What portable amp should I make?
Jan 2, 2010 at 5:55 PM Thread Starter Post #1 of 17
kshelton

kshelton

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Ok I am really confused about all these DIY amps. I want to make a small portable amp to use with my Cowon S9 and HD25's. Cmoy amps seem ok but I am looking for a sound improvement not just amplification, and doesn't sound like that will get it done. I have heard about the Pint amps a little but they just seem like high end cmoy amps. Also I am a wood worker and I am planning on making a custom exotic wood enclosure for my amp
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. I have never made anything like this but with some instructions I know I could make something a little more complex than a cmoy. Can someone point me in the right direction on where to make something like this?

Ok so reading through I have found these options.

Pimeta V2
Mini3
JDS lab cmoy

Is these the best as far as portable go? How do these stack up against manufactured headphone amps? Thanks for any advice you can give.
 
Jan 2, 2010 at 7:49 PM Post #2 of 17
The JDS labs cmoy isn't in the same class as the other two but is very inexpensive to build and offers good performance for what it is. It is a total PITA to get the board into the holes in the case, I'm not at all a fan of the layout.

I've built a few Mini3's and know the in and outs of it well. I can't compare the sound to the Pimeta because I haven't built one yet. The Mini3 is very much "mission specific" in that it is built for the Hammond 801/2 case. It is an extremely well designed amp and will hold its own against some desktop amps ( Sold my LD Mk3 and use the Mini3 with a wallwart - less "punch" but waaaay less distortion).

The Pimeta looks to be more extensible/customizable and probably better suited for a desktop amp situation than the Mini3 but as far as a "portable" amp the Mini3 is hard to beat.
 
Jan 2, 2010 at 8:22 PM Post #3 of 17
I've built the Carrie (USB powered Mini^3) and I've got a Pimeta V1 and V2. With the grubDAC (or BantamDAC) in the 1455C801 case, the Carrie is a decent integrated package with good sound. I've never heard a Mini^3 so I can't say how the power supply is affecting the sound of the Carrie.

I'm running my Pimeta's with OPA2107 for the left and right op-amp, being powered by 12xAAA. I do prefer the sound of the Pimeta, but it is in a bigger case (Hammond 1455J1201). The Pimetas just sound smoother to my ears. The Pimeta does give you the chance to play with the sound by changing op-amps (if you use DIP ones).
 
Jan 2, 2010 at 8:45 PM Post #7 of 17
Depends on how you look at it. All the Mini3's outputs and inputs are designed for the 801/2 enclosure. If you want to build something exactly fitting those dimensions then it makes sense.

Since you're designing your own enclosure I would lean more towards the Pimeta.
 
Jan 2, 2010 at 9:19 PM Post #9 of 17
It's seldom a problem to build your own enclosure, but there are a few things to keep in mind.

First, you'll basically need to match your wood panels to the mini3 panels or wire up chassis-mount components to the board. While the latter could be simpler, it has the potential to be frustrating to wire and difficult to fit everything depending on the size of the case you're aiming for. If you decide to use the stock board-mount components, you may have issues with regards to the headphone jacks, the DC jack, and the thickness of wood. The aluminum panels that AMB sells are around 2mm thick and the stock jacks are spec'd to mount flush with that thickness panel. Thicker and the jacks might not be able to make good contact.

Second, the mini3 seems to only have 2 screw holes that can be used for mounting, one underneath the battery and one for the 7812. This is probably enough, but if you want to mount your battery on the PCB you might have issues depending on the screw you choose. You also might end up with a couple of unsightly screws coming through your wood if you don't plan for them.

I don't mean to discourage you, but the portableness of your mini3 might get touchy depending on your enclosure. The mini3 really was designed to slide right into a Hammond.

EDIT: CodeToad beat me to it.

For what it's worth, the PPAv2 costs around $200 to build with a TREAD et al. A good link to have around is the HeadWize DIY amp offerings page.
 
Jan 2, 2010 at 11:46 PM Post #11 of 17
Quote:

Originally Posted by kshelton /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Yeah I think the Mini³ with the standard enclosure will be my best bet. Maybe I will make a PPAv2 in a customer enclosure down the road.


Good choice. You wont be disappointed!
 
Jan 2, 2010 at 11:49 PM Post #12 of 17
Is the kit I posted for 89$ a pretty decent price for all the parts to make a Mini³? It includes everything needed to make the amp including the enclosure.
 
Jan 3, 2010 at 12:02 AM Post #13 of 17
Glass Jar's kits are all extremely well priced. They come to around the same price you'd pay shipped from Mouser/Digikey/etc., but also have all the parts in the right quantities.

For the mini3, the custom end panels aren't included in the kit but are available at $40 extra. I'd ask Jeff at Glass Jar Audio via email for them unless you want to mill panels yourself. I'd suspect that the kit comes with the blank panels that come with the Hammond enclosure if you don't order the custom panels, but again I'd ask Jeff about it.
 
Jan 3, 2010 at 12:09 AM Post #14 of 17
Isn't the customer end panels just the mini3 engraving and such? Because that would bring the price to about 130 and you can buy an already made mini3 for about 150.... I might just buy one already assembled. But if the custom panel doesn't really include anything useful I will just pass on it.

Edit: ok so I would have to drill the holes myself. I have a drill press I will handle that myself and save 40$.
 
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