Watts Up...?
Aug 6, 2021 at 6:28 AM Post #2,566 of 2,774

alxw0w

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Hi Rob, thanks for taking the time to answer. That really means a lot!

If the consensus is a defect in the Chord gear of course I agree. And I already wrote my Distributor about it to pursue that route.

but does anyone have experience with settings within Innuos software that can be the culprit?
There were similar cases mentioned in Dave topic. You have to contact dealer. Something in the Dave needs to be fixed and you will be fine.
 
Aug 6, 2021 at 6:42 AM Post #2,567 of 2,774

TheHifiBear

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There were similar cases mentioned in Dave topic. You have to contact dealer. Something in the Dave needs to be fixed and you will be fine.
Thank you, will continue the path of frustration through the Distributor.
 
Aug 6, 2021 at 7:22 AM Post #2,568 of 2,774

dac64

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Hi Rob, thanks for taking the time to answer. That really means a lot!

If the consensus is a defect in the Chord gear of course I agree. And I already wrote my Distributor about it to pursue that route.

but does anyone have experience with settings within Innuos software that can be the culprit?

Might be different issue, I misconnected one of the dual BNC outputs at the output of m Scaler to the single BNC output therefore everytime my family switched the lightings or home appliances, the music was interrupted.
 
Aug 6, 2021 at 7:41 AM Post #2,569 of 2,774

TheHifiBear

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Might be different issue, I misconnected one of the dual BNC outputs at the output of m Scaler to the single BNC output therefore everytime my family switched the lightings or home appliances, the music was interrupted.
Yeah I also did that yesterday because I forgot M Scaer has separate single/dual OUT.

as a side note when the clicks, pops and dropouts occur the Dave screen also flickers on and off (I have the display on when Dave is on, so screen should always show the GUI).

maybe Dave is sad and needs a fix. Would be nice to get it sorted so that I don’t have to fret every change I make to the setup.

I also tried a different USB, some el cheapo one. And it actually made it worse. So the input to M Scaler is definitely affecting the clicks and pops which is why I fear the Innuos is to blame.

connecting the Node 2i, while the Innuos is connected, and playing from the Node through optical works flawlessly.
 
Aug 6, 2021 at 12:33 PM Post #2,570 of 2,774

ecwl

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connecting the Node 2i, while the Innuos is connected, and playing from the Node through optical works flawlessly.
Wait... Do you mean Node 2i via optical into M-Scaler dual BNC into DAVE has no playback issues. No clicks and no pops? Because it works fine that way, your DAVE and your M-Scaler are probably not defective and not in need of repair/replacement..

It also means that there is an electrical grounding RF noise issue/compatibility issue between your Innuos into the M-Scaler into the DAVE into the rest of the components. Sometimes, simply plugging everything into the same power bar would solve the issue. Sometimes you need to ground something (Innuos/M-Scaler/DAVE/downstream components) to solve the issue. If you don't want to make your own ground wire, you can probably get iFi GroundHog. Except you still need to be aware of where to put the ground wire so you don't create even more problems.
 
Aug 6, 2021 at 2:30 PM Post #2,571 of 2,774

TheHifiBear

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Wait... Do you mean Node 2i via optical into M-Scaler dual BNC into DAVE has no playback issues. No clicks and no pops? Because it works fine that way, your DAVE and your M-Scaler are probably not defective and not in need of repair/replacement..

It also means that there is an electrical grounding RF noise issue/compatibility issue between your Innuos into the M-Scaler into the DAVE into the rest of the components. Sometimes, simply plugging everything into the same power bar would solve the issue. Sometimes you need to ground something (Innuos/M-Scaler/DAVE/downstream components) to solve the issue. If you don't want to make your own ground wire, you can probably get iFi GroundHog. Except you still need to be aware of where to put the ground wire so you don't create even more problems.
Hmm, RF in the mains. That’s actually a viable reason! I have issues with that already in that I have to use plug adapters with earth to my schuko power cords to avoid having current running through the metal chassis if my components.

your saying that could be enough to throw the M Scaler off course?

the Node 2i was plugged into the same power strip as the M Scaler, but I put the Innuos in the one where the rest of my gear is connected because it’s a better power strip.

will try to the M Scaler to that one as well and see if it fixes anything.

I ordered a pair of Wave Storm (still waiting for Mr. Triode to make the cables and send them). Maybe they’ll also help mitigate the issue a bit.

Thank you for the suggestion, hope that it works! The Innuos Zenith is quite amazing even with M Scaler on only a quarter of the upsampling.
 
Aug 7, 2021 at 7:24 AM Post #2,572 of 2,774

TheHifiBear

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Hmm, RF in the mains. That’s actually a viable reason! I have issues with that already in that I have to use plug adapters with earth to my schuko power cords to avoid having current running through the metal chassis if my components.

your saying that could be enough to throw the M Scaler off course?

the Node 2i was plugged into the same power strip as the M Scaler, but I put the Innuos in the one where the rest of my gear is connected because it’s a better power strip.

will try to the M Scaler to that one as well and see if it fixes anything.

I ordered a pair of Wave Storm (still waiting for Mr. Triode to make the cables and send them). Maybe they’ll also help mitigate the issue a bit.

Thank you for the suggestion, hope that it works! The Innuos Zenith is quite amazing even with M Scaler on only a quarter of the upsampling.
Unfortunately the power strip allignement didn’t work. So if this is RF related it’s more complex then streamer and M Scaler being angry with one another.
I did use S/PDIF over RCA from Node 2i prior to optical without issues, so RF should have had the same impact in this scenario.

@Rob Watts
One question that has concerned from the start of getting the M Scaler (as this was when I noticed it the first time).
When ever the M Scaler and Dave are acting up with drop outs, clicks etc. the screen on the Dave flickers. Turning on and off in random sequences. I’m rare cases the flickering is only for specific elements on the screen as the input or sample rate.
I use the always on, black/white option.

Is that expected as Dave struggles to log on to M Scaler signal, or could it be an indicator of a fault in Dave?
 
Aug 7, 2021 at 8:18 AM Post #2,574 of 2,774

TheHifiBear

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The display flickering is due to lack of lock. Sounds like Dave needs to go back to Chord for a check-up.
Thank you for replying and my apologies for interrupting the thread with my issues.

I will coordinate with me Distributor from here on.

Thanks to everybody that chipped in!
 
Aug 7, 2021 at 12:14 PM Post #2,575 of 2,774

feddar

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I’ve been experimenting with using Primephonic as a high resolution source for my HMS/TT2 combo. I must say that despite some major issues with their app, Primephonic has great content. It is classical music only, and their included album/composer/artist information and cataloguing is top notch. Most importantly, the music sounds great! It is uncompressed, and up to 192kHz/24bit. I prefer it over the MQA sound of Tidal.

@Rob Watts ,
My question has to do with bitrate. While playing, the LED colour on the HMS matches the bitrate on the Primephonic app (via iPhone). But the strange thing is that when I am playing at 320kbps or lower (ie compressed), the colour on the HSM still matches the ‘maximum bitrate’ available. Why would that be?

If this is not an error, is there a way to tell whether the stream from the phone is compressed, or in 16 vs 24bit for that matter?

I’ve also noticed that when I change tracks that are in different bitrates, there is a short click or static sound that occurs between the tracks. Is that abnormal, or potentially damaging to the HMS, TT2, or my headphones?

Thanks,

Fed
 
Aug 7, 2021 at 7:58 PM Post #2,576 of 2,774

TonyTripleA

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I’ve been experimenting with using Primephonic as a high resolution source for my HMS/TT2 combo. I must say that despite some major issues with their app, Primephonic has great content. It is classical music only, and their included album/composer/artist information and cataloguing is top notch. Most importantly, the music sounds great! It is uncompressed, and up to 192kHz/24bit. I prefer it over the MQA sound of Tidal.

@Rob Watts ,
My question has to do with bitrate. While playing, the LED colour on the HMS matches the bitrate on the Primephonic app (via iPhone). But the strange thing is that when I am playing at 320kbps or lower (ie compressed), the colour on the HSM still matches the ‘maximum bitrate’ available. Why would that be?

If this is not an error, is there a way to tell whether the stream from the phone is compressed, or in 16 vs 24bit for that matter?

I’ve also noticed that when I change tracks that are in different bitrates, there is a short click or static sound that occurs between the tracks. Is that abnormal, or potentially damaging to the HMS, TT2, or my headphones?

Thanks,

Fed
I borrowed a HMS to evaluate on my TT2, I have a very kind dealer or I spend too much at his store. Either way I wanted to see what the HMS could do. I found the switching clicks were at a very high sound level, with a very loud click when changing some HMS settings, especially worse when hitting the passthrough button. it was at the level of me being concerned for the speakers… especially if a member of the family ever dared use do something without me there to supervise. I assumed the stores HMS was at fault as nobody seems to have this issue but thought it worth mentioning in regard to the clicks you have heard, as I said there were plenty on the HMS I tried, but none on my TT2 alone.

Lovin the sound,

Tony
 
Aug 8, 2021 at 2:37 AM Post #2,577 of 2,774

Rob Watts

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I’ve been experimenting with using Primephonic as a high resolution source for my HMS/TT2 combo. I must say that despite some major issues with their app, Primephonic has great content. It is classical music only, and their included album/composer/artist information and cataloguing is top notch. Most importantly, the music sounds great! It is uncompressed, and up to 192kHz/24bit. I prefer it over the MQA sound of Tidal.

@Rob Watts ,
My question has to do with bitrate. While playing, the LED colour on the HMS matches the bitrate on the Primephonic app (via iPhone). But the strange thing is that when I am playing at 320kbps or lower (ie compressed), the colour on the HSM still matches the ‘maximum bitrate’ available. Why would that be?

If this is not an error, is there a way to tell whether the stream from the phone is compressed, or in 16 vs 24bit for that matter?

I’ve also noticed that when I change tracks that are in different bitrates, there is a short click or static sound that occurs between the tracks. Is that abnormal, or potentially damaging to the HMS, TT2, or my headphones?

Thanks,

Fed
I have no knowledge on the Primephonic app. But it sounds like the app is not converting compressed music bit perfectly - it is upsampling too. You need to ensure that the app gives you the original sample rate of the file - that's the reason I show the incoming sample rate.

The sample rate change clicks depends upon the app's treatment of sample rate changes. If it is done with an insertion of digital silence between the sample rate change, it will not click - so on my JRiver it never clicks when changing sample rates (either during a playlist or on the fly). On the fly changes are the worst for these app's that do not insert silence; to avoid it, stop the track, then start the new track.

The clicks can't damage the M scaler or the DAC, so don't worry about that - and it would have to be a huge bang to cause damage to transducers!
 
Aug 12, 2021 at 5:36 PM Post #2,578 of 2,774

feddar

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Thanks for the information.

@Rob Watts
I just got an iPad Pro, hoping that it would be a good music source, among other things. Unfortunately, when I plug the USB-C from the iPad Pro to the HMS, The music sounded good for only 30 seconds. Then it change the pure static. I tried it with my iPad Air, and it worked just fine. Any idea what could be going on here? Customer support at Apple was pretty useless, and I’m having a hard time finding information about this issue online.

———
update
I tried another USB cable, and everything works. I wonder why the cable would work for the old iPad, but not the new iPad. I also wonder how long a USB cable can be before running into trouble. The one that didn’t work was quite long.
 
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Aug 13, 2021 at 12:04 AM Post #2,579 of 2,774

Rob Watts

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If it's an "audiophile" USB cable, all bets are off. If it's a certified generic high speed USB cable, it should be length independent - although I haven't ever been longer than 2m myself.
 
Aug 13, 2021 at 12:52 PM Post #2,580 of 2,774

feddar

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If it's an "audiophile" USB cable, all bets are off. If it's a certified generic high speed USB cable, it should be length independent - although I haven't ever been longer than 2m myself.
Sorry but what do you mean by all bets are off?

And would you say that it either works or it does not, or is there a gradient?
 
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