[marcelnl]

that just might be the problem...on the PCb pin 13 and 14 are connnected to ground (0 Volt) you need to disconnect them from the ground and connect them to 3.3 volt.
If you so not disconnect you short 3.3V to ground.....you either have to disconnect Pin 13 and 14 on the PCB from ground by scratching through some connetions OR you unsolder pin 13 and 14 and lift them off the PCB.
 
 
 
 

 

[Eunegis]

Does anyone know if USB implementation is synchronous (adaptive) or asynchronous???
 
Maybe someone mentioned it already, but search engine doesn't yield results for me.
BTW: I'm using the socalled "Luxury Version" of the Valab 1543 which must be more or less the same as the TeraDak 3.1D.

 

[marcelnl]

emailing Teradak might just be the best way to find out, or checking the CM108 chip specs....I'd guess synchronous, looking at the threads raving about async USB converters
 

 

[newbee123]

Quote:

MarcellNL,
 
Can i know what cap value u have
 
 
replace output cap, input cap
replace PSU caps around TDA 5143

 

[marcelnl]

mine does not use input caps(took em out), and the value for the output cap is a function of the price you are willing to pay and the input resistance of your amp
I have removed the output cap as my tube amp has an input cap (Mundorf silver gold oil 1 uF).
The PSU caps around TDA 1543 I used are 47uF, 68 will also work
 

 

[LosNir]

Hi guys,
Is there some sort of scheme for the valab?
 
I tried to apply the DIR9001 mod but things turned into a mess and now the pads of pins 7,8,9, 12 of the DIR9001 are history. The chip itself is damaged to. 

I already ordered 2 new pieces of the chip off eBay. Now I need to find a way to tell which pins goes to where so I can solder some wires instead.
 
Does someone has an idea? Maybe I can "restore" the pads?
 
EDIT:
 
Are those pins even connectes to somewhere? It looks like only about 12pins are connected out of 28pins.. Is that makes sense?

 

[marcelnl]

you should be able to find the spec sheet in the internet, that usually tells you which pins should be expected to be used, some usually are not required to be connected as they simply are there because the circuit chip  has to fit in the package.
Soldering on chips this size is not for the faint hearted and only for the nimble fingered....maybe you can connect pins you need connected on the new chip with a tiny piece of wire, attching it to the circuit board wherever you can(following the diagram)
 
PM me your email andïll send you the 2.5 diagram

 

[LosNir]

Yeah actually I checked the data-sheet for the DIR9001.. none of the pins are stated as N/C but I can't really determine if they are any use specifically in the Valab usage of the chip.
So I checked other DIR9001 application design in this image: http://www.electronics-diy.com/schematics/830/dir9001_spdif_sch.png.
 
It looks like pins 7,9 are not connected to anything,
This actually conforms what I saw after re-inspecting the Valab PCB with a magnifying glass,
What I saw was tiny traces leading to various places in the board, but never saw ones for pins 7 & 9.
 
Lucky me, only pins 7, 8 & 9 got their pads damaged (Acutally 13 & 14 to, but I don't need them anymore) so all I need is to solder just one wire to pin 8.
 
I PM'ed you my email just to be sure. It's also easier to look at the diagram instead of straining my eye under a magnifying glass
Thanks.

 

[newbee123]

More questions about this DAC
 
A. What value I should use for my ported speaker? 0.1 or 4.7?
B. I should change this resistor to 200Ohm right?
C. What value I should use for these 10 pcs 10uf cap?
D. Should I change this one?
E. Should I change this one?
F. What is that?
 
Thich IC to mods DIR9001?

 

[marcelnl]

You may want to stay away from many of these mods as I get the uneasy feeling you have no real clue what the parts do and what you are up to...
 
Changing the output cap only makes sense if you improve its sonical fingerpint, the cap size is driven by the input resistance of the next device, in your case I'd suspect the speaker you refer to is an active system with an amp integrated.....that being said there may be little improvement to be had is that speaker system is low spec.
 
My motto is : Assumption is the mother of all Fu%$ Ups
You ask many questions without explaining why you ask them....the answer is only going to be as good as the one answering can guess your intentions and where you are coming from...
I'll refrain from start your questions until you have somewhat explained what system you are using and what your skill level is (soldering electronics etc) and more importantly why you ask the questions as the answers are in the previous posts in this thread yet you probably either are confused by conflicting info or have other considerations.
 
Not trying to be harsh or anything but I do not want to rehash a 13something pages of postings in this thread just for nothing
 
 

 

[newbee123]

Quote:

You may want to stay away from many of these mods as I get the uneasy feeling you have no real clue what the parts do and what you are up to...
 
Changing the output cap only makes sense if you improve its sonical fingerpint, the cap size is driven by the input resistance of the next device, in your case I'd suspect the speaker you refer to is an active system with an amp integrated.....that being said there may be little improvement to be had is that speaker system is low spec.
 
My motto is : Assumption is the mother of all Fu%$ Ups
You ask many questions without explaining why you ask them....the answer is only going to be as good as the one answering can guess your intentions and where you are coming from...
I'll refrain from start your questions until you have somewhat explained what system you are using and what your skill level is (soldering electronics etc) and more importantly why you ask the questions as the answers are in the previous posts in this thread yet you probably either are confused by conflicting info or have other considerations.
 
Not trying to be harsh or anything but I do not want to rehash a 13something pages of postings in this thread just for nothing
 
 

Hi Marcelnl,
 
as you know from the user name I am still newbee that is the reason why I am asking help to get more understanding
As for the speaker, Speaker that I have is DIY speaker (from Jim Holtz Statement Speaker) and not active speakers
I collected all the information from this thread...... but I want some more input
 
 

 

[marcelnl]

I honestly think this may be way over your head, no offense.....
 
I'd leave the modding at changing the output caps if that. Whether you hear any difference is down to your amp etc etc....not knowing your soldering skill or knowledge of electronics is not helping guiding you through this.
 
What work was involved in the DIY speaker?
 

 

[newbee123]

Well, mostly is woodworking and little bit crossover
here is the link
http://speakerdesignworks.com/Statements.html
 
I found out that DIY in this hobby is so much fun since you will get more than what u paid
 

 

[repeet]

Ha-ha, I find the electronics mods simple and I am currently building the 'mini statements'.  The woodworking part is harder than I expected. Not having all the right tools is the biggest stumbling block. Getting all the panels square and exactly the same size is tricky.  

 

[marcelnl]

DIY HIFI or even High End...IS rewarding, I started DIYing some speakers myself....well, hell broke loose after that
 
Doing woodwork and soldering some speaker filter components together is veryyyy different from f.e. the DIR mod in the valab dac. Like going from stitching a sail to micro surgery.
 
Take it slow, do one step at a time and prepare to replace any item you are tinkering with. Read up on basic electronics first and try some soldering on SMD stuff on an old PCB (unsoldering is more apliccable as you'll be replacing most of the SMD crap to replace it with decent components)
 
Listen to each step, so you'll learn to distinguis sonic merits..or not, sometimes you may want to undo a step...