

Starting from C86, that's pin 12. Going counter-clockwise, 12 is LOUT1, 13 is ROUT1, 14 is HPGND, 15 is ROUT2, 16 is LOUT2. All this can be gathered from the datasheet, and page 37 will carry the bulk of the information. All the grounds on the WM8975 will have the same voltage, so you can use any ground associated with the chip. I tried soldering my ground wire to the same ground supply as the chip on the LCD side of the 4G iPod board. I soldered it to a tiny SMD capacitor, so it kept falling off. I compromised with a poke-and-listen approach that encouraged me to disable the clicking sound feature. A fun consequence of using external-to-the-iPod-casing caps is that you can still use your LODs. I won't imagine you will, but if you want to use a Bose Sound Dock, the option is there.

post #22 of 2981
Like this? Seems too easy?!? I really appreciate your help on this!



post #23 of 2981
Thread Starter 
Perfect.

[edit: Just send the negative ends to the stereo jack, ground the jack, and you're pretty close to set.]
post #24 of 2981
Cool, so can I unsolder the c86,87 caps? Or should I just leave them there?
post #25 of 2981
Thread Starter 
There's the thing of paralleling inputs and its effects on your lineout's sound. I'm not sure how that would affect it, so you'd have to get some knowledgeable person to answer that. Personally I'd keep it in case, like I said, you want to use the dock's lineout or the headphone out.
post #26 of 2981
Cool, this should be pretty sweet. You. Are. Amazing.!! Thanks
post #27 of 2981
Nevermind, I figured it out...thanks again!
post #28 of 2981
@ joneeboi:
just curious, one wire go to capacitor and the other one go to ... ?! and what the capacitor that you've used looks like ?
post #29 of 2981
Sure, if all is sucessfull I will post a tutorial!
post #30 of 2981
Deleted !!!
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