C34, C35, C36, C37 are capacitors, which value i don't know and are hard to solder. Rest is fine.

No, just to prevent the boom at start or when switching other devices in the room and the 50/60 Hz humm from the woofer will be almost gone.

You almost made en total new amplifier so i am curious to what you did and how with pictures to show. You can share pictures in your replies by selecting the image button as shown with the red arrow and select an image on your pc :thumbsup:

There are dozens of threads on the net about rewiring and adjusting Z5500 systems to even work without a pod but i never found a usefull one so far. I even used a control pod bypass cable from Ebay but the sound is terrible and you lose the handy input modes like PLII movie and PLII music...

Pods are a gamble to fit your system. As far as i know there are three types of Z5500 with its own type of pods. The oldest types go from 000? to pid nr R199 and have rca plugs on the backside of the sub, then there are the pid nr R200-R635 for the systems with the opamps on the small preamp...

Did you have sound on all speakers before replacing the opamps? Is there no sound on front speakers on all inputs? Try the optical and/or coax inputs. As far as i know, all the Z5500 have opamps in the sub. On newer systems they are on the mainboard in the sub and for older systems they are on...

Hey Ramachandra, welcome back again :L3000:

Hi all, Today i installed the copper shield in my fully modded system and it works great! Then i started experimenting with the steel shield for the toroid but while doing so and with loosening the toroid i discovered that by turning it clockwise or counterclockwise, i could change the 50/60...

Back again, Today i made a cylindrical 1.5mm steel cover to shield the magnetic field coming from the toroidal transformer and it works perfectly! No matter how close the toroid is to the pcb, there is no noticable 50/60Hz humming. The red copper schield is installed now also and blocks all...

Back again, Rotating the main board is succesfull with less hissing now. The signal wires and dc wires are mostly seperated and twisted and where not they are aligned perpendicular to eachother. The 50/60Hz hum from the subwoofer driver is still there but i have made a red copper shield which...

Hi all. I haven't been active on this forum for a while now but still own three Z5500 units, two older types and one new type. For those of you who want to completely modify the older type Z5500 and want to get rid of the big thump/boom/pop when switching other devices in the house, hereby a...

Okay Ramachandra and thanks for your advice. I used thermal pads  on the tda's and LM217T instead of the mica foil and thermal paste so this could be the problem with thermal shutdown. I've read about the thermal pads, performing less good than mica with thermal paste. I wil change the...

Hi All,   Ramachandra, My second modified Z5500 that i sold has been placed in a local pub in my hometown (i practice beer lifting over there)    The music performance is very good but there is one minor problem that i want to fix if possible. Due to the fact that the system has to...

Hi ya all   It's bin a while since my last visit here and i want to share an update with you about recapping the main capacitors. Because the leads are thicker than the originals i drilled bigger holes in the through hole connections. Now. after several months one of my Z5500's started with...

Back again!   I have bin bussy lately doing other things (3d designing) so not much time. About the Logitech Z5450; i sold the system before modding the control pod, so i won't be able to tell if that mod is necessary   In the meanwhile, i came across a Chinese website that sells inverted...

Ramachandra,   Here a new pic of the layout.   two Cirrus logic CS5351KZZ a/d converter http://datasheet.octopart.com/CS5351-KZZ-Cirrus-Logic-datasheet-55585.pdf a Cirrus Logic CS42526CQZ 6channel codec http://datasheet.octopart.com/CS42526-CQZ-Cirrus-Logic-datasheet-53453.pdf a Cirrus...

Thanks Ramachandra   First i want to point out that soldering the Denons onto the board needs a little bending of the leads to fit. The spacing is ok but the total diameter of the Denons is a bit more than the original caps so to avoid overlapping, you have to bend the leads a little to...

Finnished!   My third mod of the Z5450 is now complete and working. I did replace all the components i talked about before exept for the quad channel opamp. Not wanting to risk damaging the very tiny solder pads because i don't have the proper solder iron for this smd work, i left this...

Hey ya all   This week i started disassembling the Z5450. Looks less complicated so far with less components. For this sub, Logitech used two dual channel TI R4580i so the same as for the Z5500 and one other, a 14 pin quad channel NJM2060. The main filter capacitors are one Su'scon 4700uf...

Ready   Now my second Z5500 with older circuit board is working without any distortion!! Replaced the wired Elna for Denon capacitors with the Nichicon Muse KW 10000uF 50V which fit in the original solder pads and now all the wierd distortion on some high end recordings is gone completely...

Time flies.............   Did hard work this week and finalized my second Z5500 (new version) For the main capacitors i used Nichicon Muse KW 10000uF 50V and  Nichicon 50V 4700UF FW. In this system i used opa 1602aid and elna silmic 2 capacitors. The bolts are secured again and capacitors...

Modding my second Z5500,   After waiting for over a month, all parts have finally arrived. Before diagnosing my first mod, i want to mod the second Z5500 and hear if i get distortion on the high frequencies on some recordings (see my first mod). So far so good with a full mod (not the main...

Sorting things out.   After listening for two weeks now, the distortion on some high end recordings did not go away. The most recordings are great (98%)  but some female voices distort on all Chanels and only on 6ch direct with surround at max (why not on optical input?) After some thinking...

Gelo, do you know the voltage to the leds? On mine i have 7.3V which seems to much to me and that may be the cause of them not lighting up. Also still hesitating to remove the Zebra band from the display!

Ramachandra, thanks for your info about the schielding. As for today, the distortion is less than yesterday so i will be patient.   Gelo, the glass surface does not come off the display board so there is very little space to desolder/solder and i wil go for 3mm blue leds 3.5V to both sides...