[nocturaline]

You may find other inexpensive options in the schiit lyr2 rolling thread for 6dj8 options. Some of those need adapters

And some of those members in there taking rolling tubes (in quantity) to another level. So that might be worth a read

Thanks! I'll take a look.

 

[StanT]

I'll let you know when they land here. Being French living in the US, it's always fun to have some French product delivered to your door.

They are hard to find; but you might like some Mazda E88cc. I've been using a pair for the past couple of years. They are made in Suresnes, France and sound very similar to Herleen manufactured Phillips or Amperex (same owner).

 

[nocturaline]

They are hard to find; but you might like some Mazda E88cc. I've been using a pair for the past couple of years. They are made in Suresnes, France and sound very similar to Herleen manufactured Phillips or Amperex (same owner).

I've heard of the Mazda. Saw a pair for sale somewhere a few days ago. I'll have to track them down. Thanks for reminding me.

 

[thecrow]

One thing I’ve learnt in my tube rolling it’s definitely quality over quantity.

Having said that a small variety is good and you do have to explore options to see what beat uita your preferences

I also learnt that when there is a general con census here it’s usually correct

 

[nocturaline]

One thing I’ve learnt in my tube rolling it’s definitely quality over quantity.

Having said that a small variety is good and you do have to explore options to see what beat uita your preferences

I also learnt that when there is a general con census here it’s usually correct

I completely agree with what you're saying. Actually, if there hadn't been one of the power tubes buzzing, I wouldn't have changed anything. On the other hand, it's always nice to try to reasonably improve things, as long as we're not going too far - I'm talking to you, $500 Tung Sol 5998!

 

[thecrow]

I completely agree with what you're saying. Actually, if there hadn't been one of the power tubes buzzing, I wouldn't have changed anything. On the other hand, it's always nice to try to reasonably improve things, as long as we're not going too far - I'm talking to you, $500 Tung Sol 5998!

Maybe a pair of tung sol for $200-250

Or pair of gec 6as7g for 500 and you’ll NEVER need an alternative pair of power tubes

 

[nocturaline]

The power tubes have finally arrived - From the time they were shipped, it took 1 day from the UK to San Francisco and 4 days from San Francisco to my house, which is about 20 miles away. What a world. I haven't listened to them yet. The Amp is currently warming up. And yes they arrived in those crazy huge boxes - sorry for the not-so-great iPhone pics. No time to take out the real camera, put it on the tripod and take some HDR pics.

 

[nocturaline]

Maybe a pair of tung sol for $200-250

Or pair of gec 6as7g for 500 and you’ll NEVER need an alternative pair of power tubes

I may actually do something like that later this year... Unless I go solid state (Woo WA11). We'll see.

 

[nocturaline]

Those Thomson power tubes are excellent. The warmth that was somehow gone after installing the Matsushita driver tubes is back. Also, The Thomson add even more to the openness of the Matsushita. As I said in the Atticus thread, although not similar, it reminds me of my old electrostatic gear. It's fresh and fun. I've ordered a second set, just to be safe. Next, i might look into the rectifiers.

 

[Jyhnc]

I'm not sure at what point Audeze changed the LCD-3f to 120Ω; but mine sound very good on my WA2.

I bounce between Beyer T1s, LCD-3f (120Ω), a Ragnarok, and my WA2, and all combinations sound very nice.

Thanks for the info.

I am very keen to get a WA2 for LCD3 and HD800S but saw a few comments in this discussion that WA2 is underpowered to drive the LCD3. I find this confusing because LCD3 has a recommended power level of 250mW and WA2 could output ~500mW at around 110ohm, so in theory this should be sufficient?

Do you need to turn up the volume to max when you use LCD3 with the WA2?

 

[nocturaline]

Thanks for the info.

I am very keen to get a WA2 for LCD3 and HD800S but saw a few comments in this discussion that WA2 is underpowered to drive the LCD3. I find this confusing because LCD3 has a recommended power level of 250mW and WA2 could output ~500mW at around 110ohm, so in theory this should be sufficient?

Do you need to turn up the volume to max when you use LCD3 with the WA2?

I'm not sure the WA2 is the right amp for the LCD3. The WA2 is an OTL, and to my knowledge, will work best with 300ohm dynamic headphones such as the Sennheiser HD650 or the ZMF line. With the ZMF Atticus, I use about a quarter of the power. It will work just fine with the HD800S, which is a dynamic with high impedance, but with the LCD3, it may be too powerful. For the same price, the WA6-SE is probably a better option.

 

[Jyhnc]

I'm not sure the WA2 is the right amp for the LCD3. The WA2 is an OTL, and to my knowledge, will work best with 300ohm dynamic headphones such as the Sennheiser HD650 or the ZMF line. With the ZMF Atticus, I use about a quarter of the power. It will work just fine with the HD800S, which is a dynamic with high impedance, but with the LCD3, it may be too powerful. For the same price, the WA6-SE is probably a better option.

Thanks for the advice.
I am very interested in the WA6SE. However I am worried that it would sounded too 'Solid-State-ish'. Does WA6SE still preserve the best sounds of a Tube amp?

 

[attmci]

Thanks for the advice.
I am very interested in the WA6SE. However I am worried that it would sounded too 'Solid-State-ish'. Does WA6SE still preserve the best sounds of a Tube amp?

How about a WA22? No problem to drive LCD-3.

 

[OldSkool]

I own HD800's and LCD2's and power them with my WA2. Using TS5998 as power tubes, the HD800 sounds superb and even the LCD2 sounds "pretty dang good".

I recently picked up a Schiit Mjolnir amp, the original balanced SS version and I'm very glad I did as it "woke up" the LCD2. Not sure if it was a power or impedance issue but the synergy between the LCD2 and MJ1 is outstanding.

The latest version of the Mjolnir amp can use tubes but I have not heard it.

My .02 cents, YMMV.

 

[nocturaline]

Thanks for the advice.
I am very interested in the WA6SE. However I am worried that it would sounded too 'Solid-State-ish'. Does WA6SE still preserve the best sounds of a Tube amp?

I've never listened to the WA6 SE. My advice would be to contact Woo Audio directly and ask them. They're really cool people and should be able to tell you how each amp will sound with your headphones. And I agree with attmci, the WA22 would be an excellent choice, although it costs twice as much. That will probably be my next WOO amp purchase (unless I'm able to afford a WA33 ).