Wireless 2.1 Setup

Nov 24, 2017 at 10:19 PM Thread Starter Post #1 of 4

monjanger

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Recently I set up a projector, and have been using a pair of X2's to listen to what I watch on it. The problem is, I don't have the projector setup in a permanent way so I can not buy a proper receiver. This really takes away most of my options, as I need a powered, and preferably Bluetooth set of higher end speakers. For now, I just want to have a 2.0 setup, and in the future 2.1. I have been looking at the Vanatoo T0, and it seems to hit most marks. I was just curious if it will be loud enough to fill the room, and if I need a sub? I could definitely pick up a cheaper Dayton 8 inch one if needed. Any info or advice is appreciated. Thanks :)
 
Nov 24, 2017 at 11:50 PM Post #2 of 4
I need a powered, and preferably Bluetooth set of higher end speakers. For now, I just want to have a 2.0 setup, and in the future 2.1.

The problem there is integration - how do you get the sub to work with the 2.0 BT speakers over BT? If the BT receiver is built into the Master speakers' plate amp module, that will need to have a dedicated subwoofer preamp output (so the Master speaker's volume control adjusts the sub along with the speaker amps') or at least a fixed line stage output.

If it deosn't have such an output you're going to either use a wired input with a splitter to both and lose BT, or at least, get a separate BT receiver, and split the signal from there to the 2.0 speakers and the sub, negating the built in BT.

Note that some 2.1 systems like the Edifier E25 2.1 version (or something like that) comes with 3in desktop speakers plus one sub, and if just for making some movies sound good (rather than a proper bass drum kick and consistent imaging on music), this will work, and though it might cost more than the T Zero and an 8in active sub, at least makes everything easier to integrate (until one component breaks).

The Vaatoo T Zero has a subwoofer output, so at least integrating a sub isn't its problem, however...


I have been looking at the Vanatoo T0, and it seems to hit most marks. I was just curious if it will be loud enough to fill the room, and if I need a sub? I could definitely pick up a cheaper Dayton 8 inch one if needed. Any info or advice is appreciated. Thanks :)

That depends on the room size, the output power, and the speakers' response range. If the room is small enough, or you're using it as a desktop speaker, no problem.

However, as much as it would have to be a really large room for sound from any practically any speaker to not be heard across it (or you have to be severely off-axis from their dispersion angle), that doesn't means you're going to hear everything that they're capable of at closer distance nor if they're enough. Speakers for the most part are measured at 1m away, and that's how they got the low end range of its response. Sit back farther, and that -3dB moves up the range - ie, at minimum, less bass the farther you are than 1m away - unless room acoustics encourages it to reverberate (ex my HiVi D1080 has bass audible in the shower across the hall at full tilt, but that's full tilt, same way you can line up outside the club and hear the subwoofers pounding out what the kids on ecstasy are dancing to).

You could use the sub to compensate, but that's far from fool proof. Subwoofers have enough audible distortion at the top of their range, which is why it's preferable to use 5in or larger midwoofers and cut them lower. And since the T Zero is an asymmetrical design with only one channel of subwoofer output (unlike HT receivers, car audio processors, 2.2 set ups in large rooms with the subs taking a line level or high level signal from each side rather than a mono sub out, etc), the higher you go, the more likely it includes frequencies that are biased to one side of the image and less omnidirectional than low bass (ex the left side of a piano, some of the brass section, etc).

If this is just for making movies fun, I'd say go ahead with the T Zero and any 8in sub. Otherwise - if you want these to do well with music and you're sitting more than 1m away - look around for active speakers that use 5in or larger midwoofers, and if you can't find one with BT and sub output, maybe get one without BT and use a separate BT receiver and you can split the signal from there to the mains and sub.
 
Nov 25, 2017 at 3:15 AM Post #3 of 4
The problem there is integration - how do you get the sub to work with the 2.0 BT speakers over BT? If the BT receiver is built into the Master speakers' plate amp module, that will need to have a dedicated subwoofer preamp output (so the Master speaker's volume control adjusts the sub along with the speaker amps') or at least a fixed line stage output.

If it deosn't have such an output you're going to either use a wired input with a splitter to both and lose BT, or at least, get a separate BT receiver, and split the signal from there to the 2.0 speakers and the sub, negating the built in BT.

Note that some 2.1 systems like the Edifier E25 2.1 version (or something like that) comes with 3in desktop speakers plus one sub, and if just for making some movies sound good (rather than a proper bass drum kick and consistent imaging on music), this will work, and though it might cost more than the T Zero and an 8in active sub, at least makes everything easier to integrate (until one component breaks).

The Vaatoo T Zero has a subwoofer output, so at least integrating a sub isn't its problem, however...




That depends on the room size, the output power, and the speakers' response range. If the room is small enough, or you're using it as a desktop speaker, no problem.

However, as much as it would have to be a really large room for sound from any practically any speaker to not be heard across it (or you have to be severely off-axis from their dispersion angle), that doesn't means you're going to hear everything that they're capable of at closer distance nor if they're enough. Speakers for the most part are measured at 1m away, and that's how they got the low end range of its response. Sit back farther, and that -3dB moves up the range - ie, at minimum, less bass the farther you are than 1m away - unless room acoustics encourages it to reverberate (ex my HiVi D1080 has bass audible in the shower across the hall at full tilt, but that's full tilt, same way you can line up outside the club and hear the subwoofers pounding out what the kids on ecstasy are dancing to).

You could use the sub to compensate, but that's far from fool proof. Subwoofers have enough audible distortion at the top of their range, which is why it's preferable to use 5in or larger midwoofers and cut them lower. And since the T Zero is an asymmetrical design with only one channel of subwoofer output (unlike HT receivers, car audio processors, 2.2 set ups in large rooms with the subs taking a line level or high level signal from each side rather than a mono sub out, etc), the higher you go, the more likely it includes frequencies that are biased to one side of the image and less omnidirectional than low bass (ex the left side of a piano, some of the brass section, etc).

If this is just for making movies fun, I'd say go ahead with the T Zero and any 8in sub. Otherwise - if you want these to do well with music and you're sitting more than 1m away - look around for active speakers that use 5in or larger midwoofers, and if you can't find one with BT and sub output, maybe get one without BT and use a separate BT receiver and you can split the signal from there to the mains and sub.

This is a phenomenal answer. You answered every question I had, whilst also not creating any other questions! I came to the same conclusion while researching a wireless speaker setup, seeing how slim my options were. There were a few other Bluetooth bookshelf speakers on my mind, but none came close to what the T0s have to offer. I also stumbled upon the Klipsch reference premiere HD wireless setup, but they were out of my price range, and reviews varied heavily. I was then concerned if the T0s would fill my room, and you clearly answered this question. I realize now how necessary it is for me to get a sub, which would have been a second thought before. And yes, I am using this setup almost solely for movies and TV, so I won't need the volume to be at that next level. Thankyou so much for this detailed answer, I really couldn't of asked for more.
 
Nov 25, 2017 at 9:19 AM Post #4 of 4
And yes, I am using this setup almost solely for movies and TV, so I won't need the volume to be at that next level.

It's not really about whether they can fill the room, but how clean the low mid+upper bass to low bass transition will be. While ideally you need to balance how large the midwoofers are and how far away you sit so you can cut the sub lower, if it's movies and TV that transition is less critical than for dedicated audio/concert videos, and even I will just encourage to make the compromise on quality for everything else. Though, again, as long as it's not for critical listening to music and concert vids.

You do have some other options though. My internet is screwing up right now but troll through Amazon a little bit and you might find some Class T/fullrange Class D stereo amps that have relatively high output power for the form factor and a subwoofer output for around $100, then pair it with a separate BT receiver unit and Dayton passive speakers with 6in midwoofers. The amp might go for a little over $100 and the BT receiver for around $20, but dthe Dayton passive speakers are $30 for the dome tweeter version (the ribbon tweeter version is $55). That gets you a fair bit more power and low end response if you'll sit a bit farther, so in case you don't mind the separate amp and BT receiver as much as being able to sit farther out from the projected screen, this is one alternative.
 

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