[Jerryfan]

My impressions of the aes/ebu not sounding good was because I had put the su-1 right on top my dac. 

Now the aes/ebu sounds a little better than the coax.

This effects the sound? My yulong u18 converter is sitting right on top of my yulong d18 DAC.

 

[kazsud]

Ive got an F1 coming. Should I put my Regen between the Mac and the F1 or just sell the regen. Its a bit of a steep leaning curve for me. 

Yes

 

[Jerryfan]

Yes

Good answer

 

[mordicai]

Thanks for the advice

 

[somestranger26]

  So now I'm trying to figure out how to get my fios tv audio and Apple TV audio to go through the su-1. Only thing I can think of is optical of those going optical in my mbp then usb out to su-1.
 
Has anyone done something similar to this yet? All of my equipment is in one place at my tv.

I would just connect them directly to your DAC. Adding extra conversion steps is more likely to negatively impact sound quality than to improve it.

 

[Padawan38]

Hello,
 
About the outputs, In my mind the quality hierarchy would be :
Optical < Coax-BNC < AES/EBU < I2s
 
 
Now I'm wondering about the following :
The SU-1 has usb isolation so guess there would be no benefit to add usb isolator but what about "reclocking" add-on ...
- Does it worth to add "reclock" USB -> USB item between the PC and the SU-1 ?
- If yes, what Is the best among Regen, W4s Recovery, etc ... ?
 
Thx a lot
 
Rgds
P
 
NB : to me Intona, Schitt Wyrd are not reclockers but isolators.

 

[jabbr]

  Hello,
...
- If yes, what Is the best among Regen, W4s Recovery, etc ... ?
 
 

Mutec MC-3+USB

 

[somestranger26]

  Hello,
 
About the outputs, In my mind the quality hierarchy would be :
Optical < Coax-BNC < AES/EBU < I2s
 
 
Now I'm wondering about the following :
The SU-1 has usb isolation so guess there would be no benefit to add usb isolator but what about "reclocking" add-on ...
- Does it worth to add "reclock" USB -> USB item between the PC and the SU-1 ?
- If yes, what Is the best among Regen, W4s Recovery, etc ... ?
 
Thx a lot
 
Rgds
P
 
NB : to me Intona, Schitt Wyrd are not reclockers but isolators.

Just because the SU-1 has some isolation on the board does not mean it wouldn't benefit from additional isolation, like the Startech Gigabit LAN that has been discussed at great length. It most likely improves SQ because of LAN isolation, and is supposed to be far better than any of the other gizmos.

 

[Padawan38]

Thx for your note.
 
Erratum, seems Wyrd and Intona as reclockers as well (Wyrd : there's a clock on the back on the PCB ; Intona "
The 7054-based USB Hi-Speed Isolator is a phy-level receiver/isolator/reclocker/repacketizer working at a bidirectional ...")

 
About Startech Gigabit LAN , where in the "chain" do you put this item ?

 

[stigb]

  Thx for your note.
 
Erratum, seems Wyrd and Intona as reclockers as well (Wyrd : there's a clock on the back on the PCB ; Intona "
The 7054-based USB Hi-Speed Isolator is a phy-level receiver/isolator/reclocker/repacketizer working at a bidirectional ...")

 
About Startech Gigabit LAN , where in the "chain" do you put this item ?

I put my Startech Gigabit LAN between the computers USB-card and my Singxer SU-1.

 

[Padawan38]

.. ok usb output from the PC but then ... how do you plug it to the SU-1 ? 

 

[rb2013]

  Hello,
 
About the outputs, In my mind the quality hierarchy would be :
Optical < Coax-BNC < AES/EBU < I2s
 
 
Now I'm wondering about the following :
The SU-1 has usb isolation so guess there would be no benefit to add usb isolator but what about "reclocking" add-on ...
- Does it worth to add "reclock" USB -> USB item between the PC and the SU-1 ?
- If yes, what Is the best among Regen, W4s Recovery, etc ... ?
 
Thx a lot
 
Rgds
P
 
NB : to me Intona, Schitt Wyrd are not reclockers but isolators.

The SU-1 and the F-1 (they use similar isolation schemes) are not galvanically isolated from the USB ground neither are the data lines.  Only the SPDIF is isolated.
 
You would need a Intona or ICRON/Startech GB LAN USB extender - or the new PS Audio LANRover.  My experience with the ICRON/Startech has been excellent on the F-1.

The Schiit Wyrd doesn't offer GI, but replaces the noisy PC USB +5VDC power with a linear, well regulated one.

 

[ccschua]

Finally my pro3Z arrives and surprise it came with battery box.

The unit looks no difference except that its in gold.

Hookup and replace it with singxer.

It gives slight edge in detail and texture info.

Then put it the AA battery. This is where the funs starts.

You really hav to give it a listen.

 

[rb2013]

To clear up some confusion on this Galvanic Isolation issue.
 
There are two connections that need GI one is from the PC USB to the DDC and the other is from the DDC to the DAC on the SPDIF coax.
 
The Singxer X-1 uses the std Murata in the latest version, the older X-1 used a Chinese isolator - this is for the SPDIF coax

 
The F-1 uses a Xilinx FPGA and TI isolators in lieu of the Murata's (note the lack of the Murata box).  It does offer the advantage of placing the clocks on the 'clean' side of the board - this does improve the isolation by providing GI from the USB power - but not on the USB data lines.  This form of isolation becomes less important if you feed the F-1 a separate clean power source then the PC USB.  This can be done with a split USB cable, or using a Remedy, Regen or Wyrd which substitute a well regulated low noise power feed to the USB power lines.

 
 
The SU-1 uses a similar scheme for SPDIF isolation - but adding BNC, Coax optical and AES to the outputs (also note the lack of Murata boxes).

 
This followed a similar scheme on the Tanly (no Singxer was not the first):

 
And the Hydra Z (using a SPARTAN 6 FPGA):

 
 
 
Here is the implementation on the Breeze DU-U8 (note the Murata boxes)

 
The Melodious MX-U8:

 
Gustard U12 (using the Pulse isolators)

 
DIYinHK DXIO Pro3a

 

[rb2013]

Finally my pro3Z arrives and surprise it came with battery box.

The unit looks no difference except that its in gold.

Hookup and replace it with singxer.

It gives slight edge in detail and texture info.

Then put it the AA battery. This is where the funs starts.

You really hav to give it a listen.

Do you have a board photo?  I'd like to add it to my collection