[skanan]

Beside size, I'd like to know why can't we use amp/receiver to be a head phone amp if the amp/receiver meet this condition

1. Have low distortion

2. Can drive high impedance load without high frequency lost.

3. Have fairly flat response: let's say within 0.1 db of frequency we can hear.

4. Have volume control and line input.

5. Have headphone output or else I can make my own headphone output from speaker tab.

I raise this question because certain headphone amps are quite expensive compare to receiver and/or amp.

-Nick

 

[fewtch]

The short answer is: no reason. Listen, and if it sounds good then by all means! Use it... save some money. At the moment, that's what I'm doing with my turntable and an 80's vintage Sony power amp (huge transformer/heatsink, all discreet components). There's a bit of hiss from the headphone out, but also a sweetness and sense of authority I never heard from my Creek OBH-11... it synergizes well with my preamp and phono cartridge.

The main downside -- uses more electricity (sometimes a lot more... the amp I mentioned is rated at 115 watts, and the room light dims a little when I turn it on). I just turn it off in between listening sessions though, and let it warm up about a half hour before listening.

 

[Kieran Comito]

I guess the Sony R 10s were originally made for use with a power amp. It had an adaptor. Since the R 10s seem to be real amp dependent, I wonder what they would sound like with a 100 watts of power to work with?

 

[dd3mon]

I think the main issue would be attenuation. With some simple wiring, any headphone can be connected to the speaker outputs of a regular power amp - but the amount of power provided by the amp would be very difficult to control with a standard volume control. I would think overdriving cans to unsafe levels (dangerous to hearing and the cans themselves) would be quite easy. It may be worth a shot, but be careful, and try with some cheap headphones (that aren't near your ears) first

-dd3mon

 

[Hirsch]

Quote:

Originally posted by Kieran Comito I guess the Sony R 10s were originally made for use with a power amp. It had an adaptor. Since the R 10s seem to be real amp dependent, I wonder what they would sound like with a 100 watts of power to work with?

The R10 has a maximum power handling capability of 1 watt. I'd hesitate about throwing 100 watts at them. Might be nothing left but a pile of smoldering zelkova wood

There are several adapters that will attenuate a power amp signal so that it can drive headphones. The Sony adapter is long unavailable. However, the ASL UHC Signature will do it. The Radii Audio HAP-04 can also adapt speaker amp output for headphones. Joe Grado drew up a resistor attenuator for using the HP-1000 with a power amp. That should be posted around here somewhere.

 

[Kieran Comito]

Quote:

Originally posted by Hirsch The R10 has a maximum power handling capability of 1 watt. I'd hesitate about throwing 100 watts at them. Might be nothing left but a pile of smoldering zelkova wood There are several adapters that will attenuate a power amp signal so that it can drive headphones. The Sony adapter is long unavailable. However, the ASL UHC Signature will do it. The Radii Audio HAP-04 can also adapt speaker amp output for headphones. Joe Grado drew up a resistor attenuator for using the HP-1000 with a power amp. That should be posted around here somewhere.

Shows you what I know.

 

[Stoney]

Forgive me if this is old news around here, but the following adapter sounded quite good using a Dynaco Stereo 70 and Grado SR-125.

The above requires a volume control on the source or a passive attenuator or preamp on the amp's input.

A variation:

These are from HeadWize - Headphone FAQs, diagrams for adapting headphones to power amplifiers. See it for resistances and wattages.

Here is a picture of my prototype (using cheap materials... I'd use better cable, connector, and resistors for one that I would use on a regular basis):

 

[fliz]

the old grado hp-1000s come w/ a diagram for a cable to connect them to a power amp.

has anybody tried this? hirsch said that they open up w/ power (when he listened to them out his singlepower), so a poweramp seems like it would be good for them.

id have somebody build me the cable, but i dont have a power amp. ...or a pair of monoblocks

(that should be a hp-1000 smile).

 

[Rameish]

A somewhat related question I guess: Why can't we use the Pre-Amp's output to drive a headphone. I did ask this question some years back in AudioAsylum - the short answer is no you can't. The Pre-Amp output was not designed to drive impedences as low as 300 or even 600 ohm loads.

Getting back on track an integrated amp or power amp should be able to do the job with a resistor network of sorts.

I don't pretend to understand thses things but that's my 2¢ worth.

 

[Dusty Chalk]

Quote:

Originally posted by Rameish A somewhat related question I guess: Why can't we use the Pre-Amp's output to drive a headphone. I did ask this question some years back in AudioAsylum - the short answer is no you can't. The Pre-Amp output was not designed to drive impedences as low as 300 or even 600 ohm loads. Getting back on track an integrated amp or power amp should be able to do the job with a resistor network of sorts. I don't pretend to understand thses things but that's my 2¢ worth.

Actually, you can, and I do. It depends on the pre. My MF A3^CR sounds pretty damn sweet, plus it has a built-in phono stage. I'd stay away from passives, though.

 

[Rameish]

Dusty,

I was gonna try this with my EAR-834L toob Pre-Amp. But I din not dare try it for fear of damading something (amp or headphone).

How does it sound in your setup?

Thanks

 

[Sovkiller]

Quote:

Originally posted by fewtch The short answer is: no reason. Listen, and if it sounds good then by all means! Use it... save some money. At the moment, that's what I'm doing with my turntable and an 80's vintage Sony power amp (huge transformer/heatsink, all discreet components). There's a bit of hiss from the headphone out, but also a sweetness and sense of authority I never heard from my Creek OBH-11... it synergizes well with my preamp and phono cartridge. The main downside -- uses more electricity (sometimes a lot more... the amp I mentioned is rated at 115 watts, and the room light dims a little when I turn it on). I just turn it off in between listening sessions though, and let it warm up about a half hour before listening.

fewtch even when I agree with you in some points, and please don't take it personally, and no offense on that, but comparing a nice vintage speaker amp, with the OBH11, is a little overkill, don't you think? The OBH11 is an small amp, does the job, but in any way I would consider it, as a reference for any comparison...just IMO of course...

 

[fewtch]

Quote:

Originally posted by Sovkiller fewtch even when I agree with you in some points, and please don't take it personally, and no offense on that, but comparing a nice vintage speaker amp, with the OBH11, is a little overkill, don't you think?

Sovkiller, have you personally heard the OBH-11 with a linear regulated power supply (OBH-2 or Elpac WM080)? Or the vintage Sony amp (TA-AX205) that I mentioned earlier?

That's all I'm going to ask, and if you answer yes then we have some grounds for discussion. Otherwise, we have none and I think you have a lot to learn about audio.

Please answer my question, then I'll answer yours.

 

[Sovkiller]

Quote:

Originally posted by fewtch Sovkiller, have you personally heard the OBH-11 with a linear regulated power supply (OBH-2 or Elpac WM080)? That's all I'm going to ask, and if you answer yes then we have some grounds for discussion. Otherwise, we have none and I think you have a lot to learn about audio. Please answer my question, then I'll answer yours.

Well first I will quote this from PinkFloyd's posts, not mine OK?:

Quote:

Originally posted by PinkFloyd Had my Creek all of one week and can honestly say the headphone output from my audiolab 8000A amp does much the same job. Time to get under the bonnet to see what was going on: After removing the screws and pulling out the PCB I had to go and get a beer to calm my nerves when I saw the cheap components that were attached to the board! The largest capacitor was a "Samwha" 35v 2200uF and the rest were a mixture of "Nichicon" and "panasonic" caps. After doing a bit of research here is the price list (UK) for the capacitors and pot.. the prices will obviously be cheaper for the manufacturer as they buy in bulk. Samwha 35v 2200uF £0.11 Nichicon 35v 220uF £0.01 Nichicon 50v 47uF £0.03 Nichicon 25v 220uF £0.01 Panasonic 63v 47uF £0.09 (for 3 of them) Alps Potentiometer £0.39 All resistors £0.25 Total: £0.79 p I've got to do a "ball park" on the other components, including the case and power supply and reckon on around £2.30 which gives Creek and the middleman £125 of profit to split between them. I was "horrified" to see such crappy componentry inside such a well made little box and there is no need to employ such cheap stuff into a design. It's an example of cutting costs to the bone. So you will be thinking the amp is going back to the shop?? No way! I have ordered up some ELNA cerafine and Tonorex caps of the same values on the OBH 11 board and am going to replace the crappy caps with these which I am sure will make a HUGE difference to the sound. They cost me £23.00 for the 7 capacitors so they have got to be better than the 25 pence Creek stock capacitors. I hope to get the caps installed by the end of the week and I'll give them a further week to form (burn in) and will then come back and report on the difference, if any, to the sound. If good I will upload the full parts list and photos to my website so other Creek owners can have a go at upgrading to better caps. For those of you in a hurry here are the ELNA part numbers you'll need: ROA - 35v221MP9 ROA - 50v470MP9 ROA - 25v221MP9 ROA - 63v470MP9 x 3 ROB - 35v222MK8 Dunno about you guys but I don't expect to find capacitors costing one penny inside a Hi-Fi product. If Marantz can afford to use ELNA silmic caps in their budget CD players then Creek can do likewise. The only real part of this amp that leans toward "quality" is the case.. the rest of the components belong in the dustbin as far as I'm concerned. I'm sure this amp will shine though when the signal is going through quality caps ROA

Read my profile, please, I returned one the same week I got it, power supply included, IMO the OBH11, is a piece of junk, but just IMO....I preffer the edcor 2020, a 40.00 amp, no ofense but I think just reading the above, a lot of crappy parts inside, flimsy construction, week power, and I do not like it a little bit, yes I have heard it, and I do not like it, but as it seems to bother you I won't discuss that with you, OK? ...BTW, yes I have a lot to learn in audio, but not from you......please!!!!!

 

[fewtch]

Quote:

Originally posted by Sovkiller Read my profile, please, I returned one the same week I got it, power supply included, IMO the OBH11, is a piece of junk, but just IMO....I preffer the edcor 2020, a 40.00 amp, no ofense but I think just reading the above, a lot of crappy parts inside, flimsy construction, week power, and I do not like it a little bit, yes I have heard it, and I do not like it, but as it seems to bother you I won't discuss that with you, OK? ...BTW, yes I have a lot to learn in audio, but not from you......please!!!!!

Then stop replying to my posts. I'm perfectly happy to not discuss audio with you (7,418 members here), but as long as you reply to what I say, don't you expect a reply in return?

BTW it would help if you would stop thread crapping too. Please note the topic of this thread.