Did anyone here win the non functioning T20v1

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They were when I started putting things back together. I wasn't really paying attention to them so they may have shifted. I can't quite tell looking though the vents. They seemed to be held in place pretty well by little pins.

Edit: I just remeasured the HP-1. The YH-100 extends around 10Hz lower, so I was just misremembering the performance of the HP-1.

you guys(and gals?) post too damn much!

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Despite the pins, I've managed to mess up my damping strips on more than one occasion. It's tough to see whether they've moved. Try using a good flashlight and a hatpin and check for gaps.

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Any difference in the sound between the two?


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No gals that I know of. -=Germania=- posted here once, and only to announce she was going to wash her Stax, or something.

Orthos, like Esau, are hairy. 'Stats are smooth.

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So here is the YHD-3 next to the HP-3. And remember how small the HP-3 is!


DISASSEMBLY:
Opening the YHD-3 cups was a giant pain. Because at first you think, ahh this is just like a HP-3 and procede to try and push open those clips....until you stupidly snap 3 of them like me.....

So after messing up most of it...here is my guide to open them (if anyone manages to find another).
1) Locate the three clips. And insert a small flathead precision screwdriver VERTICALLY into each clip and it should move them slightly. You HAVE to push all the way down vertically and only apply a v.small levering force.
If you dont push down all the way...you snap the clips.

2)Once you have done this, the baffle wont budge an inch....because Yamaha has stupidly glued the baffle on. Ok so you can approach this in different ways. But here is my way:
Use a hobby knife to make a small incision at the baffle/cup joint around where a clip would be.
Push a flathead pricision screwdriver in and gently lever. This should break the glue at that point. Then from there, use two flathead precision screw drivers to alternately gently lever the baffle off.

To reattach, you just push the baffle and push the clips back in gently.
If I had this guide....It would have been a hell of a lot easier. and the only downside would be a small incision.
Unfortunately cracking the glue means the baffle never seems to seal to the cup perfectly any more. I will probably keep some bluetak in the interface.

BITS N BOBS:


Note the driver number: 4559, which is curiously different than the YHE-50...any ideas?

The baffles needed a good clean from rotting gluey/sponge goop.
There is a nice rubber gasket for the driver. But there are some nasty holes underneath it...that you might wanna seal with something (I used blutak)

It might be worth noting the cable is some v.thin crappy looking thing...the ground wire doesnt even seem to have its own sheathing.....Maybe all the YHD's are like this.

My current rough damping scheme is:
Driver>moorbrook disc> moorbrook donut> moorbrook lining cup/vents > cup .

Its worth noting that the cup isnt really entirely open backed, its got the typical Yamaha treble reflector at the ball joint.

You will need some kinda pads for it, im temporarily using my flat worn out HP-50 pads untill I can find something.

The sound?
Well damping changes things ofc, and my damping is already getting rather heavy. With pads on this thing is very bassy. If your the kind to keep it underdamped and stick on reflex dots, you could have a bass MONSTER, but I dont like said method...

I love the sound though. After damping so much, the soundstage isnt thaaat big any more and its rather HP-50esque (which to me is a great thing) with a twist.

Now to find some pads....

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Wow, you really jumped right in! Good work! Nice to hear you've already started to solve the bass problem. The soldering skills will come in time. Practice on some electronics that someone's throwing away (NOT a TV set!). Sounds like you need to buy some felt for further experiments. Keep up the enthusiasm, resist the urge to spend any more than pocket change, borrow a good camera, take photos... and good luck!


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Yes. The gobbledygook doesn't matter if you can get the sound you want. Don't slip into the headphone agoraphobia of Not Wanting To Know, though. Plug that thing right into that xcan (whatever that is) and listen like a man! Think hairy!


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Good idea, and you really took one for the team in the process of writing this very useful tutorial. Post it on the Wiki-P immediately.

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F2D's driver sez 4698. The 4 could mean 1984 manufacture or the numbers could simply be serial numbers.

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True, and the holes are kinda small. Wire mesh would have been ideal, but using a ball joint instead of a yoke does necessarily reflect some backwave. Still, we have to give Yamaha credit-- this is their first headphone, aside from the lofty YH-1K, that even acknowledges that the driver inside is a dipole! The cup layout is not unlike that of the hated-by-some ATH-2.


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I was wondering about that. Have you got a Sennheiser HD 414 pad around, by chance? or an equivalent? Try that. Is it possible to tell whether the original YHD-3 pad was just naked foam or cloth-over-foam?

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offtopic but anyone know what happened to eichmann? their website is non-resolvable.......

anybody spot any orthos?? ,dr strangelove brought a monoblock beast and some cool electrets ..dB

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I should do comparison tests before I post from memory. The YH-100 are definitely bassier. It's very noticeable switching back and forth, even when I don't change the volume so the HP-1 is being played at high SPLs. The YH-100 isn't flat the way I have it damped, but I do like the sound. The bass doesn't overwhelm the mids. I'm not a big fan of a lot of treble. I've listened to Paganini's Caprice No. 24, the last movement of Faure's Piano Quintet No. 2 Op. 115, the 3rd movement of Beethoven's String Quartet Op. 74 "Harp", and various soprano arias. The treble is there and not overwhelmed.

Edit: I just took apart the right cup to check the felt damping the vents because I thought I could see a little blue tack though the vents. While the felt is in place, it's not tall enough to completely damp the vents. With the felt pushed down into the back of the cup, it only covers about half of the vent. I don't have any felt that's close to as dense as the stock felt so I'm going to have to figure out something to put under it to keep it from going all the way to the back of the cup.

Don, I can see orthos sitting on the table, but not pics of someone listening to them. We'll be having a meet with a lot of orthos next month.

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I think I could see six pairs at the round table...

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spread the love , my camera spent most of the time in my bag - hopefully others will post - I did get Dev with the HP50As on his head. ( one of many times )

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can you guess who's table


..dB

I plugged up all of the holes around the sides of the cups to seal in the bass on my EM6721 which helped, but now there's a slight channel imbalance I have to deal with, which means I have to open them up again. Rats. The sound seems to also have gotten sharper and less diffuse, so there's less papery veil now.

I know how you feel with the channel imbalance, my left cup has perfect amount of bass right down to 20hz, right channel barely has any even at 50hz . I've given up trying to fix it as I've pinpointed it to being my cups that are falling apart LOL, which will have to wait to be replaced for the time being.

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another simple mod, add some extra damping (nippon tape) on the driver...and guess what, now it sound enjoyable more (direct from my ipod nano)...rich sound, more binaural, more impact, sparkling treble yet not harsh or piercing, slamming fast bass (not bassy or bloated one) & good midrange...this cans are good at metal/rock too, it's very good on the instrument....almost pass on my K400, couldn't believe if i had not try it for my self...
Ortho's rock !!!

here's the picts...
http://imageshare.web.id/images/yfbm...c7tfyzy4it.jpg
http://imageshare.web.id/images/gsfo...2d3g5hstk2.jpg
http://imageshare.web.id/images/wj1bxi2a12d1vzqo585.jpg

btw who's the lucky one that had won this T20v1 ?
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