damn if I miss this =P

I've been waiting on the PCB's since they were first announced I'm definitely in when this goes thru. I check the forum everyday just waiting for the GB.

Don't screw up the SMD. I built one after making a cMoy and found it very easy to build. Many people on here have started with the Mini3 also so it shouldn't be too difficult for beginners. GL.

I apologize if I missed it, but is there a tentative time frame of when the GB will be on? I only check this site every now and then so I don't want to miss it.

As Germania stated, the satisfaction of using something you built yourself is worth it alone. Saving a bit of cash is just a bonus.

Just my recabled SR60s...

Quote: Originally Posted by adamus Heres my 3 hr mini millet, making lovely sound. I used 470uf pana fc caps, and wima mkp10 330nf film caps. good bass, lovely valvey mids, slightly recessed highs which i expect to develop with a bit of burn in. Can you post pics of the...

Here another version of it.

+1 on the Harbor Freight DMM. I picked it up for like $2 when they had a weekend sale and I haven't needed anything more.

Is this the same as the Millett Hybrid Max?

Whoa... will there be a GB for this board? I'm about to start my Millett Max but it'd be nice to have something better than a cMoy at work =D

I use the Weller WLC100. Got it for $40 + a new tip for ~$4. So far I've made cables, recabled my SR60's and the amps in my sig. Bought it from a local Fry's.

Quote: Originally Posted by Navyblue Thanks guys. Ok, it seems that the Mini3 will not be obviously better than the D2, if at all, I guess I don't need to consider the hassle of DIY. FWIW, having just built one of these on Friday, the Mini^3 is a very straightforward build...

Quote: Originally Posted by hockeyb213 what about amb? Does anyone think they have good stuff? AMB has great offerings, but none of which are tube amps. Look into the Millett Hybrid Max. Relatively cheap and fairly low difficulty. Maybe wait for the SOHA II?

Quote: Originally Posted by Fetou I had the HD280's as my first good headphones, loved them. But really, after you go to a new pair, you will realize those are the most uncomfortable mega-clamp unbearable headphones in the world :P Hahaha, +1! I much prefer my SR60 in terms of...

^Sweet. I just built mine too. Looks pretty much identical but with a blue LED.

^Damn. Where can I buy some of that puddy stuff to stick on the back of the drivers? Also, is adding a 75ohm resistor to the signal lines worth it? I just recabled my SR60's and JUST read about this mod. D'oh!

Check your R1 value. Nothing should be getting hot at all. Also, if you haven't already, clean it with some 99% alcohol.

Sounds good, that's what I was thinking. Thanks for the help.

Which side on the drivers is the signal? Both sides have blue on the left side and each have different color right side. From another thread I've read said left is positive and right is negative. So does positive or negative side carry signal? Thanks.

Oddly enough, reflowing the solder on the output pins on the pot fixed it. Thanks for the tip!

Is there some sort of burn in time for the Alps pot that's in the Mini^3? The difference between left and right channel is very apparent it seems at any volume level. Is there something I could have done wrong that could cause this? Or should I just order another Alps pot and hope for the best...

Well, that's a relief. I was thinking they were because looking at this, thye had +'s and -'s on some of the positions. Thanks for your help

How can I determine which is the + and - on the 0.1uF capacitors for C4, C6, C7+, C7-, C8+, C8-? I got the parts from Mouser. They're little yellow caps but both legs are the same length and there are no markings on them to indicate which is + and which is -. Any way I can figure this out with...