X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty Professional (PCIe) -- Capacitor Mod Questions
Feb 5, 2011 at 10:31 PM Thread Starter Post #1 of 10

Formula350

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I'm trying to help a friend modify his X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty Pro (the Tit-Fat-Pro as I call it, since it's a mouthful!) since I have became rather interested in mods, having read a wealth of stuff over the last few months, and frankly don't shut up about it haha Well he's got a number of Creative brand cards and decided to take the plunge on his Audigy2 ZS, at least by swapping out the Power Filter Cap since it was easily documented. Long story short, even the by-no-means "Audio Grade" Nichicon he dropped (donated by some dead motherboard) sounded better, so he was hooked enough to buy some MUSE FX caps. They arrived and he swapped out the standard Nichi for the MUSE, not even having broken in yet he is quite pleased, and wants to move forward with the X-Fi's filter cap! However, much to our dismay, a page outlining mods on them cannot be found :\ If it was a PCI model there would be a better guess to be made as to which is them, but he doesn't really want to desolder caps and hope for the best, which I understand personally. Either way, the best I've been able to come up with (as my knowledge is all gained from reading over the last 5 or so months to build a HP amp) is a educated guess based off a annotated photo for a PCI standard-Titanium... Of course, it is a 50:50 shot and for all I know we would be giving the SDR X-RAM module cleaner power lol

Basically the hope is that with the knowledgeable people here, and the wealth of X-Fi mods which have taken place, someone will know which is the one to go for. And perhaps even someone has a few other simple tricks to perform! Also to not force anyone to go looking for a picture I made him take a nice close up of the card to better help you, help us! (blame Casio for the picture quality)

So for his polarized MUSE FX caps (EDIT:1,000uF 63V, not 1,200uF), would one or two be recommended? (He has some 4562s en route as well, if that has any bearing)

If two, is them in parallel as:
(- +)
(+ -)
... frowned upon, not a good idea to begin with, or? Reason I ask is my understanding was that the - side of the cap doesn't have quite as good a plating as the + side and this in effect makes it out to have "equal" grade plating on both sides. [/ignorance] At the same time though that went against my understanding of Caps in that reversing the polarity will frankly ruin a cap (and literally could blow it up), and that IF this was a plausible method, then would be be performable with Bi-Polar caps. A simple 'yes' or 'no' will more than suffice, but of course anyone willing to expound on why that is if there are corrections, or if it is a resounding 'No', then that'd be awesome as well :D


-------------------

Question 2 is the one I'm not fully understanding, no matter how much info I read: Capacitor Coupling/Decoupling and what should be done... I am sure it is a rather simple (relatively speaking) concept to understand, but I just can't seem to wrap my head around what should be or needs to be done when it comes to sound cards. If they are currently coupled and you should de-couple; if they are decoupled and should be coupled; how to go about doing that effectively, yet keeping it simple; but also what size capacitors one should move to?

Since that is likely more than I should probably ask, especially for a first post, I'll proceed on S-T-F-U now lol

Any and all help is really appreciated! If this has been gone over somewhere and I just wasn't searching for the right thing, by all means redirect me there! I know how it is to be a Veteran on a forums and having "noobs" come in asking something that has been asked time and time again, but I did try to find it on my own at least!

Thanks!


SB X-Fi "Tit Fat Pro" SB0880


 
Feb 5, 2011 at 10:35 PM Post #2 of 10
USE THESE CAPS - PERIOD      http://www.partsconnexion.com/capacitor_ele_elna_rfs.html       
atsmile.gif

 
Feb 5, 2011 at 11:36 PM Post #4 of 10

He already has the MUSE FX caps, but I appreciate the recommendation. I was going to go with Elnas for whatever amp I decide to build. :D Regardless if they are better than the MUSE FX though, they are both better than the stock Jamicon that Creative used :triportsad: lol


Please don't abbreviate Titanium Fatal1ty Pro as Tit Fat Pro, my mind went down the gutter with that.

Yea well, I prefer the entertainment value hahaha TFP would be quicker to type, but just isn't as funny! There is also the Tit Fat Champ and Tit HD :p 
 
 
Feb 7, 2011 at 10:34 PM Post #6 of 10
Nichicon Muse series are good for audio circuits when used in the power supply. This includes types FW, FG, and KZ in order of increasing quality. Nichicon ES is a bipolar and good for audio signal coupling. For the same values and voltages they will be bigger than the stock caps so you will have to compromise.
 
IMO, the ELNA Cerafine, Silmic, and Silmic II are quite good for audio circuits when used in the power supply. Here again they will be larger than stock caps of the same value and voltage. I have used the Silmic II for audio signal coupling where a DC voltage is present.
 
Hope this helps but few Creative products are going to benefit from capacitor upgrades. X-Fi is much better than Audigy series but I only recommend them for gamers.
 
P.S. Elna Silmic II is referred to as type RFS.
 
Feb 8, 2011 at 9:34 PM Post #7 of 10
Nichicon Muse series are good for audio circuits when used in the power supply. This includes types FW, FG, and KZ in order of increasing quality. Nichicon ES is a bipolar and good for audio signal coupling. For the same values and voltages they will be bigger than the stock caps so you will have to compromise.
 
IMO, the ELNA Cerafine, Silmic, and Silmic II are quite good for audio circuits when used in the power supply. Here again they will be larger than stock caps of the same value and voltage. I have used the Silmic II for audio signal coupling where a DC voltage is present.
 
Hope this helps but few Creative products are going to benefit from capacitor upgrades. X-Fi is much better than Audigy series but I only recommend them for gamers.
 
P.S. Elna Silmic II is referred to as type RFS.


Well the main thing we're trying to find out is which of them is the main power cap (power filter cap, filter cap?) so he can replace it. My lack of owning the X-Fi for an in-person view of it means I can only speculate as to the roll of some of these. That is why I'm on the fence about which of the two caps are the one I'm after: The one directly above the PCIe x1 connector. Or the one directly below the memory chip (next to the X-Fi chip).
 
Feb 9, 2011 at 11:01 AM Post #8 of 10
Alright, I'm gonna come right out and say it: I'm said buddy of Formula's who's trying to mod an X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty Pro.
 
The question here isn't what caps or what opamps or anything: I already have the caps and the opamps, sort of acquired based on things read in these very forums and elsewhere.  I'm following the theory that virtually any upgrade to these cards are improvements; the latest, greatest, and awesomest isn't my goal.  But again, the issue is what exactly am I replacing?  Given the age of the X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty cards I would have assumed that someone would have undertaken the task of upgrading it and posted their journey somewheres, but all the mod guides I've stumbled across here are for the original PCI X-Fi, and for Asus cards.  lol I'm starting to think that I'm the only person in the world to have ever attempted this!
 
Anyways, thanks guys, for the input on what caps to have acquired.  If I hadn't already got the Muse's it'd be something to think about.
 
Feb 11, 2011 at 12:12 AM Post #10 of 10
Sadly, you are whipping a dead horse.


Assuming you're referring to his comment about being the only person to have thought about doing this, which he was obviously being sarcastic about, but if it has been done over and over, why could I not dig up any info on them? The vast majority of 'tutorials' or people discussing it is in relation to the low end and/or old models (XtremeMusic). Seemingly had the T-F Pro or Champion been done, I would've been able to turn up something about it. I Googled and forum searched for a good few hours to no avail :\ Though I'm pretty sure I figured out the cap we're after anyways, as it dawned on me when looking at a naked (EMI shield-less) Titanium HD... Majority of the caps were 10v, which PCIe is 12v. The only one on the card that wasn't 16v is one I thought may be it which is under the SDR chip, and it is 25v.
 

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