[Mentality]

Very interested to hear your thoughts on the Airmotiv 6s when you get them. I want to use them for a desktop set up and am a little concerned as to whether or not they will be overwhelming on a desktop. 

 

[theveterans]

Studio monitors that don't have bigger than 8" woofer and a tweeter won't be overwhelming on a near-field listening IMO.

 

[qiujiaheng]

Just got my Dynaudio BM5 compact. Pretty happy with its performance.

 

[nuraman00]

  Very interested to hear your thoughts on the Airmotiv 6s when you get them. I want to use them for a desktop set up and am a little concerned as to whether or not they will be overwhelming on a desktop. 

 
I compared the JBL LSR 308 and the Airmotiv 6s across 17 tracks.
 
There were only 2 tracks where I had a slight preference to the Airmotiv 6s.
 
Other than that, I couldn't tell them apart.
 
Because of that, the tiebreakers would be:
 
* Airmotiv 6s has a smaller footprint.
* JBL has noticeably louder hum.
 
Because of that, I'd go with the Airmotiv 6s.
 
I did miss the bass of having a subwoofer on 3 tracks.
 
Other than that, I liked the sound of both.
 
FYI, when I compared 3 headphones in 2014, I could tell the sound signature of each of them, and I had a preference on which headphone I liked each track with, on 11 of 26 tracks.  But with these speakers, I couldn't tell them apart.
 
I regret comparing two things too similar, and wish I had chosen one 2.1 system to compare against, or at least something that sounded different, so I could see if I had a preference.
 
It's too late into my 30 day return period to get something else and start comparing.  It would take a week for something to arrive, and then I'd need several days after that to test.
 
Sure, I could add on a sub, but that's not a priority for me.  It's only noticeable on a few tracks, and the overall sound is still good.  Plus I just wanted to compare one system vs. another, and not have to consider add ons.
 
Barring any sudden development, I'm going to initiate the return process for the JBL.
 
Question:  Should I be concerned about power usage?  Should I turn the speakers off when not in use?

 

[yay101]

You can always measure to be sure, but most A/B Amps will use negligible amounts of power at idle, and smartly designed class A will "power down" when not in use to a B class type backup. In either case we are talking 1-10 Watts draw. Older Amps are known to both have no idle mode and require heating to sound their best. If it's a built in amp it should advertise somewhere about low idle consumption, no manufacturer wants their amp getting hot (not operating temp) when not in use after all.

 

[nuraman00]

You can always measure to be sure, but most A/B Amps will use negligible amounts of power at idle, and smartly designed class A will "power down" when not in use to a B class type backup. In either case we are talking 1-10 Watts draw. Older Amps are known to both have no idle mode and require heating to sound their best. If it's a built in amp it should advertise somewhere about low idle consumption, no manufacturer wants their amp getting hot (not operating temp) when not in use after all.

 
Thanks.
 
The JBL says they are a class D.  A search about class D says that they are more efficient in their power output.
 
What you're saying about these amps being designed for low power consumption makes sense. 
 
Just wondering though, for my understanding, if there's a difference between the way you describe a class A powering down, and a class D.

 

[yay101]

It's way more complicated than I'm making it sound but:

Class A always running, newer designs use Smart switching techniques to flick over to a class B stage when no draw is occuring (idle).

Class A/B actually uses the class A side for amplification at lower volumes, then when the power is really needed they flick over to class AB to belt out the sound.

Class D is by far the most efficient and can be left on forever drawing next to nothing, they are nearing 100% efficiency in modern chip Amps. It's looked down on by amplifier purists as a "lesser" solution. And technically it is not as good as older more power hungry amp types.

But as I'm sure you are aware most people who listen to a good class D won't even be able to tell you that's what they are hearing. In fact one of smsl's class D Amps is among my favourites I have ever heard, and I've tried most amps that get overwhelming praise so don't feel like you are missing out at all. JBL know their business.

 

[theveterans]

 Class A/B actually uses the class B side for amplification at lower volumes, then when the power is really needed they flick over to class A to belt out the sound.

 
I think you got this part wrong. Class A/B uses class A for low power (i.e. headphones) while it switches to Class AB topology for loudspeaker operation (via gain switch). An example is Schiit Ragnarok.

 

[yay101]

I think you got this part wrong. Class A/B uses class A for low power (i.e. headphones) while it switches to Class AB topology for loudspeaker operation (via gain switch). An example is Schiit Ragnarok.

You are correct, I listed them backwards in the low volume section, but the power saving is correct. Poweramps use a bias method to switch to AB as soon as the load is too high for class A to not go full fireball, in reading it said a great class A has an efficiency of just 30%. Ouch.

 

[nuraman00]

Thank you.
 
What class amplifier does the Emotiva Airmotiv 6s have?  Just wondering.

 

[theveterans]

The airmotiv 5s has a Class AB amp.
 
http://www.trulynet.com/13040/Gadgets/audiophile-budget-big-sound-emotiva-airmotiv-5s/
 
All the Airmotiv family share the same amp with different power output as the you go up in woofer sizes.
 
Usually, Studio monitors with class AB amps have a finned heatsink for heat dissipation such as my Yamaha HS7. The heatsinks become warm, but not hot to touch unlike pure class A amp topology.

 

[Shermos]

Hi all, noobie here.
 
My Altec Lansing MX5021 set just died after 10 years of service. I really love these speakers, but it looks like they're beyond repair. I'm looking for a replacement as close to the same quality as I can get.
 
I'm leaning heavily towards the Swan M50W's. I'd appreciate hearing from anyone who's tried these or might have a better alternative.
 
Cheers.

 

[melen1717]

I would guess that your budget should be $250 to $300 (the Swans are $300) and at that price range there are quite a few excellent systems available. What if you can save lets say $250 and get a 2.1 system for less than $50 and still have a decent system? Have you heard of the Cyber Acoustic CA-3602 (62 watts) desktop system??? I'm a 35 year experienced audiophile and I guarantee you that you will be delightfully surprised as I was. Why spend $300 when you can experience decent sound quality for less than $50?  I've got a audiophile quality stereo set-up with (just to mention a few) very good electronics and speakers... amps like NAD, Onkyo, Rotel and Adcom and speakers like ELAC, Triangle Espirit EZ Titus, B&W and Monitor Audio. Of course not trying to compare a $50 set-up to any of the mentioned audiophile quality ($$$) I have as my main listening set-up BUT I can tell you this, sound and build quality is very very good. Lets just say that the Cyber Acoustic is the "Poor Mans Audiophile Dream Come True"...  Just click on the picture and see the review. You can get these at Amazon or Newegg. Enjoy...
 
http://theroundingsound.com/audiophile-pc-speakers/

 

[melen1717]

  Hi all, noobie here.
 
My Altec Lansing MX5021 set just died after 10 years of service. I really love these speakers, but it looks like they're beyond repair. I'm looking for a replacement as close to the same quality as I can get.
 
I'm leaning heavily towards the Swan M50W's. I'd appreciate hearing from anyone who's tried these or might have a better alternative.
 
Cheers.

I would guess that your budget should be $250 to $300 (the Swans are $300) and at that price range there are quite a few excellent systems available. What if you can save lets say $250 and get a 2.1 system for less than $50 and still have a decent system? Have you heard of the Cyber Acoustic CA-3602 (62 watts) desktop system??? I'm a 35 year experienced audiophile and I guarantee you that you will be delightfully surprised as I was. Why spend $300 when you can experience decent sound quality for less than $50?  I've got a audiophile quality stereo set-up with (just to mention a few) very good electronics and speakers... amps like NAD, Onkyo, Rotel and Adcom and speakers like ELAC, Triangle Espirit EZ Titus, B&W and Monitor Audio. Of course not trying to compare a $50 set-up to any of the mentioned audiophile quality ($$$) I have as my main listening set-up BUT I can tell you this, sound and build quality is very very good. Lets just say that the Cyber Acoustic is the "Poor Mans Audiophile Dream Come True"...  Just click on the link below and see the review. You can get these at Amazon or Newegg. Enjoy...
 
http://theroundingsound.com/audiophile-pc-speakers/
 

 

[nuraman00]

It's way more complicated than I'm making it sound but:

Class A always running, newer designs use Smart switching techniques to flick over to a class B stage when no draw is occuring (idle).

Class A/B actually uses the class A side for amplification at lower volumes, then when the power is really needed they flick over to class AB to belt out the sound.

Class D is by far the most efficient and can be left on forever drawing next to nothing, they are nearing 100% efficiency in modern chip Amps. It's looked down on by amplifier purists as a "lesser" solution. And technically it is not as good as older more power hungry amp types.

But as I'm sure you are aware most people who listen to a good class D won't even be able to tell you that's what they are hearing. In fact one of smsl's class D Amps is among my favourites I have ever heard, and I've tried most amps that get overwhelming praise so don't feel like you are missing out at all. JBL know their business.

 
 

 

 Class A/B actually uses the class B side for amplification at lower volumes, then when the power is really needed they flick over to class A to belt out the sound.

 
I think you got this part wrong. Class A/B uses class A for low power (i.e. headphones) while it switches to Class AB topology for loudspeaker operation (via gain switch). An example is Schiit Ragnarok.

 
 

 

I think you got this part wrong. Class A/B uses class A for low power (i.e. headphones) while it switches to Class AB topology for loudspeaker operation (via gain switch). An example is Schiit Ragnarok.

You are correct, I listed them backwards in the low volume section, but the power saving is correct. Poweramps use a bias method to switch to AB as soon as the load is too high for class A to not go full fireball, in reading it said a great class A has an efficiency of just 30%. Ouch.

 
 
Thanks to all for the explanation.