[yhong26]

Quote:

Quite possible.  This depends on the player software.

i used foobar2000 with WASAPI output...does any other recommend?

 

[amb]

Quote:

i used foobar2000 with WASAPI output...does any other recommend?

That's a fine combination if WASAPI works for you.  I always seem to have trouble with WASAPI for some reason, so I use ASIO4all instead.  That is, when I use Windows instead of Linux (a rare occurrence).

 

[yhong26]

Quote:

That's a fine combination if WASAPI works for you.  I always seem to have trouble with WASAPI for some reason, so I use ASIO4all instead.  That is, when I use Windows instead of Linux (a rare occurrence).

so now i also used ASIO instead WASAPI,so there is no problem already.

 

[Nebby]

*runs off and starts a rumor that amb said Linux has better sound quality* 

 
Quote:

That's a fine combination if WASAPI works for you.  I always seem to have trouble with WASAPI for some reason, so I use ASIO4all instead.  That is, when I use Windows instead of Linux (a rare occurrence).

 

[yhong26]

Quote:

*runs off and starts a rumor that amb said Linux has better sound quality* 

 

 

if i got free,i must try,but anybody try it?is real?

 

[Nebby]

It was a joke
 
Quote:

if i got free,i must try,but anybody try it?is real?

 

[yhong26]

Quote:

It was a joke
 

 

JOKE?hahaa...

 

[Ntropic]

See, I built my y1 sometime during the summer, and found it incredibly bassy. I never really looked into it as I got rather busy when the term started, but recently it really started bothering me, especially with me beginning to put together M^3 BOM (how come Mouser has the worst selection of transformers ever?). So I decided to run a RMAA test.
 
 
 

 
 
OH MY GOD THAT'S THE WORST ROLL OFF I'VE EVER SEEN/HEARD SINCE I MADE THE MISTAKE OF TRYING ON A BOSE HEADPHONE AT FUTURESHOP.
 
So yeah, I don't know what's causing it for sure, but I'd bet money that it's the output caps. They're the only part that's really non-standard other than C22D, C24D and C25D, and R9U, which wouldn't be a part of the problem.
 
So, tell me, what is it about the Nichicon FG-series capacitor, assuming it is the culprit, that isn't doing the job right? They're rated for 22uF and 50V.
 
http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/UFG1E220MDM/?qs=kArNe9LFxXlrPbLX%252bQEUQw%3d%3d
 
What should I look for when finding caps to replace these?
 
 

 

[Nebby]

Are you plugging headphones directly into the y1 or are you using an amp? If you're using it without an amp, what impedance are the headphones? For your RMAA test, what test load did you use?
 
In both the case of using a low impedance headphone or running the RMAA test without a test load you effectively form a low pass filter. In amb's parts list documentation he recommends using the 470uf if you plan on driving low impedance headphones:
 
 
 
Quote:

 If you plan to drive headphones directly from the γ1, then you should use Nichicon KW or FW 470µF 6.3V or 10V capacitors to avoid low-frequency roll-off.

 
 
Quote:

See, I built my y1 sometime during the summer, and found it incredibly bassy. I never really looked into it as I got rather busy when the term started, but recently it really started bothering me, especially with me beginning to put together M^3 BOM (how come Mouser has the worst selection of transformers ever?). So I decided to run a RMAA test.
 
 
 

 
 
OH MY GOD THAT'S THE WORST ROLL OFF I'VE EVER SEEN/HEARD SINCE I MADE THE MISTAKE OF TRYING ON A BOSE HEADPHONE AT FUTURESHOP.
 
So yeah, I don't know what's causing it for sure, but I'd bet money that it's the output caps. They're the only part that's really non-standard other than C22D, C24D and C25D, and R9U, which wouldn't be a part of the problem.
 
So, tell me, what is it about the Nichicon FG-series capacitor, assuming it is the culprit, that isn't doing the job right? They're rated for 22uF and 50V.
 
http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/UFG1E220MDM/?qs=kArNe9LFxXlrPbLX%252bQEUQw%3d%3d
 
What should I look for when finding caps to replace these?
 
 

 

[Ntropic]

The y1 feeds my D2 for headphone listening, and for the test, I don't have a method of loading the DAC. Would using my D2 work as such, or am I going to have to go out and buy some resistors and plugs?
 
I'd like to note that that frequency response graph holds true when I listen to the y1 through the D2 or even directly through the y1 (albeit with bass roll off because the caps weren't designed for that).

 

[Nebby]

Ah, I totally misread what you typed and the read the graph wrong as well! I can only blame it on just having woken up
 
I'm not sure what could be causing your treble roll off....that's new to me.

 

[amb]

Ntropic, did you run your RMAA through the USB input?  What are the USB audio settings on the computer and in RMAA?  I.e., sampling rate, bit resolution, etc.  What version of Windows and what driver path for γ1 (i.e., MME, DirectSound, ASIO)?
 
I don't see how you would get an early rolloff like that, unless the DAC "thinks" the sampling rate is lower than it actually is.

 

[Ntropic]

This is through coaxial. Windows 7, 16 bit, 48kHz (RMAA, DAC, and Line In), Directsound Realtek Digital Output, MME Line In. I double checked everything, and this time I'm sure the output format is correct.
 
Here's the whole report. I'd test USB, but I'm pretty sure I killed U1U at some point, as we established at some earlier point in this thread.
 
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/5703631/ALC885xy1.htm

 

[amb]

Ntropic, measure the voltage on pin 12 of U3D.  At power on it should go to 3.3V for a brief moment and then fall to 0V.  If it stays at 3.3V then either U9D is the wrong part or it's damaged.  WM8501's pin 12 is the "de-emphasis" pin and if set to logic "high", would cause a high frequency rolloff.

 

[Ntropic]

Yeah, the voltage holds stead at ~3.3V on pin 12. Since I'm sure I've got the right part, then it's damaged as you say. I wonder if it'd do anything if I swapped U4D and U9D?