[was ist los?]

How do i screw on the 1/8" jack's nut thing on 2mm thick plastic panel?

 

[tangent]

Grind down the panel on the back side.

 

[grahamndodder]

You have a couple of choices. I just finished mounting a CMoy in a block of hollowed-out red oak. My sides were almost half an inch think.

I used both of the following solutions for different panel components.

First, for power switch and volume pot, I used a dremel rotary tool with a tiny drum sander to grind a concave section on the back side of the wall. You are probably pretty close to being able to get a 1/8 jack (standard depth) into 2mm plastic. If you can grind just enough away from the back to get one good turn on your retaining nut, that'll do it. Don't skip the washer, tho. It'll scratch your faceplate.

Option 2, which I used for my in/out jacks, was deciding to go the 1/4" route for both, as in doobooloo's recent gorgeous wood META. Switchcraft makes a beautiful deeeeeep 1/4" jack that is carried by both mouser and digikey.

Of course you have to use adapters on your cords, or, like me, whip up some 1/8->1/4 IC's.

GnD

 

[was ist los?]

ARG.. unfortunately, i don't have a dremel!!

 

[Sol_Zhen]

Quote:

Originally posted by tangent Grind down the panel on the back side.

Aye. That's what I was going to say.

If you don't have a Dremel. Maybe think about getting one? That or a case that can take your stock mounts?

 

[grahamndodder]

Was ist los-

They cost less than you probably think.

I got a Craftsman version at Sears (the generic name is rotary tool) with a ton of accessories and bits for $49.95. And they do so many things well. It would greatly expand the possibilities for casework, and many other things not even related to audio DIY. Takes up almmost no space, too.

The secret, other than the size and pencil-tip-like control, is bit speed. It is way, way higher than the typical power drill.

Having used it, I would suggest Tangent include it in his mid-level and higher hobbyist tool kit suggestions.

GnD

 

[mekanoplastik]

to make holes in plastik get an old soldering iron...and melt the pannel, then cut the blops with a razor blade.. you can make very nice small or really big round holes using this method..only problem..it stinks

 

[tangent]

Quote:

I would suggest Tangent include it in his mid-level and higher hobbyist tool kit suggestions.

That article explicitly dodges casework issues. It's about the electronics building part only. Maybe someday I will get around to writing a casework article, in which case a Dremel will definitely go in.

 

[sneared]

see this thread also:

http://www4.head-fi.org/forums/showt...threadid=37352

Note that one of the jacks mentioned and available from Mouser mounts from the panel side. You can use this with pretty thick panels.

I've also found considerable variation in the threaded length from various manufacturers. Switchcraft seems to have one of the shortest. The cylindrical jack available at Mouser is one of the longer ones.

There are also several irreversible mounting techniques some have already touched on like epoxy or hot glue.

Another is to inset or recess the area around the nut. Usually requires a drill press and a special bit. Go too far, and the case is history. Done correctly, it looks great. Real men do it with a hand drill.

Yeah, case work is the last hurdle to a completed project and sometimes its the hardest. I have many uncased amps lying around cause I just don't feel like putting the effort into drilling, cutting, etc. Hope I don't have any roof leaks.

Good Luck!

 

[MERTON]

i have an interest in this as well... i am thinking of making some very nice wooden headphone amp boxes and want any info ya'l can give me on mounting things like this.. should i just put in brass panels and forget about all wood construction? (i have to get tools!!)

 

[grahamndodder]

Merton-

No. Switch to 1/4 I/O's and get the thick Switchcraft jacks like doobooloo's. They really are very nice, with over an inch of available depth. I love them.

GnD

 

[grahamndodder]

Tangent-

You'll have to put the Dremel info in. That's the problem. Your tutorials are so good you are becoming the de facto Oxford Dictionary of headphone amp building!

Speaking of which, your info was so good I am considering attempting a GainClone in the not-too-distant future. Of course, I will study my butt off and get enough specific advice (and DMM testing) so that I don't defib myself on the power tranny. My death will not be on your hands. I promise.

BTW, you should consider doing a couse in which the students at your local community college build a CMoy, BTW. I have taught adjuct at my local college (Intermediate Photo) and recognize a lot of my love of teaching in your own work. The kids really respond well to people who get their enthusiasm and skill across like that. There's no money in it, but it is fun as hell. As you already know, you don't really know something until you teach it. Having the first-hand experience of seeing 18 people learning something that you love is very intoxicating.

You have re-ignited a long-dead interest I formerly had for audio DIY. Coupled with my getting XM Satellite radio last year, it has really gotten me back into music. "Terrestrial" radio was so bad it wasn't wirth listening to.

Oh, well. Enough of this thread hi-jack.

Thanks again.

GnD

 

[BradJudy]

I did exactly as grahamndodder suggests when I built my wood box META42. I used my dremel with a rotary sander to grind down the backside to fit the switches and connectors. It worked quite well.

 

[crxy_sasquatch]

Countersink

sorry if this was mentioned, I was too lazy to read every post.