Redmetal1897
500+ Head-Fier
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2010
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The ZMF OFC is a nice upgrade, it tightens things up a touch, improves dynamics slightly and makes imaging a little more specific.
My go-to cable is the DanaCable Lazuli, which improves dynamic impact and slam very noticeably, makes the midrange more relaxed and natural sounding, and makes treble elegant and smooth. It also improves detail, separation and imaging without pushing them artificially forward. It’s a little pricey around $550-$650, but I’ve compared it head-to-head with the $2,400 DHC Prion 4 and the $1,200 KimberKable Axios and found it to be as good or better than both cables.
I also think the WyWires Red cable is very good and pretty reasonably priced... I think it’s like $329, IIRC.
Other than that, general tips: silver tends to have the sharpest transient attack, making it feel clean, sparkley and detailed. OCC copper is more transient-edge-neutral and tends to have a sweet sound and great depth layering characteristics. OFC tends to be the warmest and most relaxed sounding. If they are made well, any of the three metals can be equally great sounding.
The real variables you’re dealing with are resistance, inductance and capacitance. On a well-built cable, inductance and capacitance will be sorted out, so the one you really have to deal with is resistance. All headphone drivers require energy to move, and since they have mass, they also require energy to stop moving at the exact right time, so the resistance of your cable will effect the damping accuracy of your drivers. While the measurement science on this is still advancing, there is an observable difference in square wave response accuracy from cable to cable.
The ideal cable would be no cable at all, with a perfect translation between the voltage provided from your amp and the voltage from your driver. Since that is not really practical (at least not for anything other than the Sennheiser HE-1, which does the high voltage amplification AT the driver), you want to have as little resistance as possible from the cable.
There are two ways to do this: by increasing the effective width of the cable with a thicker gauge or more strands, or by decreasing the length of the cable. For example, a five foot cable will have half the resistance of a ten foot cable, so get the shortest length that is convenient for you (I usually do 2M for desktop, FWIW). The resistance also drops in half every 3 gauges, so an 18 gauge cable has half the resistance of a 21 gauge cable, for example (lower gauge = thicker and less resistance).
With a thicker cable you generally get more bass, more relaxed mids (less shout), smoother treble, better depth layering, etc.
Hopefully, that at least helps you understand what you are buying. IMO, the fact that cables have become a taboo topic is a massive disservice to the community. While it might cut down on some occasional infighting in the threads, it opens the door to profiteers and snake oil salesmen because a lot of people don’t understand what they’re buying or how to shop for what they want. I think that’s just ridiculous, but what do I know?
Awesome write up, real reference stuff here, thank you very much! Think I'll go with the stock cable for a couple of months to get the brain burn in to settle in, not to mention Glenn OTL on the way