water-slide decals: anyone use them?
Feb 12, 2010 at 2:40 PM Thread Starter Post #1 of 5

linuxworks

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I'm interested in getting clean looking white lettering on a clear background, for darker colored cases. getting black lettering is easy, it seems; but only a few printers can do white lettering. an old ALPS is mentioned but its been discontinued.

anyone here use home printed decals for their casework? some examples that I've seen in the past looked pretty good and its nice to be able to get quick 'good enough' lettering for a project. even better when its just something you print on your printer and then transfer over via the water soak/transfer method.

I'd like to get some pointers on printers, supplies and what did and did not work when trying to make lettering for cases using this method.
 
Feb 12, 2010 at 4:56 PM Post #2 of 5
I've done some DIY water-slide details, and in my opinion, the better route is dry transfer lettering. There are even "audio" related transfer sheets that you can find, that has things like graduated dials, and common warnings found near IEC jacks, and commonly used words for inputs and outputs. You might find it best to seal the final panel with a clear lacquer, if ultimately durability is of any concern.
 
Feb 12, 2010 at 4:56 PM Post #3 of 5
I've spent time w/water-slide decals but don't have access to a printer that can do nice, solid light colors (white, yellow).
IOW, have only done labels that work on light/clear-alum surfaces:




I've passed tips through PM, etc. & here's what I dug up:

Got the sheets a couple years ago... AFAIR these the ones I have (clear, 5.5 x 8.5, printer drivers often call this "Statement" paper):

SuperCal; Ink Jet Decals

And I may have even ordered through them. Not cheap @ like $2+/sheet, but you can put quite a bit of text on each.
My process goes something like this:

1) 1st time have a 5.5" x 8.5" plain paper stock & print MS Word statement page on that (getting margins, orientation, etc right).

2) When you go to print, tell printer GLOSSY paper.

3) I use Krylon or Rustoleum clear / matte spray. Spray printed sheet light & evenly & let dry. Applied-to surface should be glass-smooth, if necessary apply gloss coat for decal surface (less air under decal).

4) cut individ labels out w/an exacto knife trying to tilt it @ angle to make a sort of beveled edge to all labels. LEAVE enough room to hold the label not on its text. SCORE label such that have you "handle" to hold while applying. Then slide it on after 15 sec soak & dab / wipe w/paper towel. Add water if you need to slide it straight.

5) let stuff dry then apply 1 or 2 coats of clear / matte spray. Buff if necessary.

There are some decal-specific fluids one can use & some subs for them (e.g. vinegar) and some stuff that kinda "melts" the decal onto the underlying surface. Haven't tried 'em.

I'm sure there are some (ex-)modelers out there that might have this down.
 
Feb 13, 2010 at 5:44 AM Post #4 of 5
Who supplies dry-transfer lettering? It sounds like a good option.
For wet-transfer decals, you really do need some kind of clear coat to keep them from coming off. Think about all of the curled-up decals from your old model airplanes
tongue.gif
 
Feb 13, 2010 at 6:05 AM Post #5 of 5
The advice I've seen to get normal printers to do white lettering is to use white inkjet paper, and print a big black box, leaving space for your letters. They'll show white where you didn't print. Cut the decal out so that the black print goes to the edges and apply it.

Here's a site with some directions: http://www.mcgpaper.com/modeldecals.html (They sell the stuff too, but I'm not recommending them either way.)

I picked up some decal transfer paper and clear coat, but haven't tried it yet. I was going to do up the front of one of the Starving Student amps real nice. I got my supplies at a local hobby shop.

The ALPS printers were swell, but discontinued ages ago. They did have a white cartridge, as well as a shiny gold and shiny silver cartridge. There wasn't enough demand for them, I guess. They were too slow for normal printing.
 

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