Need help with constructing a mini-mini cable
Feb 23, 2003 at 7:40 PM Thread Starter Post #1 of 9

GetCool

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Hello all,

I've been lurking around on these forums for some time now, and I finally decided to join. I've gotten a lot of good info in here just by searching and reading threads; there are some really knowledgeable people in here.

With that said, here's my first question. I need an approximately three foot long mini to mini cable, and I've decided to make one. I ordered 3 feet of Homegrown Super Silver Braid cable and 2 Switchcraft mini plugs. Here's where I need help -

1. I have no solder readily available, so I have to buy some. Which kind of solder would be the best for this project? I've read that a lot of people here like WBT 4% silver solder, as well as Cardas eutectic solder. Are either of these good choices?

2. My soldering skills are not fantastic. Actually, I've only ever soldered about three times in my life, and it was never very complex (except when I soldered a mod chip to a PlayStation, but that took me a very long time to do and I had a little help). How difficult will soldering these wires to the plugs be? I can't imagine it being that difficult, but if there is anything I should know, please tell me.

3. When I have the plugs sitting in front of me, will it be pretty easy to figure out where to solder what? I know I do L, R and ground, but will this be straightforward? Or will I only have to worry about soldering the same wire to the same contact on both ends?

4. I will be using this cable to attach an amp to my computer sound card, so it will be running close to power cables and possibly computer monitors. Do I need any sort of special shielding, or is the braid enough? If not, what kind of shielding would you use?

This is my first DIY project so forgive me if I sould like a newbie (because I am). I greatly appreciate any help you can give me.
 
Feb 23, 2003 at 9:35 PM Post #2 of 9
Quote:

1. I have no solder readily available, so I have to buy some. Which kind of solder would be the best for this project? I've read that a lot of people here like WBT 4% silver solder, as well as Cardas eutectic solder. Are either of these good choices?


I use Kester 44 solder. Are you planning on building other things as many times you have to buy the solder in rolls of .5 to 1 lb.
Quote:

2. My soldering skills are not fantastic. Actually, I've only ever soldered about three times in my life, and it was never very complex (except when I soldered a mod chip to a PlayStation, but that took me a very long time to do and I had a little help). How difficult will soldering these wires to the plugs be? I can't imagine it being that difficult, but if there is anything I should know, please tell me.


You will be soldering a total of 6 joints. Very simple.
Quote:

3. When I have the plugs sitting in front of me, will it be pretty easy to figure out where to solder what? I know I do L, R and ground, but will this be straightforward? Or will I only have to worry about soldering the same wire to the same contact on both ends?


Yes you will, you should get a multi meter to test continuity.

Tip - Left

Ring - Right

Sleeve - Ground
Quote:

4. I will be using this cable to attach an amp to my computer sound card, so it will be running close to power cables and possibly computer monitors. Do I need any sort of special shielding, or is the braid enough? If not, what kind of shielding would you use?


The braid acts as it's own shielding to a certain extent. Homegrown's site discusses this I believe.
 
Feb 23, 2003 at 10:58 PM Post #3 of 9
Thanks, JMT.

About the solder: when you say "Kester 44" do you mean the 63/37 or the 60/40? Any particular reason you use that solder? I asked about the WBT solder because I can get it in 10 gram packs instead of large spools only, and I don't plan on doing many soldering projects anytime soon. Would this 4% Ag solder be a good choice, do you think? I also kind of thought that the more silver content the better, since I'm working with silver wiring and all. But, of course, I don't entirely know what I'm talking about either.

Also, you're right about the braiding; from the bottom of the FAQ page on Homegrown's site:

Quote:

Are your cables shielded?

Homegrown Audio Co. cables are unshielded by design. Both careful auditioning and objective measurement have taught us that tremendous interactions occur between the signal carrying portions of a cable and the overlying metallic shield that is utilized in most cable designs. External shielding is the easiest way to prevent noise propagation, but this technique is clearly not the best approach when trying to optimize such sonic characteristics as speed, openness, and depth of presentation. Our proprietary cable designs have been optimized to deliver excellent rf/emi noise resitance without the use of external shielding... its all in the braid!


 
Feb 24, 2003 at 6:31 AM Post #4 of 9
Get the 63/37, or the 62/36/2 (tin/lead/silver). The only reason to get 60/40 is to save a few bucks, and it just isn't worth it. Eutectic blends increase your likelihood of success, and getting it right the first tiem is one of your worries, right?

Why Kester 44? Because it's readily available everywhere, the price is good, and it works fine. The high-end solders you mention will work, too, but there are only a few places to get them and they're pretty expensive.

As for whether it matters if you use solder with high silver content, ahhh....that's really sketchy. You're talking about the difference of a couple of percent relative to the 62/36/2 eutectic blend, and you lose the eutectic feature. Also, the more silver in the wire, the higher the temp you need to melt it. So, you're talking about wire that needs a lot of time to get heated and doesn't flow or harden as readily once it's melted vs. stuff that melts and flows easily, and hardens instantly. Which is more likely to give a solid joint in the hands of a newbie?

And as for buying solder just a few ounces at a time, obviously you end up paying a lot more per ounce vs. buying it by the half pound. But if you really only want 10 ounces, you can get Kester solders 10 ounces at a time, too. They sell tubes with a hole in the end and the wire coiled up inside. Much more convenient than a raw coil of wire, and it's still a lot cheaper. (Around $1 Canadian.) Also, that stuff you're linking to is 80 mils thick. I think you'll find that 20 to 30 mil wire is much easier to use.
 
Feb 24, 2003 at 9:19 AM Post #5 of 9
Thanks for the info, tangent. I went ahead and picked up some Kester 63/37 already. I should be getting my cable over the next couple of days and then I'll give it a try.
 
Mar 1, 2003 at 7:44 PM Post #7 of 9
There are many views to cable and connectors. What I use is Canare quad mic cable for my headphone extension cable and the mini version of the same cable for ICs. Neutrik mini plugs and good kester 44 solder. I try to keep my eye on the prize, good music and well made components. The most expensive cable and connectors matter little without skillful soldering procedures. In my case thank goodness that comes with a bit of practice. Relax and enjoy the music.
 
Mar 2, 2003 at 5:11 AM Post #9 of 9
This is from the Markertek website:

Star Quad 4-Conductor Microphone Cable

$0.42 per foot and the mini version is listed on the same page. Choose the color you like. This is just what I use. I like it because it's not delicate and stands up to being handled. Always make sure you have a good connection with your soldering, no bridges, always physical contact with the terminal.

Relax, don't obsess with what you don't have. As the wise man says, 'if it sounds good, it is good'.
 

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