Triport Recable: Driver Problems
Jul 18, 2007 at 4:14 AM Thread Starter Post #1 of 10

ilovesocks

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Long story short: I'm recabling my ex-roommate's Triports. (Yeah yeah, "U SHOOD GIVE HIM A PIAR OF KSC-75 OR EVEN BETTER A PUNCH IN THE MOUTH LOL!!!!111 BOTH OF THEM ARE WAAAY BETTUR THEN BOSE!!" Give it a rest.)

I've put together the new cable, which is a Mogami which splits, terminated with a 1/8" Canare connector. I've tested the cable and connector with a multimeter and current travels though it quite nicely.

The problem arose when I tried to play music through a driver by plugging the connector into my amp and then touching the little wires on the driver to the appropriate ones on the cable. No matter what, I get nothing. However, if I touch the wires directly to the connector, I get sound. Again, I'm very sure that the soldering joints are solid and that the current is being transferred properly due to my multimeter testing results. I believe the problem lies in these pictures:

DSC02866.jpg

DSC02867.jpg

DSC02869.jpg


Bose have used a strange kind of wire for the driver; the metal strands seem to be on the outside (copper-colored and green, in this case), wound around a cotton core. What's odd is that the exterior of these strands do not conduct; only their ends do.

Now, I haven't actually tried soldering the ends of these strands to the wires of the cable because I thought I should get some input first. It doesn't seem to me that solder would help get a connection going because just twisting the driver strands to the cable doesn't work. Is there something I should treat the driver strands with in order to help them conduct? Has anyone encountered this metal-wires-on-the-outside-of-a-cotton-core kind of wire before?

Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 
Jul 18, 2007 at 4:44 AM Post #2 of 10
its enameled copper wire. it is used because it is cheap, like the headphones.

you should give him a good punch in the mouth. thats WAY better than the triports
wink.gif


anyways, de-solder that crap wire from the drivers carefully, and solder your new stuff on. it should work out then. be very careful with the drivers, it is possible to de-solder the voice coil wires with some designs.

maybe it would be better for you to have an "accident" and get him the ksc-75's...

most manufacturers of "consumer grade" headphone use that same crap wire. it sucks bad.
 
Jul 18, 2007 at 6:35 AM Post #4 of 10
I'll be doing one of these at the weekend, my friends cable got caught in the spokes of his bike.

Under the stuck on internal black mesh, are the two visible screws the only things holding on the drivers.

Thanks, any other got-yas?
 
Jul 18, 2007 at 7:34 AM Post #5 of 10
Quote:

Originally Posted by nikongod /img/forum/go_quote.gif
its enameled copper wire. it is used because it is cheap, like the headphones.

you should give him a good punch in the mouth. thats WAY better than the triports
wink.gif


anyways, de-solder that crap wire from the drivers carefully, and solder your new stuff on. it should work out then. be very careful with the drivers, it is possible to de-solder the voice coil wires with some designs.

maybe it would be better for you to have an "accident" and get him the ksc-75's...

most manufacturers of "consumer grade" headphone use that same crap wire. it sucks bad.



Ah! Thanks for the heads-up. De-soldering those wires is such a simple solution that I didn't think of it at all. Awesome.
 
Jul 18, 2007 at 8:19 AM Post #6 of 10
Quote:

Originally Posted by thebob /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I'll be doing one of these at the weekend, my friends cable got caught in the spokes of his bike.

Under the stuck on internal black mesh, are the two visible screws the only things holding on the drivers.

Thanks, any other got-yas?



Yes, there are only two screws holding the driver in, so just pull 'er off after that. I didn't really run into any problems, actually. The scariest part was figuring out how to take the pads off, actually. I didn't want to yank them and risk breaking something, but that's what you have to do.
 
Jul 18, 2007 at 11:10 AM Post #7 of 10
yeah that wire is a pain in the ***. I was repairing some HD600 cable and they've got the same stuff. Had to use a knife to kinda scratch off some coating.
 
Jul 19, 2007 at 3:40 PM Post #8 of 10
Quote:

Originally Posted by ilovesocks /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Yes, there are only two screws holding the driver in, so just pull 'er off after that. I didn't really run into any problems, actually. The scariest part was figuring out how to take the pads off, actually. I didn't want to yank them and risk breaking something, but that's what you have to do.


Thanks for that. Some people might not be impressed with them, but they are expensive. Love to see your repair.

I've got a good 3.5 to RCA patch cord I'm gonna butcher. Saw a nice splitter junction made by pinching the heatshrink between the split with a pair of needle nose pliers when the glue was still hot.
 
Jul 19, 2007 at 6:37 PM Post #9 of 10
I'll definitely post pictures when I'm done - maybe in a new thread. The Mogami cable I used has two separate cables for each channel which can be pulled apart to make the desired length of split. I pulled it apart and then put heatshrink around the end of the split to hopefully keep it from ever splitting further.
 
Jul 19, 2007 at 11:49 PM Post #10 of 10
secretly replace the drivers on him.
 

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