With ~4 feet of canare... holy cow the sub-bass is throbbing, and it really extends. Even more so than before. I need to cut about 4-5 db below 70Hz!!

That recession from 300-900Hz?... Gone, loud and clear... You just have to cut the bass to hear it. LOL

**edit**
Oops... I forgot to re-plug the little holes left vacant when I removed the jumper wire.

Much better now. Still bass heavy like before, but not as much lower midrange recession. Here are some pics...

Remove the earpads


Look closely and you can see some slotted openings running around the perimeter.


Use a screwdriver and gently pry here...


Work your way around and eventually the mounting ring will unsnap.



Tap on th eearcup to get the driver baffle to fall off.


Heres the backside of the driver. That felt ring places back pressure on the driver and damps cone motion. Removing it results in some serious bass, flabby and out of control IMHO.


Heres the front of the driver.



Soldering the TRS...


inside the earcup, nothing special, just a bunch of wires to rip out and discard.


Someone at BD spent a lot of time designing and assembling this little PCB, only to have it thrown away. LOL


Heres the finished product. I did the Y cord, I dont really like one sided cords, and canare star quad is a little heavy to have pulling on one side. I kept the OEM strain relief on the left earcup. For the right side, I used some scrap star quad jacket.




Hope someone find this useful...
Garrett

**edit**
kewords added for search hits.
DT770 mods mod recable DT770-80 beyer beyerdynamic DT770

Hi, I'm cutting the bass with my Darth Beyers, about 4-7 db depending on the situation. I never thought that I would need to lower the bass in headphones . I'm repeating myself in various threads, but I have to say it again: these cans respond very well to equalization.
You can try to raise the mids too with rock music, with a hump in lower mids for roaring guitars

Cool! How did you take apart the cups and drivers? Did you replace the middle cable between the drivers with starquad too?

OP edited.

Great tutorial, kramer

Im willing to bet you can tune the bass by adding layers of felt or masking tape around the white OEM ring...

One things for sure, removing it makes the bass flabby, loose and overwhelming. Im willing to bet adding to it does the opposite...

Highly tune-able cans, and theyre easy to take apart.

carlosgp: My understanding is that the darths leave the jumper wire holes open. That might be the source of your bass-excess. I found mine unlistenable with those holes unplugged.

Garrett

Any difference, sound wise?. Well, you already mention some. TIA

I don't really understand what do you mean with "jumper wire holes". Can you explain a little more? Thanks!

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He has woody darth beyers, so he probably doesn't have jumper wire holes.

On the original cups, there are holes in the cups that allowed wires to come out of one cup, thread through the headband, and pop into the other cup. those holes would be the jumper wire holes. in other words, they act as bass ports now that there are no jumper wires in the way, hehe.

Thanks, Jahn. Yes, I don't have any hole in my smooth, inmaculate cups. Thanks God! . I understand that if you leave the holes open the bass is stronger? Must be crazy

Nice one Kramer - My DT's are going to be my next recable project Do the pads just 'snap off'?

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The pads actually "peel off" - there is a rubber ring that is tucked over a metal ridge, you just lift a part off and pop the pad off.

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The pads just stretch off. If you gently tug/pull they will come off easily.

Garrett

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Ah! - i was wondering - Cheers Jahn/Kramer!

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This is the "jumper wire" hole I was referring to... Is it plugged internally on the Darths ? This is the hole I forgot to plug and the bass was an awful mess. I just used multiple layers of electrical tape and stuck it on the outside. I'll go back in and seal it with some plastic epoxy later.

Hmm... plugging the OEM hole (bass port) might help tame the bass further.??

Gawd those cans are stunning!!