What do I need, to hook up my new amp/dac with sources?
Oct 25, 2018 at 5:31 PM Thread Starter Post #1 of 4

Megazine

New Head-Fier
Joined
Aug 13, 2011
Posts
39
Likes
25
I'm new with amp/dac's, and I'm not sure of the best ways to hook up my sources. I just pulled the trigger on the "Massdrop Liquid Carbon X + SDAC DAC/Amp" and I'm planning of driving them with all my headphones. My sources are as follows:


Apple TV (4th Gen)- Does not have an optical out; only HDMI.


MacBook Pro(Only has USB-C)


iPhone XS Max(I own a USB/Lightning adapter)


Xbox One X- This one seems straightforward since it offers a lot of options.


Pioneer Elite Receiver-Most of my sources run off it. For simplicity reasons, is it possible to keep my sources connected to my receiver, and just passing sound to my LCX? I believe it only has one HDMI-passthrough, if that matters.


I'm very excited to test out the LCX. I just need help on what cables I should buy and, which adapters are needed to hook up my sources.
 

Attachments

  • HbzzzgZxSYWCbHYHMzhLjg.jpg
    HbzzzgZxSYWCbHYHMzhLjg.jpg
    2.1 MB · Views: 0
Oct 26, 2018 at 12:09 AM Post #2 of 4

ProtegeManiac

Headphoneus Supremus
Joined
Oct 29, 2009
Posts
16,438
Likes
3,135
Location
Manila
Least Effort solution: Don't use the SDAC section with the XBox and Apple TV because there's hardly any device out there that converts SPDIF to USB (not to mention you only have just one USB input, drivers might not work, etc etc), then get dongles for the Macook and iPhone. If the latter two don't work with the dongles, or only the iPhone works but you really want to use the Macbook because you don't have Tidal and your iPhone has no 512gb microSD to have all the music in it (with apps and photos on internal 128gb) sell the Liquid Carbon X+SDAC.

If your receiver has a Zone 2 output, make sure the XBox and AppleTV connect to it, then hook up the Zone2 RCA output to the RCA inputs on the Liquid Carbon X section's analogue RCA input.


Simplest solution
: Cancel the Liquid Carbon X+SDAC, get something like an AudioGD NFB-11 that has SPDIF inputs, then get an HDTV and HT Receiver with HDMI2.0 ARC and optical output (check if your current HDTV and receiver have this), maybe get a dongle for the Macbook. Note: might still not work.

Macbook via USB (via dongle) direct into NFB-11, swap out cables when using iPhone XS Max via dongle; connect Apple TV, Xbox, and receiver to HDTV via HDMI 2.0, connect HDTV to NFB-11 via optical output from HDTV, then just configure on the HDTV whether you want the sound to go to the receiver or to the NFB-11.

If USB-C doesn't work maybe wait until there are USB to SPDIF converters and get one that converts to coaxial, then connect that to the NFB-11.


Long term solution: Cancel the Liquid Carbon X+SDAC, wait for USB drivers to get sorted out, then buy whatever DAC (and an HPamp) or DAC-HPamp with USB and SPDIF inputs.
 
Last edited:
Oct 26, 2018 at 12:04 PM Post #3 of 4

Megazine

New Head-Fier
Joined
Aug 13, 2011
Posts
39
Likes
25
Least Effort solution: Don't use the SDAC section with the XBox and Apple TV because there's hardly any device out there that converts SPDIF to USB (not to mention you only have just one USB input, drivers might not work, etc etc), then get dongles for the Macook and iPhone. If the latter two don't work with the dongles, or only the iPhone works but you really want to use the Macbook because you don't have Tidal and your iPhone has no 512gb microSD to have all the music in it (with apps and photos on internal 128gb) sell the Liquid Carbon X+SDAC.

If your receiver has a Zone 2 output, make sure the XBox and AppleTV connect to it, then hook up the Zone2 RCA output to the RCA inputs on the Liquid Carbon X section's analogue RCA input.


Simplest solution
: Cancel the Liquid Carbon X+SDAC, get something like an AudioGD NFB-11 that has SPDIF inputs, then get an HDTV and HT Receiver with HDMI2.0 ARC and optical output (check if your current HDTV and receiver have this), maybe get a dongle for the Macbook. Note: might still not work.

Macbook via USB (via dongle) direct into NFB-11, swap out cables when using iPhone XS Max via dongle; connect Apple TV, Xbox, and receiver to HDTV via HDMI 2.0, connect HDTV to NFB-11 via optical output from HDTV, then just configure on the HDTV whether you want the sound to go to the receiver or to the NFB-11.

If USB-C doesn't work maybe wait until there are USB to SPDIF converters and get one that converts to coaxial, then connect that to the NFB-11.


Long term solution: Cancel the Liquid Carbon X+SDAC, wait for USB drivers to get sorted out, then buy whatever DAC (and an HPamp) or DAC-HPamp with USB and SPDIF inputs.

Wow, this is far more complex than I thought. On my MacBook, I do have a USB-C to USB dongle. Not sure, what I will do, looks like I'm stuck just using my MacBook for the LCX, since everything else seems complex. My Receiver does have Zone 2, but I think it's for Left-Right banana plug inputs. I'm surprised how little choices I have.
 
Last edited:
Oct 26, 2018 at 1:23 PM Post #4 of 4

ProtegeManiac

Headphoneus Supremus
Joined
Oct 29, 2009
Posts
16,438
Likes
3,135
Location
Manila
Wow, this is far more complex than I thought. On my MacBook, I do have a USB-C to USB dongle. Not sure, what I will do, looks like I'm stuck just using my MacBook for the LCX, since everything else seems complex.

It can't but be somewhat complex since they all use different protocols and not all these function as easily as a hub the way the home theater receiver can. The TV kind of can do that with HDMI ARC. But again these are also why these get outdated sooner than amplifiers or speakers.


My Receiver does have Zone 2, but I think it's for Left-Right banana plug inputs. I'm surprised how little choices I have.

It can't be a banana plug input, the receiver is a receiver not a speaker. At worst that's a banana plug output but that is extremely rare (and old) way of doing it, ie, since it costs more money in parts and assembly (and complexity) to add two physical amp channels for Zone 2, this is basically still two other amp channels but there's a switcher after those amp channels that sends the signal out to Zone 2 when ordered to.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top