money4me247
Headphoneus Supremus
- Joined
- Jan 27, 2013
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Nonsense. Have you even heard the Sony? If not, buy it, then use that calibration profile. You can activate and deactivate it while listening. With it deactivated, it's pure murder your ears nastiness. With it activated, it sounds much more accurate. I hate dark headphones. I also hate bright headphones. I want accurate headphones that sound the closest to real life and/or the recording. I wish people would stop making claims about me that have nothing to do with reality. I hate to break it to you, but a headphone being used in "professional applications" means absolutely nothing other than the fact that marketing convinced them to use it. If you click the link I provided, it illustrates how much extra treble the headphone adds.
Also, don't you remember my comments about the Focal Spirit Professional and HD 650 being too dark?
And by the way, my current favorite headphone (Yamaha HPH-MT220) is slightly bright.
@Music Alchemist,
...and you do realize that you canNOT take a single random graph (which uses a very different measuring protocol and applies an unknown proprietary compensation curve) and compare it to any other frequency response measurement made by any other source?? Basically, meaning that measurement you linked is useless since you don't know how any other headphone will look on it. The only other headphone they measured was the ATH-M50 which displays a similar 7dB spike in that region. If you actually volume match their 'proprietary compensated' measurements based on the midrange, they have a similar ~13dB difference between the midrange and their "treble spike."
In a properly compensated FR measurement of the MDR-7506, there is a ~3dB bump in the 10kHz region compared to the midrange and even then, the most prominent aspect of its FR curve would be the 4dB bump at about 300-400 Hz. That is why people traditionally think of the MDR-7506 has more neutral. Hell, most people would call the MDR-7506 more mid-centric first over bright. If you volume match the MDR-7506 with the M50 based on the mid-range, you will find that the treble peak at 10kHz actually will sound relatively sharper on the M50 over the MDR-7506. This is the REASON that your method of doing a quick 5 minute demo with one headphone and then waiting 3 weeks before trying another random pair of headphones will NOT show you the actual relative differences between headphones and is extremely subjective to expectation bias (aka you reading random FR curves on the internet or what random head-fi say about headphones).
If you are going to pull random measurements from the web to support your opinion, at least pull a measurement from an actual legitimate headphone data base where there is more than two headphones measured lol.
ATH-M50 vs Sony V6 - (the v-shaped version of the mdr-7506 with a sharper spike in that region)
Note how that treble peak that you are complaining about measured out to be exactly the same, but will be more obvious on the more colored ATH-M50, which you don't throw the same negative descriptor of a nasty treble peak. The MDR-7506 is relatively LESS bright than the MDR-V6.
In a properly compensated FR measurement of the MDR-7506, there is a ~3dB bump in the 10kHz region compared to the midrange and even then, the most prominent aspect of its FR curve would be the 4dB bump at about 300-400 Hz. That is why people traditionally think of the MDR-7506 has more neutral. Hell, most people would call the MDR-7506 more mid-centric first over bright. If you volume match the MDR-7506 with the M50 based on the mid-range, you will find that the treble peak at 10kHz actually will sound relatively sharper on the M50 over the MDR-7506. This is the REASON that your method of doing a quick 5 minute demo with one headphone and then waiting 3 weeks before trying another random pair of headphones will NOT show you the actual relative differences between headphones and is extremely subjective to expectation bias (aka you reading random FR curves on the internet or what random head-fi say about headphones).
If you are going to pull random measurements from the web to support your opinion, at least pull a measurement from an actual legitimate headphone data base where there is more than two headphones measured lol.
ATH-M50 vs Sony V6 - (the v-shaped version of the mdr-7506 with a sharper spike in that region)
Note how that treble peak that you are complaining about measured out to be exactly the same, but will be more obvious on the more colored ATH-M50, which you don't throw the same negative descriptor of a nasty treble peak. The MDR-7506 is relatively LESS bright than the MDR-V6.
lol, honestly I think it is probably impossible for anyone to keep track of all the random negatives you attach to headphones after a 5 minute demo. Perhaps you can replace your wishlist with just a list of headphone name and flaw. Then you can use that list to figure out actually what type of sound signature you want rather than just repeating stating you want an "accurate realistic neutral" sound signature when there are a multitude of options that fall within that spectrum that you already arbitrarily decided not to try because someone on the internet stated they sound dark. Just fyi, it's a relative dark!!! The Audeze LCD-X may be called 'dark,' but since you are so into measurements, look at how these headphones actually relatively compare during a full spectrum sine sweep. (note the dip at 7kHz is an artifact due to my ear shape). These are measurements I've taken using the same exact protocol and set-up.
LCD-X pink noise log sweep (sometimes called dark)
AKG K553 pink noise log sweep (called neutral to slightly warm)
Hifiman HE-560 pink noise log sweep (called neutral to slightly bright)
Oppo PM-3 pink noise log sweep (called neutral or slightly warm)
So from everything you say, you say you want a straight line. There are 4 straight line options that are described from dark to warm to neutral to bright to whatever... etc. The relative measured differences between them are not dramatic despite what people say about their sound signature on the head-fi forums. They ALL measure extremely well and sound basically "neutral."
*********************************************************************************************************
Now you say that the LCD-X is too dark and colored for you. Let's look at FR curves.
LCD-X vs the HD800 (which has too weak bass and too bright treble for you)
analysis: bass actually about the same, treble FIXED.
LCD-X vs HE-6 (slightly too bright for you)
analysis: treble FIXED. note HE-6's treble is actually much brighter than the HD800!!
LCD-X vs the HE-1000, too warm for you (aka too much bass) & treble peaks.
analysis: bass is about the same, treble peaks SUBDUED, issues FIXED!
So basically, the HD800 (bass too weak for you) and the HE-1000 (bass too much for you) measure to have about the same linear bass response... like is also the same as the LCD-X (which is too dark for you). The HD800 and HE-6 is too bright for you. The HE-1000 still has too much treble peakiness for you. The LCD-X has less treble than all three of those flagship options that you are complaining about. It also has adequate bass emphasis (since that linear bass measurement can be both too much or too little for you).
Now let's look at comparative FR responses based on my vague recollection of your headphone complaints. LCD-X in red.
LCD-X vs headphones you find too dark (ATH-M50, HD650, Spirit One) = LCD-X is less dark; Issue FIXED
LCD-X vs headphones you find too bright (7506, HD800, HE-6) = LCD-X is less bright; Issue FIXED
LCD-X vs headphones you generally like (DT880, HD770)
***Please note that these headphones you like are actually much BRIGHTER than the headphones you complain of being TOO BRIGHT (???)***
Yes, measurements don't tell the whole story, but you keep bringing up measurements and your desire for a flat neutral line etc etc, so here is a comprehensive measurement analysis on your personal preferences. The conclusion should be quite obvious. You either actually want something a bit darker than neutral or what you want changes every time you try a new pair of headphones.
So, you MAY be getting tired of hearing people tell you that you want a dark headphone, but I am most definitely tired of you proclaiming that you want the "most accurate neutral life-like" headphones while trashing headphones that measure extremely well (as "too bright") and refusing to consider headphones that measure just as well (but are just subtly darker than the headphones you yourself claim to be "too bright").
.....?!?W!?!?T!?!?F?!?.....
I think it might be time for me to use that block feature.