I've had good luck with Dyson Audio...Reasonable builds, reasonably priced, IME. https://www.dysonaudio.com/collections/headphone/products/new-handmade-dyson-audio-gotham-hifiman-he400s-he400i-he1000i-oppo-pm-1-cable-2m -Mark in St. Louis

Wiring connection choice shouldn't matter much...This what Paul Joppa wrote over on the Bottlehead Forum, some time ago, regarding the wiring/ dot marking on the C-7X choke: "Yes there is some sense to twisting the wires (minimizing the current-loop area. The choke works by reducing the...

You can proceed exactly as you have written...either way works. I used the Triad but th Hammond 157M would be fine, as well. Also, you can replace either resistor with the choke. I chose to replace the 1st one (across along the back)....thus C-L-C-R-C...C-R-C-L-C is also fine. I opted for a...

I like the TS 7236 a lot as a 5998 alternative...especially since they can be picked up for around $25-30! Have you considered pairing it with a 6SN7?...Maybe a KR V-231 or a NU Black Glass? (need Garage1217 adapter, as well) I'm running a 7236/TS Mouse Ears combo myself on The Crack/SB (plus...

^^^Out of curiosity...Are you guys using the balanced/XLR input or the SE/RCA input? -Mark in St. Louis

There are Tung Sol 7236s on eBay for $35...I've got one of the paired with a Tung Sol Mouse Ears 6SN7, and it IMHO is quite a nice combo. -Mark in St. Louis

It should be noted that the LCX needs to be powered on for the SE Pass to function as intended. -Mark in St. Louis

That would be cool. I've got a 70's rocket and an 83 Reflector here. I also have a 50's Beckman/Amperex Gold Pin which I just rolled in...and...it might actually win on balance...still decent impact/dynamics...but with a little more sparkle on the upper end. I've been trying both amps with a...

Has anyone else tried rolling a Voshkod Rocket or Reflektor 6N23P, yet? I realize that Alex has been adamant about lack of need for tube rolling...but...I have gotten a pretty decent change in impact with the Soviet tubes (granted they are already burned in). I bought both the CTH and LCX, and...

It was mentioned earlier in the thread, or in the LCX specific thread, that the LCX must be powered on for the SE Pass to function properly. -Mark in St. Louis

What size are the caps in the SPS DAC3, and has anyone tried swapping films in? ...or perhaps bypassing the electrolytics with small films?? -Mark in St. Louis

Wire was just introduced as a test...not installed. Same bridge mentioned, as my body. If your buzz is different then the front right screw buzz...then we're probably dealing with something different. Let us know how it is after you fix the solder point. -Mark

One other thing to check...If I remember correctly, there is a single chassis ground spot. I have gotten intermittent ground hum, in the past, and was able to eliminate it by introducing an external ground wire (or checking it by touching the RCA and chassis simultaneously)...FWIW. -Mark

Confirmed...Signal to the RCA outputs with or without headphones plugged in on LD MKIII...volume pot controlled, as I believed. -Mark

Assuming the RCAs are active even with headphones plugged in...not positive on that front. I can test it out a little later today. -Mark

There is always the possibility that it was already compromised. The wires are thin, and they are packed in there tight. Personally, if I keep my modded MKIII (have been listening to the BHC Crack mainly), I might machine the bottom of the case off to make space and make it a lift off top...

First things first...You need to fix the broken wire @ the RCA. Is it the signal or ground wire? Either way...the outputs are active and volume pot controlled...you need that wire repaired. -Mark in St. Louis

Have either of you had your MKIII case open? Those transformer wires are REAL easy to pick/break when opening the case and pulling out the board. I ended up lengthening and re-routing mine on the exterior, thru a new hole in the rear/end cover. -Mark in St. Louis

Agreed...and really, a great way to go if on a budget...a great full sound IMHO. -Mark

Skip past trying all of those tubes, and go straight to one of these: -Mullard M8083 -6HM5/6HQ5 (no adapters needed) -or preferably C3Gs (adaptors needed) Save the $$$ a lot of us spent rolling far too many tubes...My 2c. -Mark in St. Louis

I answered your question in the other thread you posted in. -Mark in St. Louis

This is a pretty old thread...there is lots of info in the main Bottlehead Crack thread or over at the Crack forums...but...for the "big" tube there are Soviet era 6N5S and 6N13S...1950's to 1970's are decent and CHEAP. Some people like the 1950's 6N8S (or 1578 metal base) in the small/driver...

I'm not sure on the MKII as I have not had an issue on mine...but on the MKIII (mine included) the volume pot/wiring is often an issue. I (and many others) have replaced the pot with one of the eBay DACT21 units and a new wiring "loom". Having said that...the MKII doesn't have the crowded...

Got my dual-entry T90s back from Brandon today... As expected, excellent work...he even sent a nice surprise to "make up" for the long wait. No news here...but...excellent contributor to this forum and our hobby! Needless to say...recommended. -Mark in St. Louis

Don't bother him until he finishes modding my T90s! ;) (theoretically 1-2 weeks out) -Mark in St. Louis