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Bass Boost CMoy Problems - Page 2
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- xluben
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Originally Posted by Pars
However, looking at how bass boost is implemented in a PPA, it would appear that you might want to jumper R5 (not really necessary to remove if it is a low value <100 ohms, up to you) and put the bass boost in series with R4, between R4 and the output. Not sure if this will work any better or not, but I guess its wortha shot.
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- Pars
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- blackinches
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Okay, so I also built a cmoy amp with bass boost according to the advice on the other thread that xluben posted at, and i put in r7/c7 in parallel in the place where r5 is on the original cmoy schematic. its on a home etched pcb laid out in eagle, and works perfectly except when bass boost is on. when i close the switch and it shorts r7 and c7 turning off bass boost it works great, but when i open the switch all i can hear is massive staticy distortion. i'm using .068uf caps and 24k resistors for the bass boost portion of the circuit. i'm not sure how it should be put in the circuit, but how i've got it is clearly wrong. i guess i'll try putting it in series with r4.
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Edit: Since Pars says he still doesn't understand, here's a mathematical explanation.
The ideal gain of a non-inverting opamp configuration, using the cMoy component naming conventions is:
| Av = 1 + R4/R3 |
-For AC circuit analysis, the impedance of a capacitor is modeled as: 1/(jwC), where w = 2*pi*frequency
-Two impedances in parallel = (Z1)(Z2)/(Z1 + Z2)
Therefore, using xluben's naming convention, the resulting theoretical gain is:
| Abb = 1 + [R4 + (R7*(1/(j*w*C7)))/(R7 + (1/(j*w*C7)))]/R3 |

As you can see, bass frequencies are boosted.
--JDS
- Pars
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Edit: Since Pars says he still doesn't understand, here's a mathematical explanation.
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base on the scheme above, i followed that scheme and make my own drawing:
Left
http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/jmwreck/1-2.jpg
Right
http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/jmwreck/2-2.jpg
now the problem is, i dont know why it doesnt make any changes when i turn it on/off.
questions are:
1. is the original schematic (1st image) correct for bass boost?
2. are my own schemes (2nd & 3rd image) correct?
3. did i burn or damaged my "bass boost" resistor and cap?
4. it is still working perfectly right now, even with the bass boost switch is on/off, its just that it doesnt make any changes when i select it. if it was damaged (#3), does the amp still work?
5. as you can see, the values in the original bass boost circuit, especially the cap is different from the one i did? I know the fact that the higher its values, the lesser it cuts off the low frequency. but at least i can hear difference because of it, am i correct?
thanks :D
Edited by jmwreck - 9/24/11 at 4:13am
bump
- Fred_fred2004
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I'd like to see the whole circuit before commenting, do you have a picture
cheers
- Fred_fred2004
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That will work, I use a higher value resistor say 33-39K but the principles the same, experiment with the values useing AMB's bass boost calculator
cheers
YUP, I know it will but it doesn't affect the sound in my case, I have tried using different headphones and putting the toggle to switch the input caps from different values, still no effect :D
- Fred_fred2004
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If its not affecting the sound I'd double check your wiring, its easy to make a mistake and keep missing it :-)
good luck
yup, maybe on my next build, but now, im quite satisfied, it really has a lot of bass, I have tried it on my friends stock Iphones pads, the bass is drowning the entire sound and ask me if there is any way to decrease it. but in my headphones, I have been using the philips 250 and sony ex50, the overall mix was great. so I guess it all depends on the headphones used for now -- on this build.
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