What's the best inexpensive amp for driving both high AND low impedance headphones?

[Imyourzero]

I'm interested in getting a headphone amp and would like it to have great sound quality, yet be flexible enough to drive just about any headphone that I would connect to it. I've read on here that some amps shine with low impedance cans while others are better suited for high impedance cans.

At the moment, the amp will be for driving my SR-80's as well as my HD-580's, but I'm also looking into getting the following cans in the future -- AT A900, HD-595, and MS-2.

I don't want to spend over $150-$200 on the amp at this point. Perhaps later, if I get REALLY serious, I'll upgrade. I know there are several advocates here of buying things once and doing it "right" the first time, but I just don't want to drop half a grand on an amp right now.

I have occasionally seen used Gilmore Lites for under $200. Would that be a good bet (do Gils work great with high and low impedances)? What about a PPA or even a Headsave Classic/Ultra?

Thanks for any suggestions.

 

[Imyourzero]

LOL, 64 views and not one reply. Is my question that difficult?

Let me ask another, then: does an amp's ability to effectively drive high and low impedance headphones depend more upon the amp itself and the parts used in construction, or does it depend simply upon the gain? The reason I ask is because I just saw a Headsave PPA up for sale in the classifieds and the seller noted that the gain is set "just right" so that the amp works well with high and low impedance headphones.

 

[Kirosia]

I think some amps just do better with certain phones, it doesn't just depend on impedance on and gain, which matter nonetheless. Some amps are made specifically for low-z or high-z. Some are tailored to a certain phone. Others are all-around. For your price range, I think a Pimeta would do real good (w/ the gain adjusted of course). Or a headsave classic w/ the right op-amp. A PPA would be out of your range. Never tried the gilmore lite, can't say.

Also, the improvement an amp brings relies on your source and phones as well.

 

[Jitsu]

I'm a fellow noob looking for teh exact same piece of equipment that you are. A good, relatively cheap amp that will work well with any pair of cans I hook up to it.

I've decided to purcahse the Gilmore Lite.

 

[GlowWorm]

You might seriously consider picking up a used MG Head OTL. The HD580's sound excellent with it, and contrary to popular opinion around here it will work quite well with Grado's provided that you use the transformer jack.

 

[Jahn]

there is also a corda HA-1 on sale under 200 in the for sale forums - that should also do the trick for you (from what i've read on head-fi)

 

[Kirosia]

I second GlowWorm, I've got the mg-head otl, and I think it's a great amp for the price. (Try to get a used one with upgraded tubes). I use them with my Dt880s, and they sound damn good.

 

[kentamcolin]

You might have a hard time finding a good MG Head OTL with upgraded tubes for under $200. It's a good amp when good tubes are installed, but not to good with stock or cheap tubes. Quality control is a problem with these too, although if it's been working for a while you'll likely be OK. Ask about the faceplate before you buy. Many had crooked faceplates and that may bother you. Another option might be a used Grado amp. New they are $350 so used should be near your budget. They work great with Grado's, of course, but many like them with Senn's as well. It doesn't look like much, just a little wood box, but it does sound very good (I used to own one).

 

[shimage]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Imyourzero LOL, 64 views and not one reply. Is my question that difficult? Let me ask another, then: does an amp's ability to effectively drive high and low impedance headphones depend more upon the amp itself and the parts used in construction, or does it depend simply upon the gain? The reason I ask is because I just saw a Headsave PPA up for sale in the classifieds and the seller noted that the gain is set "just right" so that the amp works well with high and low impedance headphones.

Some amps (like the Gilmores?) use FETs on the output stage, which means that they can supply enough current for any pair of headphones (people here say that opamps can't put out enough current, so unbuffered designs might have a harder time driving, say, CD3000s). But that's independent of the gain. What the fella means when he says the gain is set just right, is that it's probably around 4--6 (12--16 dB), so that the volume knob is in the right range regardless of what cans you're using.

You might consider some of Xin's amps, though they're more portable than not. The SuperMono is supposed to come out at $200.

 

[Hirsch]

Xin has upgraded his line many times since I bought my Super-mini. However, that little amp can drive Grado's, Sennheisers, and even the AKG K-1000. I kid you not.

 

[Imyourzero]

Wow, thanks for the replies and opinions guys.

I like the sounds of the Gilmore Lite and the Corda HA-1...and it seems that I could get a used unit of either one for under $200. Which do you guys think would be the better amp between those 2?

And as far as Xin's amps go, what's the difference between the Supermini and the Superdual?

 

[KurtW]

High impedance headphones need lots of voltage, and low impedance headphones need lots of current, as well as a low impedance output from the amp. There are many amps around that can do both well, although its more common with solid state amps. Tube amps are usually best at one or the other depending on their design, although some like the MG Head OTL has two different types of outputs available so it can do both.

For high impedance phones, the power supply voltage is very important since you will always get less voltage out than the power supply gives in. If the power supply voltage is marginal, then the circuit selection can make a difference between being good enough or not. Most DIY type designs like the PPA and META42 for example, can be used with a wide range of power supply voltages so you can't say they will work well with high impedance phones unless you establish more design parameters, especially the power supply voltage. An amp with a 24v power supply would be a safe bet for the HD580s, although you might be able to get by with less.

For low impedance phones, having beefy, high current output devices is good. Having a 24v power supply probably wouldn't be necessary but it doesn't hurt anything either, and then you have an amp that is capable of driving most headphones.

Another consideration besides being able to drive the headphone of choice is how it sounds with that headphone. Although to a much lesser degree than headphones, amps do have different sonic signatures.

 

[johnjac]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Imyourzero Wow, thanks for the replies and opinions guys. I like the sounds of the Gilmore Lite and the Corda HA-1...and it seems that I could get a used unit of either one for under $200. Which do you guys think would be the better amp between those 2? And as far as Xin's amps go, what's the difference between the Supermini and the Superdual?

I own both Xin amps and to me while the super-mini sounds very nice and plays forever on its 3 aaa batteries,the superdual seems to be a bit more"refined" overall.

 

[tortie]

For your price range I would go for a used Grado RA-1 amp. Although some people here think that it is just an overpriced cmoy in a wooden box, it does sound great with low and high impedance amps and delivers clean pure music. I once had it with my Grado RS-1 and HD-600 and it drove both cans w/o any problems. Great amp IMO and should deserve a strong consideration.

 

[Old Pa]

Think about a Porta CORDA with a 24VDC wallwart (with good amperage) for when mains power is available. This gets you a good portable amp (which you are gonna want anyway) that will drive high and low impedance cans. The sound on high impedance cans is significantly better with the higher voltage supplied by the wallwart. Should whet your appetite for a real home amp . . . . . and then a better source . . . . . and then some nifty interconnects and cables . . . . . so $150 to $200 seems like nothing