[jamato8]

Input or output tube? I would let it burn in for a while but the tubes most likely sent for the input tubes, the 6922's can be a bit bright sounding. I would get some nice 6DJ8's. Tube rolling can be fun but it can also be consuming.

John

 

[Capt. Z]

Thanks so much for all the inside.

I have a Woo 3 coming in the next couple of days. I plan on listening to it with the stock tubes for a while and than do some tube rolling.

Could someone maybe make a brief list on what electr. componants inside could/should be changed for better sound?

Thanks

 

[jamato8]

Get rid of the caps that are used for decoupling possible DC on the signal coming in, which rarely is on the signal in this day and age. Change output caps to Black Gate nonpolar 220uF, 2 per channel. The signal path is pretty simple, as is the design. It is a cathode follower design with the voltage referenced from the same source, which balances the current demands and works better than having separate supplies for the input and output tube.

I also "beefed" up the power supply with Solen Fast caps on the power supply caps and then bypassed the Solens with .1 or .01uf polypropolene. If Solens are unbypassed I find that they impart a hashy sound. Bypassed the Solens are transformed.

John

 

[Capt. Z]

Has anyone tried a stepped attenuator in the WooAudio 3?

I really love the extra detail a stepped attenuator gives.

 

[jamato8]

The Woo needs about an hour of warm-up to start coming into its good sound. Before that you don't have the staging, bass, etc.

A stepped attenuator would be very nice. I have read of someone here using it with their Woo 3.

John

 

[spiritman]

Well now I can hear what all the hub bub is about!! Bub...

 

[jamato8]

It will need about 100 plus hours before you hear all that it is capable of, which is normal for most electronics but especially true of tube equipment.

The 5998, in my opinion, is needed for this amp, though other tubes will sound good. The hard to find 7236 is the best with bass control and transparency. I use the 6BZ7 as the drive tube some have troubles with tube. Why problems occur with the 6BZ7 I have no idea as I have none in this amp or my dac analog board. The specs for the 6BZ7 are very close to the 6DJ8 and in most all cases it can be used in place of the 6DJ8, at a fraction of the price. I also prefer the sound of the 6BZ7 to the multitude of nos 6DJ8's I have.

What color did you get?

John

 

[spiritman]

1st, I got the black unit. Man Its looks great. But I am home from work (sick) and you guessed it, thats where my cords and CD player are!

Speaking of cords which power cord is "the most bang for the buck"? Also is it OK to run this amp (for breakin) with no input or output load? Cant see how this would hurt a tube?

 

[jamato8]

I use the Zu power cord.

You can turn the unit on with no input or output but a musical or some type of signal is needed to break everything in ( some debate this saying that there is no such thing as break-in). Turning the unit on with no signal will allow the tubes to settle in and that is fine and for me desired.

John

 

[grey]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jamato8 It will need about 100 plus hours before you hear all that it is capable of, which is normal for most electronics but especially true of tube equipment. The 5998, in my opinion, is needed for this amp, though other tubes will sound good. The hard to find 7236 is the best with bass control and transparency. I use the 6BZ7 as the drive tube some have troubles with tube. Why problems occur with the 6BZ7 I have no idea as I have none in this amp or my dac analog board. The specs for the 6BZ7 are very close to the 6DJ8 and in most all cases it can be used in place of the 6DJ8, at a fraction of the price. I also prefer the sound of the 6BZ7 to the multitude of nos 6DJ8's I have. What color did you get? John

Hi,

You are so right about the 5998. I just got this amp about a month ago and its my first tube amp. After 300+ hours of break in, the sound with the stock 6as7 and 6922s tubes were really dull. No detail, small soundstage, and rolled off highs and lows. It was, however, liquid sounding and easy to listen to compared to what I'm used to (solid state). After replacing the amp with some NOS Siemens 6dj8s, everything got better. Then, I recently put in a Tung Sol 5998. Wow! This amp is slamming! Detail, midrange clarity, full deep puchy bass, huge soundstage. I have to say, I've owned a Corda Prehead before for a good 2 years, but in my honest humble opinion, this amp smokes it in every way with my combination of tubes. Just my thoughts...

 

[Capt. Z]

Hi jamato8;

I just got my WooAudio 3 today. It surly is a great sounding amp, even with the stck tubes. I also got some 6SA7 RCA and Chatham tubes and a Tungsol 7236 on the side waiting for trial. And there are some GE and RCA 6BZ7 coming soon.

Sonically, how does the Tung Sol 5998 differ to the other 6SA7 and the Tung Sol 7236?

 

[KZEE]

As far as tube break in, I believe that you need to have a signal going through the tube in order for all of the tube's circuitry (including pins) to burn in - just turning the amp on without running a signal through it will just burn in the heaters. I went and auditioned a Melos a little while back, and the owner of the amp had turned the Melos on at 8 in the morning, but he didn't have a signal going through it. I arrived at 11 or so that morning and had a listen to the amp, and even though it had been on for 3 or so hours, after listening for a bit there was a marked change in the sound of the amp -it opend up and really began to sing - which reinforces my belief that you need a signal running through the tube(s) for break in/warm up purposes.
The 5998 Tung Sol continues to be my favorite power tube for the Woo, and although I initially liked the 6BZ7's when my amp was newish, I've come to prefer 6922's for now. The stock NOS Philips 6922's are too rolled off and dull for my tastes, and I've got late 60's Sylvania 6DJ8's in my Woo right now and they sound very good - nice and punchy and dynamic and musical, if not a bit soft on the top end. I went ahead and splurged and ordered up a pair of white label PQ USA Amperex tubes, and when they arrive we'll see if they're as good as people say they are.

 

[10068]

Currently i'm using NOS Zenith 6BQ7A & NOS Tung-Sol 6BQ7A. Power tube is 6AS7G. I don't have many other power tubes to mess with right now, but this combo of the other two tubes sounds FANTASTIC! I liked the Zenith but it had a bit too much "edge" to it, plus one of the tubes was faulty and hummed. So I popped in a Tung-Sol... wow! Didn't realize cross-mixing between various tube types made such a difference even when you change only one in the pair.

I'm hooked on tube rolling

 

[spiritman]

WOW, There is a sweet/Power to this amp! Its got at least 90 hrs on it. I really like it! Using my Grado RS-1's. I have only been using my 16bit sony D-EJ01 CD player. So I havent heard it all yet. I don't see this amp (with stock tubes) as muddy. Seems quite bright. Now how do I find a pair of Tung Sol 5998? I mean at a real price???

 

[calaf]

Quote:

Originally Posted by spiritman WOW, There is a sweet/Power to this amp! Its got at least 90 hrs on it. I really like it! Using my Grado RS-1's. I have only been using my 16bit sony D-EJ01 CD player. So I havent heard it all yet. I don't see this amp (with stock tubes) as muddy. Seems quite bright. Now how do I find a pair of Tung Sol 5998? I mean at a real price???

Spiritman, I think you'll need a pair of 6922 and a single power tube (5998 or 7236). I ordered a NOS Sylvania 7236 for $43 from vacuumtubes.com. Still waiting to hear from them...