Since there are many people interested in photograhy here I thought I'd post it. Don't know who of you develop their own films but I recently switched from T-max developer to HC-110. I use Kodak Tri-X 400 mostly.
First thing I noticed was my grain to be less and more deliquate negatives as a result.
They also stated that the new Tri-X film requirs a longer developing time as indicated on the bottle. Indicated is 3 3/4 min. and required is 6-7 min. Gonna try it tonight to see the result of that. Found them a tad underdeveloped before when you look at the numbers on the side of the film. This has been confirmed by Kodak btw.
Got curious and searched the internet for some facts to confirm my impressions. I stumbled upon quite an interesting read so I thought I'd share with who is interested in this matter.

Here's the link:

http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/

Thanks for the link Contrastique.

And for lazy people try this.

Hey, lay off. I was just reminiscing the other day when I found an old developing tank at a thrift store. There was something more magical about developing your own film. Of course, it was sort of a pain in the ass. I hated the threat of scratches and spots when it was drying.

Magical indeed yes. I'm waiting for them to finish their "cleaningbath" at this very moment. And then, comes the surprise...I love it! I extra wash them in the end with agapon and a clean like mineral water so no problems with drying spots.
Nice link btw, Blessinx. Haven't seen that software before.

Back when I was involved with still photography, black & white, was my passion. HC-110 was one of a couple of my favorite film developers. I also at the time used HC-110 replenisher as a developer when “push” processing Tri-X to extreme levels. So it was with pleasant memories that I read the article that you have linked.

The other film developer I liked to use was Agfa Rodinal. I don’t know if you can still get it, since Agfa folded. Although I know there are some “public domain” versions of Rodinal if you want to mix it yourself from scratch. . . . . . sure do miss Agfa, Portriga Rapid was my favorite paper to print with.

The nice thing about both developers is that your can dilute them to alter the results in subtle ways.

By the way, Contrastique, I’ve gone to your Photo webpage and was very impressed with your work.

- augustwest

Thanx! Rodinal is still available from a company in Germany but I don't know for how long. Forgot the name of the company in question though.

I am gonna stick with this developer for sure. The negs look great. Longer development is what they needed to make them perfect. Real cool. Second load is rinsing right now. Hope they look as good, T-Max 100 this time.

Have never heard of Portriga Rapid before. Is it an older kind of paper? Is it RC or Fiber based? Is it multigrade?

Contrastique -

I have never used the T-Max series of films, and have only used the traditional Tri-X, Plus-X & Pan-X. My life in photography was winding down as the T-Max films were being introduced. In fact I remember picking up a T-Max data sheet at a camera shop in Scotland, while on a visit there, thinking I'd give the new film stock a try, but never did.

The Portriga Rapid paper is/was a fiber based "graded" paper. Agfa had marketed as a "portrait" paper, but it was so much more. It was a warmish, olive black type paper. I used to use a chemistry trick to make it slightly less warm and heighten the tonal naunce of it. I loved the richness and the tonal subtly of it, to the point that I don't know if I would want to print with anything else. But I guess now I would have no choice, if I were still printing. . . . I used to print for gallery shows, and make fine art prints for photograpers, wanting to exhibit their work professionally.


- augustwest

Sounds like beautiful paper. It's too bad Agfa doesn't excist like that anymore. You must have had a nice profession!
The T-Max came out all purple, like the films were expired or have been kept too warm. Never had it before when developing myself. Had been bouht just before I went on holiday at were I work and I know we don't keep them too warm there. Little akward.
I normally use Tri-X as well. Beautiful film with a great tonal reach.
Thanx for your posting here. Reading yours was interesting as well!

Bump. I hate to see a good thread go to waste.

This thread and the HC-110 reference had very little meaning to me three weeks ago. Now it's part of my Head-Fi data gold mine.

After reading this as well as other Photo-Fi threads, I finally went off the deep end. I picked up a Jobo film and paper processor off ebay. I've been nailed by the "analog" B/W bug, so in the very near future I will definitely have a very strong need for HC-110.
Contrastique, thank you for the tip. augustwest, I'll also look into the Rodinal.

I have also acquired a large cache of B/W paper (Kodak Panalure, Kodabrome, Poly Contrast and some Poly Max), about 1500 sheets of 8x10 and ~400 sheets of 16x20, mostly in unopened packages. The price was right -- free, the catch is its ten years old. Does anybody know if this stuff is still usable? Assuming it's been stored in a dry, fairly stable environment.

Thank you all for your continued support.
Actually, "I hate you Head-Fi!"

Hey Terry,
Good on ya mate! Hope you'll have loads of fun with it!
Cool you could pick up so much paper for free. I don't know though if it'll still be properly. 10 yrs is a long time. I wouldn't expect much from it. But just give it a go, you'll soon find out whether the paper is still good or not.
What kind of developer will you be using for your paper?

Quote:



Well...I was going to ask you.
Just kidding.
I am on the steep part of the B/W learning curve so I will just stick with the Kodak recommendations, for B/W Paper. Probably Dektol or PolyMax. Maybe later I might get into the Darkroom Cookbook, DIY-stuff.

I pretty much stick to D-76, or Microphen for push processing. Ilford only sells Microphen in 1L packages now, though

Quote:



Ansel used HC-110, so if it's good enough for him it's good enough for me.
I think a pre-mixed developer, the HC-110, with a 2-year shelf life seems like a good idea, less stuff to mess with.