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Orthodynamic Roundup
Jun 3, 2010 at 6:37 PM Post #14,508 of 27,141
It came reterminated with a nice looking Switchcraft 1/4" jack, which could mean it's not the problem, or could mean it wasn't done well.  I opened it up and the solder joints are all intact.  I'll open them up and take some pics. 
 
I love how they look, they actually look better when wearing them which is unusual.  They have a low profile along with the gorge metal rods.  I'm going to get so many lady friends
 
I think this picture sums up my entry into the ortho modding world...
 

 
Jun 3, 2010 at 9:29 PM Post #14,509 of 27,141
Hey, if worst comes to worst, check with BMF to see if he has a T20v1 driver left. You'll probably have to deal with a slight channel imbalance due to unmatched drivers, but it's better than monoaural -- Oh, and it'll prepare you for any SFI adventures that loom ahead.
 
Haha, this is making me feel better about losing it...not by a lot, but it's helping.
 
Jun 4, 2010 at 1:18 AM Post #14,510 of 27,141
In the meantime, check all the obvious stuff first: clean the plug, check to make sure there are no tricky shorts in the plug wiring due to solder bridges or stray wire strands, wiggle everything at least once more, then get out the ohmmeter and test continuity in the cabling, etc etc.
 
Jun 6, 2010 at 7:34 PM Post #14,511 of 27,141
Update on the T20v1's and took some pics.  the sound came back into the right driver when I took the back off, and I noticed it would cut in and out if I pushed on the back of the cups while they are on.  I wiggled the wire, but the sound didn't come back, then pushed on the soldering for the black wire, and this is where the loose connection seems to be.  The black wire seems securely soldered, but pushing on the actual metal bracket the black wire is soldered to brings the sound in and out.  Could the rust on here be causing it?  It seemed to be the silver piece itself though that brought the connection back when pushing on it, not the wire or soldering. 
 
The sound is fantastic!  Very balanced with nothing but the foam you see here.  They sound similar to my dampened T10.  Slight echo or muffled type chamber sound, but not too bad.  And the soundstage seems to be bigger than the T10, because of the bigger pads I guess.  
 

 

 
 

 

 
Jun 6, 2010 at 8:39 PM Post #14,512 of 27,141
Been listening to my Wharfedale Zebrawoods with the new Cavalli Audio Solid state amplifier.. Gotto say..this headphone is magical. Shy of the LCD-2 nothing can stand in its wake...well perhaps the TPs..but its been so long since i heard my TPs..can't wait to have a one on one comparo.
 
Jun 6, 2010 at 9:00 PM Post #14,514 of 27,141
Could you elaborate a bit more? Does pushing on the back of the driver cut out the signal or bring it back? Are you pushing on the metal tab and into the driver, or the area where the wire is soldered on to the metal tab? From your description, it seems that the solder connection between the wire and the metal tab is not the culprit, but if the driver looses signal depends on whether you are applying pressure to its back, it seems that the contact between the diaphragm and the metal tab might be loose.
 
Jun 6, 2010 at 9:11 PM Post #14,515 of 27,141
yeah I was pushing on the actual metal tab, and that's the only thing that brought the connection in and out.  I pulled very lightly on the black wire and the solder seems intact, both visually and from resisting my gentle pull.  I pushed on the top of the metal tab, where the black wire is soldered, and putting a little force on this is what brought the connection in and out.  Does it screw in?  Seems like the connection between the metal tab and driver must be the culprit. 
 
So if I remove the 4 screws into the back of the magnet (as seen in the 3rd picture from the top in the above 4 pictures) and pull the plastic housing off, I won't damage anything?  I'm not sure what to expect...
 
ps. thanks!
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Jun 6, 2010 at 9:52 PM Post #14,516 of 27,141
 
check out an old post by scompton: [size=medium]http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/111193/orthodynamic-roundup/690#post_3137184 [/size]
It doesn't seem like you will damage anything, but the magnets will shift around. But be careful with it, it seems that the metal tab is part of a ring that encircles the diaphragm, if it really is a loose contact, I'd want to keep them sandwiched together.
 
Jun 7, 2010 at 12:23 PM Post #14,517 of 27,141
RD
 
What you are describing is a short or open circuit between the rings and the diaphragm.  Those joints are ugly and I wouldn't surprised if there is corrosion that is pricked through the diaphragm or lifted the rings enough to open the circuit.  DeOxit carefully applied will clean it up.  I've had both, one way closes the open connection and the other opens the short.  No way to tell which you have without opening them up... 
 
Unfortunately, I do not have a spare T20v1 driver, but a T10 diaphragm.  It would be bass heavier and give you a channel imbalance that would have to be corrected with a resistor in the plug.  A little thicker layer of felt on the T10 side would bring them even acoustically. 
 
Jun 8, 2010 at 2:12 AM Post #14,518 of 27,141
I'm trying to figure out a way to make this thread more portable.  I normally have very limited web access and would like to have a non-web-based version I can pore over on my personal machine.
 
There are 968 pages.  Rather than reinvent the wheel, has anyone already saved a version (pdf or .doc, ie), or has anyone found a better solution?
 
 
Jun 8, 2010 at 4:06 AM Post #14,519 of 27,141
I can't wait to put together my own Orthos! I hope my design and dampening ideas work.
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Jun 8, 2010 at 4:28 AM Post #14,520 of 27,141
Well, the NADs are growing on me. The details they present are beyond anything I have heard.
Its getting hard to go back to my beloved yammies. :frowning2:
 
The NADs do have a rather sharp peak between 3.5-4k. Anyone got an idea how I go about taming it.?
Mine aren't the bass heavy type so I don't think the usual NAD schemes would work that well.
 
 
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