[aceofpilots]

The wire is still connected to the inside components of the ear cup so I don't have to take that apart to solder them and the other end of the wire is still in the headband but i was able to get some slack of it.


How can I lengthen them? Is there a way to buy copper wire that fits and I can shrink tube it? I dont think I can just twist them and solder them together after being cut cause their length is shorter now

I really dont want to lose out on these headphones.

I just need help finding the supplies i need to somehow repair them

 

[HiGHFLYiN9]

Which headphone is it? Can you take another photo of the whole situation? The colored wires are enameled so they need to have that scraped off with a razor or warmed up with a hot iron and solder before attempting to solder them back together. The problem is sometimes cheaper wire just falls apart from too much heat. If you can remove the enamel successfully, you'd want to slip a piece of adhesive heatshrink over the wire, then solder the colored wires are soldered back together (but kept separate from other colors so they don't short), then you can wrap them with electrical tape individually, then slide the adhesive heatshrink over the exposed wires and heat it up to keep things in place.

If the wire's too cheap and starts falling apart or burning up, then you'd be best off just recabling the headphone, or shipping it back to the manufacturer for repair.

 

[aceofpilots]

Which headphone is it? Can you take another photo of the whole situation? The colored wires are enameled so they need to have that scraped off with a razor or warmed up with a hot iron and solder before attempting to solder them back together. The problem is sometimes cheaper wire just falls apart from too much heat. If you can remove the enamel successfully, you'd want to slip a piece of adhesive heatshrink over the wire, then solder the colored wires are soldered back together (but kept separate from other colors so they don't short), then you can wrap them with electrical tape individually, then slide the adhesive heatshrink over the exposed wires and heat it up to keep things in place.

If the wire's too cheap and starts falling apart or burning up, then you'd be best off just recabling the headphone, or shipping it back to the manufacturer for repair.

I know the process. I didn't really word it right cause i was upset.

the cable in the picture is from the right ear cup which is now completely separated from the headband. There's only 2 cores in it. The right red channel copper and the ground bare copper.

The other end of the wire is still attached to the headband.

the problem is if i try to solder them, they wont reach each other cause there isn't enough slack.

So I'm more so curious on how to extend the length so i can solder or where and what kind of cable I can use to replace it or splice together

 

[HiGHFLYiN9]

I'd recommend stranded 26 gauge copper. Dielectric doesn't really matter in this case, so PVC, PE, PTFE would all be fine.

 

[aceofpilots]

I'd recommend stranded 26 gauge copper. Dielectric doesn't really matter in this case, so PVC, PE, PTFE would all be fine.

Is 26 AWG the standard that used in the headbands and connected to drivers?

what I'll need to do is strip the shielding of both ends, then solder the wires together with copper wire and the heat shrink them but like I said I dont know what cable to use.

What size heat shrink would i need?

That's what it looks like but for the right channel.

 

[HiGHFLYiN9]

26-28 is pretty common. 26 is a little easier to work with. 1/8" to 3/16" for the heatshrink should be close.

 

[aceofpilots]

26-28 is pretty common. 26 is a little easier to work with. 1/8" to 3/16" for the heatshrink should be close.

So just look on ebay or amazon for "26 (or 28) AWG copper stranded wire"

then I can just splice the two ends together (connect the grounds together and the red copper wire together) and it should work again?

 

[HiGHFLYiN9]

You'd probably have better luck on ebay for the wire.

Make sure to isolate the ground from the signal... but yeah, that's the gist of it. If you don't use adhesive, it will probably just fall apart again in a few days.

 

[aceofpilots]

You'd probably have better luck on ebay for the wire.

Make sure to isolate the ground from the signal... but yeah, that's the gist of it. If you don't use adhesive, it will probably just fall apart again in a few days.

So this kind of stuff? https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...gauge+stranded+copper+wire+ofc&LH_TitleDesc=0

then i guess isolate the ground, connect it to that and then connect it to the end.

Do the same for the signal line

and then this https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Ft-BLACK...h=item239d6ae5e1:g:zAMAAOSwNMVaWV95:rk:4:pf:0 after Its soldered?

I thought I was gonna need 2 core copper wire or something?

 

[PointyFox]

You could also just un-solder the broken cable from both earcups then solder on an unbroken cable, like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/DIY-3-5mm-...ble-Maintenance-Wire-Without-MIC/263269730081
It's easier, more durable, and you get a bonus of picking whatever wire you want. It doesn't have to be one that costs $1.83 with free shipping.

 

[aceofpilots]

You could also just un-solder the broken cable from both earcups then solder on an unbroken cable, like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/DIY-3-5mm-...ble-Maintenance-Wire-Without-MIC/263269730081
It's easier, more durable, and you get a bonus of picking whatever wire you want. It doesn't have to be one that costs $1.83 with free shipping.

the headphones don't have a headphone cable but rather just a 3.5mm port

the left cup works fine and is attached to the headband

the whole right ear cup broke off the head band and the wire snapped.

That's what I want to reconnect and I'm worried to **** with the left channel by de-soldering and then damaging the entire thing

 

[HiGHFLYiN9]

So this kind of stuff? https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...gauge+stranded+copper+wire+ofc&LH_TitleDesc=0

then i guess isolate the ground, connect it to that and then connect it to the end.

Do the same for the signal line

and then this https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Ft-BLACK...h=item239d6ae5e1:g:zAMAAOSwNMVaWV95:rk:4:pf:0 after Its soldered?

I thought I was gonna need 2 core copper wire or something?

Yup, this is fine. You can do what Pointy Fox said too. If you decide to go that route, make sure not to heat the solder taps very long as that's a common way that people new to soldering damage drivers.