ZMF Auteur Thread
Feb 24, 2018 at 9:46 PM Post #781 of 8,282
The ZMF OFC is a nice upgrade, it tightens things up a touch, improves dynamics slightly and makes imaging a little more specific.

My go-to cable is the DanaCable Lazuli, which improves dynamic impact and slam very noticeably, makes the midrange more relaxed and natural sounding, and makes treble elegant and smooth. It also improves detail, separation and imaging without pushing them artificially forward. It’s a little pricey around $550-$650, but I’ve compared it head-to-head with the $2,400 DHC Prion 4 and the $1,200 KimberKable Axios and found it to be as good or better than both cables.

I also think the WyWires Red cable is very good and pretty reasonably priced... I think it’s like $329, IIRC.

Other than that, general tips: silver tends to have the sharpest transient attack, making it feel clean, sparkley and detailed. OCC copper is more transient-edge-neutral and tends to have a sweet sound and great depth layering characteristics. OFC tends to be the warmest and most relaxed sounding. If they are made well, any of the three metals can be equally great sounding.

The real variables you’re dealing with are resistance, inductance and capacitance. On a well-built cable, inductance and capacitance will be sorted out, so the one you really have to deal with is resistance. All headphone drivers require energy to move, and since they have mass, they also require energy to stop moving at the exact right time, so the resistance of your cable will effect the damping accuracy of your drivers. While the measurement science on this is still advancing, there is an observable difference in square wave response accuracy from cable to cable.

The ideal cable would be no cable at all, with a perfect translation between the voltage provided from your amp and the voltage from your driver. Since that is not really practical (at least not for anything other than the Sennheiser HE-1, which does the high voltage amplification AT the driver), you want to have as little resistance as possible from the cable.

There are two ways to do this: by increasing the effective width of the cable with a thicker gauge or more strands, or by decreasing the length of the cable. For example, a five foot cable will have half the resistance of a ten foot cable, so get the shortest length that is convenient for you (I usually do 2M for desktop, FWIW). The resistance also drops in half every 3 gauges, so an 18 gauge cable has half the resistance of a 21 gauge cable, for example (lower gauge = thicker and less resistance).

With a thicker cable you generally get more bass, more relaxed mids (less shout), smoother treble, better depth layering, etc.

Hopefully, that at least helps you understand what you are buying. IMO, the fact that cables have become a taboo topic is a massive disservice to the community. While it might cut down on some occasional infighting in the threads, it opens the door to profiteers and snake oil salesmen because a lot of people don’t understand what they’re buying or how to shop for what they want. I think that’s just ridiculous, but what do I know?

Awesome write up, real reference stuff here, thank you very much! Think I'll go with the stock cable for a couple of months to get the brain burn in to settle in, not to mention Glenn OTL on the way
 
Feb 24, 2018 at 10:35 PM Post #782 of 8,282
Awesome write up, real reference stuff here, thank you very much! Think I'll go with the stock cable for a couple of months to get the brain burn in to settle in, not to mention Glenn OTL on the way

That's a good way to go about it, IMO. Listen first and then see what you want more of, what you want less of, etc. and address the cable situation prescriptively. IE: if you want more transient edge, get something with silver; if you want more bass thump and warmth, go with a low resistance OFC copper cable, etc. That's typically how I go about it.
 
Feb 25, 2018 at 1:53 AM Post #783 of 8,282
The ZMF OFC is a nice upgrade, it tightens things up a touch, improves dynamics slightly and makes imaging a little more specific.

My go-to cable is the DanaCable Lazuli, which improves dynamic impact and slam very noticeably, makes the midrange more relaxed and natural sounding, and makes treble elegant and smooth. It also improves detail, separation and imaging without pushing them artificially forward. It’s a little pricey around $550-$650, but I’ve compared it head-to-head with the $2,400 DHC Prion 4 and the $1,200 KimberKable Axios and found it to be as good or better than both cables.

I also think the WyWires Red cable is very good and pretty reasonably priced... I think it’s like $329, IIRC.

Other than that, general tips: silver tends to have the sharpest transient attack, making it feel clean, sparkley and detailed. OCC copper is more transient-edge-neutral and tends to have a sweet sound and great depth layering characteristics. OFC tends to be the warmest and most relaxed sounding. If they are made well, any of the three metals can be equally great sounding.

The real variables you’re dealing with are resistance, inductance and capacitance. On a well-built cable, inductance and capacitance will be sorted out, so the one you really have to deal with is resistance. All headphone drivers require energy to move, and since they have mass, they also require energy to stop moving at the exact right time, so the resistance of your cable will effect the damping accuracy of your drivers. While the measurement science on this is still advancing, there is an observable difference in square wave response accuracy from cable to cable.

The ideal cable would be no cable at all, with a perfect translation between the voltage provided from your amp and the voltage from your driver. Since that is not really practical (at least not for anything other than the Sennheiser HE-1, which does the high voltage amplification AT the driver), you want to have as little resistance as possible from the cable.

There are two ways to do this: by increasing the effective width of the cable with a thicker gauge or more strands, or by decreasing the length of the cable. For example, a five foot cable will have half the resistance of a ten foot cable, so get the shortest length that is convenient for you (I usually do 2M for desktop, FWIW). The resistance also drops in half every 3 gauges, so an 18 gauge cable has half the resistance of a 21 gauge cable, for example (lower gauge = thicker and less resistance).

With a thicker cable you generally get more bass, more relaxed mids (less shout), smoother treble, better depth layering, etc.

Hopefully, that at least helps you understand what you are buying. IMO, the fact that cables have become a taboo topic is a massive disservice to the community. While it might cut down on some occasional infighting in the threads, it opens the door to profiteers and snake oil salesmen because a lot of people don’t understand what they’re buying or how to shop for what they want. I think that’s just ridiculous, but what do I know?
I don't know if you recall, but we had a conversation about cables a while back. I was sceptical about how much better sounding a cable like the DanaCable could be. You told me to go talk to Dana at RMAF. I did. I insisted on doing his demo before I got into his product speech. The a/b rig seemed legit. The HE1K pair were revealing, with better all around sound going to the pair that used his cable. We even swapped headphones to ensure they weren't voiced different.

The danacable did sound better. I can't deny what I heard. With that said, it's the last 5% improvement in a chain, imo. I can't see getting a great cable like that until after having found my for-certain end game headphone and dac/amp. The money is just better spent elsewhere.

So, I can see going to Zach's upgrade cable at $60. For the quality and performance, it's a no brainier at that price. However, a cable that cost as much as my headphones isn't anywhere in my future until all the other component selections are satisfied.
 
Feb 25, 2018 at 2:55 AM Post #785 of 8,282
Anyone know if a Holo Springs DAC would pair well with the Auteurs? Auteurs are running from a Feliks Audio Euforia with stock tubes.

It’s a great DAC - very airy, open and transparent sounding. Honestly, it should be good with anything you pair with it.
 
Feb 25, 2018 at 3:05 AM Post #786 of 8,282
I don't know if you recall, but we had a conversation about cables a while back. I was sceptical about how much better sounding a cable like the DanaCable could be. You told me to go talk to Dana at RMAF. I did. I insisted on doing his demo before I got into his product speech. The a/b rig seemed legit. The HE1K pair were revealing, with better all around sound going to the pair that used his cable. We even swapped headphones to ensure they weren't voiced different.

The danacable did sound better. I can't deny what I heard. With that said, it's the last 5% improvement in a chain, imo. I can't see getting a great cable like that until after having found my for-certain end game headphone and dac/amp. The money is just better spent elsewhere.

So, I can see going to Zach's upgrade cable at $60. For the quality and performance, it's a no brainier at that price. However, a cable that cost as much as my headphones isn't anywhere in my future until all the other component selections are satisfied.

Yes, headphones first, then amp. At that point, you need to judge what is the weakest link in your system - DAC, cables, software, power, vibration damping or digital connection - and then keep attacking the weak points one by one until they are gone.
 
Feb 25, 2018 at 3:09 AM Post #787 of 8,282
Yes, headphones first, then amp. At that point, you need to judge what is the weakest link in your system - DAC, cables, software, power, vibration damping or digital connection - and then keep attacking the weak points one by one until they are gone.
I couldn't agree more. Well said.

Maybe one day I'll have all my unicorns in one stable. I think I'm getting close.
 
Feb 25, 2018 at 6:28 AM Post #788 of 8,282
There's also silver-plated copper cables (Effect Audio for one, and many others), and copper/silver alloy (Forza Audio Works "hybrid") which are both in the spectrum between OCC and silver.
 
Feb 25, 2018 at 2:27 PM Post #789 of 8,282
Yes, headphones first, then amp. At that point, you need to judge what is the weakest link in your system - DAC, cables, software, power, vibration damping or digital connection - and then keep attacking the weak points one by one until they are gone.

Can't help but laugh...the weakest link in my system (by a long shot) is ME.
 
Feb 25, 2018 at 3:29 PM Post #790 of 8,282
Received my Teak pair of Auteurs yesterday. Just wanted to give the community my impressions FWIW. A caveat: I do not consider myself an expert by any means but just an average joe who is slowly evolving my equipment into what I seek for my personal preferences.
My audio habit has evolved from listening for pure enjoyment to being obsessed with trying to hear details I have not noticed before. This often involves active listening that can be fatiguing and a tendancy to forego tube sound for the possibly harsh but more revealing solid state sound. These are the first pair headphones that I have tried that I feel like I lose next to nothing from using tubes and gain so much that I am unwilling to take the tube amp out of the mix. Moreover, they are not fatiguing at all. For me, this headphone is about finding the right balance.

Setup:
JRiver-> Wireworld USB-> IFI USB 3.0-> IFI Gemini-> IFI IDSD BL -> Chord clearways -> Amps and Sound Kenzie-> Default ZMF cable--> ZMF Teak Auteurs.

Soundstage:
The diagram in CSkippy's review is spot on in my opinion. https://www.head-fi.org/showcase/zmf-auteur.22744/reviews
The right and left sides come in closer to the ears and the middle is slightly recessed further back. For me, the soundstage is sufficiently wide to lend itself to isolating and identifying various instruments in the mix while still having an intimate feeling like you are right there. This is so even on tracks that have a lot going instrumentally. I am still able to identify overlapping tracks and their associated instruments.

Coloration:
I think these are perfectly balanced for what I want. Some people may consider them warm. I can understand this as they seem a little rolled off compared to the HD800 for example, but I think this is a good thing. I have yet to get that stabbing high end that can take you out of the music. In fact, this is the first headphone setup that has allowed me to listen to jazz recordings again at the desired volume without the fear of that effect at the end of a high note run. Another example, is "Don't know why" on the Come away with me album by Norah Jones always felt piercing within the first phrase even though it is a very well mixed album. That uncomfortable intro is now enjoyable. All that being said, rock is where these cans really shine in my opinion. I wouldn't say that they reveal more in terms of the presence of certain parts of the music, but there is more texture than what I am used to in other setups. The dynamics of guitars are more discernable, as is the heft of the phrasing. For piano parts, particularly in the middle or lower register, you can hear the force used when striking the keys. The bass extension across the board is excellent but still tight and not flubby. Even with slightly less emphasis on the high end, cymbals still sound authentic and clear. Some people have compared these to the HD650. Although these were my first love when venturing into headphone audio, over the years I have found them woolly or muddy compared to others given such an emphasis on mid-range. I feel like they drown out the detail in the treble area. I do not get this impression from the Auteurs and I don't see a reason to use my HD650s anymore.

Why I believe this headphone creates an excellent balance of factors:
Good Soundstage but intimate as well
Not too bright, not too mid or bass heavy that it becomes muddy. Everything in its place with no over-emphasis.
The balance makes it non-fatiguing.
It REALLY likes tubes. I don't feel you lose detail, but actually get more dynamics and texture.
A ripping guitar tube amp sounds like a ripping guitar tube amp - there is meat on the bones that you can feel.
Even on lower quality recordings music still sounds good.

Also, just FWIW, I have never really had a position on the effects of burn in for cables or headphones. I know that Zack does some burn in in-house, presumably for quality control. It may be confirmation bias, but in coming back to the heaphones today after further burn-in, I was like WOW, these seem better than they did yesterday. This could also be my ears getting used their particular sound, but I just think its great when you come back to a piece of kit and can be suprised in that way. These cans do that for me.

If anyone has any specific questions please let me know and I will try to answer them.
 
Feb 25, 2018 at 4:36 PM Post #791 of 8,282
Nice impressions! Mine is scheduled for delivery tomorrow, counting the minutes...
 
Feb 25, 2018 at 4:55 PM Post #792 of 8,282
I think Zach says 150 hours?

Not doing burn in triggers my nervosa for the first few weeks, so I repurposed an old laptop.

It has my old fiio e10k permanently attached, because while it doesn't sound great it's always been loud enough for any headphone I've owned.

When I get a new one I turn it on, plug it in, and play a list with white/pink/brown noise & short pauses on repeat for a week, starting at slightly quiet and turning it up every couple of days, ending at "I wouldn't listen this loud for more than an album".

Possibly it's overkill, but it also overkills nervosa, peace of mind is worth it :)
 
Feb 26, 2018 at 7:48 PM Post #793 of 8,282
Man this thing is beautiful, I've just been admiring it for the last 30 minutes!!



Auteur.jpeg
 
Feb 26, 2018 at 8:12 PM Post #795 of 8,282
Impressions to come after I've had some time, but 3 songs in I am in love. This thing is made for metal
 

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