Life's too short to be without a Realiser. John's Omega 96 will make you happy. And if you were smart enough to get an Realiser and John's preset, you'll be plenty smart enough to figure out how to operate an A16 which is no more complicated than operating a Window's PC IMHO. Enjoy.

He EQs the Novas to the Dusk and calls it a review! :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye::stuck_out_tongue::stuck_out_tongue:🤣😂

You'll need the card for Firmware, HPEQs, and PRIRs. They are very cheap, and since Smyth wants them formatted "FAT32" you'll need to buy 16 or 32 GB. Sandisk is probably one of the better ones. Make certain you back everything up, and do that every time the content on the card is revised.

Include the phrase "want to purchase Auro 3D license" in it.

There must be a stand alone IP camera stream viewer app which would enable you to point an IP camera, have it play on any Android device, mirroring the Smyth screen, and just continue to use the regular remote. Still a pain having the camera, but at least you get it on a tablet instead of using...

Well that does make it worthwhile. Does it require you input the numeric IP codes on the number pad on the main screen to invoke common remote commands each time you use those commands, or can you program the Centro app, so for example it can use the common commands like "back" or "left" or...

So there's no feedback from the A16 to the Centro app. Things like the volume level, number of the current preset, input being used, whether the preset is using the Atmos or the Auro 3D room, whether each speaker in the layout is outputting something, what's being used for input on the preset...

If I wanted to use an Ioad with the Centro app, what is the earliest IPAD version I could use? I see versions like IPAD 9 and earlier for l.t. $200 on ebay., Would one of those work? And after I loaded the Centro app, would I just connect the A16 to my network switch with a Cat 6 cable, put in...

I already do that. I have the Hue HD usb camera pointed at the screen, but what I would want is to actually just find a way to mirror the screen to an Android device without pointing a camera at the screen. Then you could still continue to use the supplied remote and see the results in real...

I would absolutely pay that for the finished product. What I would want to see is an app that mirrored what was on the A16's screen, so I could use my Kindle as my remote, but anything that could enable me to do anything would certainly be worth $10 to me. Just don't make it a Kickstarter.

If you are not adverse to spending a little more, I have the Toppin D 70 Pro which retails on Amazon for around $500. It will output a whopping 16 WPC into a 20 ohm load. It will give you all the power you could ever need to drive your Audeze's, Hifiman's, and Senns. It's distortion and...

I'm the same way. All my switching is done with my LG C1, which fills the bill perfectly. The only input to the A16 is for the HDMI EArc from the C1. I used to also input USB from the PC, but then I switched to Windows 11, and for some reason Smyth's usb driver will not load on it.

I wasn't aware of that. I opted for the ad-free version because I look at Prime as a Netflix equivalent, and I just wanted an ad-free environment for mental hygiene reasons. Using Brave as my browser, and watching 90 percent of my TV through Prime and Netflix has taken close to 95 percent of...

Try after a Who concert. 🤕

Think you are clipping digitally. All the correction and dsp the Realiser requires eats into your digital headroom. My suggestion is to turn off the LFE 10+ switch. There is another switch for bass level on the same page. Try setting it to +4 or +5 and see with that doesn't take care of most...