[catscratch]

Bass flabbiness could also be a bad seal. All of the new Lambdas are pretty prone to it. You can test it with a sine sweep or test tone generator and see how low the bass goes. It should be audible down to about 25hz or so, but if it rolls off really hard below 50hz and you have a bump somewhere around 50-100hz, you probably have a bad seal.

In my case, I had to mod the L700 with aftermarket yokes (or Y-forks or whatever they're called) to get it to seal properly. But when it does, the bass is pretty linear and well extended. The rest of the FR issues are solvable with EQ.

 

[tjlindle]

Bass flabbiness could also be a bad seal. All of the new Lambdas are pretty prone to it. You can test it with a sine sweep or test tone generator and see how low the bass goes. It should be audible down to about 25hz or so, but if it rolls off really hard below 50hz and you have a bump somewhere around 50-100hz, you probably have a bad seal.

In my case, I had to mod the L700 with aftermarket yokes (or Y-forks or whatever they're called) to get it to seal properly. But when it does, the bass is pretty linear and well extended. The rest of the FR issues are solvable with EQ.

Just "reseated" it on my head, did a sweep and yea it definitely rolls off where you said so it looks like I'll need to have more placement finesse.

It'd really be a shame if comfort/fit issues tanked these for me because man they sound awesome. As you said, EQ is great here. I put 3db around 2.2k, Q 1.5 and it really gave electric guitars some crunch, metal sounds awesome now.

The weirdest thing coming from the Nova Classics is...well, basically having an actual soundstage. I would say based on the Lambdas I've heard, stage is usually pretty intimate so it is nice getting some air here. I'm not used to it!

In some cases I prefer the more intimate stage though. With the L700, there's that classic electrostat speed and clarity, combined with the soundstage it really gives everything a sense of "place." The LNC doesn't do that at all, imaging is great in a directional sense but nothing really gets "placed" and so it truly sounds like stuff just materializes out of thin air, hits you and runs off. It can be almost creepy with the right music.

The L500 is great too but yea I've spent about 90% of my time so far with the L700. Coming from vintage Lambdas, it's the one that's intrigued me the most because it sounds so different.

 

[BrintaVett]

Perhaps that is because the SRM-1 never had XLR inputs to begin with. Prior to the SRM-T1S, all of the Stax amps had single ended RCA inputs only. Based on the schematic, the SRM-1 MkII has a diff amp topology input section (but used single-ended) so in theory it could be modified to take XLR inputs. But you would need to install XLR jacks in place of the RCAs, and you would also need to replace the dual pot volume control with a quadruple pot such as is used in the T1S and later amps (assuming there is enough room to take the additional depth of the quad pots. Then you would need to wire the volume pots to the diff inputs (one of which in each channel is normally connected to ground in the SRM-1 MkII).

Note that the Stax pots, whether single-ended or balanced, use concentric shafts to control right and left channels so the quad pot would need to have the same shaft arrangement - specifically, two of the four pot sections would have to be connected to the larger shaft, and the other two to the smaller shaft, in order to allow for balanced R and L channel inputs. I believe that Stax special ordered these from Alps, and that they are not available for the typical consumer, which means you would have to cannibalize one from a broken Stax amp. If it's a working amp, it's going to be a more recent design than the SRM-1, and already has XLR jacks as stock, so is likely a better choice than modifying an old SRM-1 anyway.

I Read some posts saying that balanced could be modded to the SRM1 MK2 (I have the Pro version) but didn't know it also involved sourcing this volume pot. I Guess I'll just leave it as is then. Thanks for the reply!

 

[catscratch]

Just "reseated" it on my head, did a sweep and yea it definitely rolls off where you said so it looks like I'll need to have more placement finesse.

I used these on my Mk1 and it did the trick. Keep in mind that these yokes are longer than the standard ones, so if you are already at the tightest possible setting for the headband this will only make it worse. However something like Dekoni Nuggets can probably help in that case. You can also do the blu-tak mod to seal the driver to the baffle, but I haven't done it on mine, it feels like I don't have to and I prefer not to do any invasive surgery on my headphones unless it's necessary.

Yes, the L700 does have soundstage, not quite as impressive as on the 007 but far better than previous Lambdas. The left/right instrument separation in particular is very impressive, and you really do get the illusion of instruments appearing out of thin air as opposed to just having a ball of sound around your head like most headphones give you. At the same time, the L700 is quite tactile and does have slam - at least when given enough power - though bass tightness and resolve are still lacking in comparison to higher-end electrostats. It's a legit end-game headphone in its own right, not as technically impressive as some but very well rounded and surprisingly dynamic and tactile for an electrostat. And with a little bit of EQ, it also becomes one of the most neutral.

 

[tjlindle]

So what are the portable amp options for these 'stats other than the D10 or running a 252s off a portable battery? I'll probably never get rid of the 252s purely because I LOVE the flexibility of taking a serviceable 'stat setup anywhere I want (paired with an LG phone as a DAC). Is there anywhere to go beyond 252s while keeping portability?

I used these on my Mk1 and it did the trick. Keep in mind that these yokes are longer than the standard ones, so if you are already at the tightest possible setting for the headband this will only make it worse. However something like Dekoni Nuggets can probably help in that case. You can also do the blu-tak mod to seal the driver to the baffle, but I haven't done it on mine, it feels like I don't have to and I prefer not to do any invasive surgery on my headphones unless it's necessary.

Thanks for all this info - Dekoni Nuggets in particular look like they might really help since I'm just constantly a hair too small for the tightest setting on these Lambdas.

I also agree that these are endgame-tier at least compared to TOTL non-electrostats I've heard. I've been listening to them basically all day for the past couple days and with a few little EQ adjustments they are really just remarkably good. Still having subbass extension problems (probably fit/seal-related) but honestly that doesn't bother me much since if I hit material that needs big subbass I have my Monarch IEMs for that.

Also, sort of tangential to the main reason you'd want headphones like these, but the bigger soundstage here compared to other Lambdas makes these awesome for gaming. Not insanely huge soundstage but just enough to make the excellent imaging more immersive, plus the usual 'stat technicalities.

I guess there's nowhere to go from here except 007, 009, or X9k right?

...Or I guess I could try Sigmas...

 

[AudioCats]

....
I'll probably never get rid of the 252s purely because I LOVE the flexibility of taking a serviceable 'stat setup anywhere I want (paired with an LG phone as a DAC). Is there anywhere to go beyond 252s while keeping portability?

The 212/252 can be modded to improve quite a bit but still not quite as full-sounding as even a small desktop like a 313 (with the same mods applied).

Transportables like the 252 will not provide a lot of juice to run large phones, ok with Lambda types but nothing larger.

 

[Bleeding Transistor]

I posted this before on the "Introductions, Help and Recommendations" section and am reposting this here:

Hello Headfi., my first post here. I recently purchased the Stax SRM-1/MK2. It has both the normal and the pro connectors. I am confused about its voltage selection. The back of the unit says that it supports 100v, 117v, 220v and 240v. Also on the back there was a plastic plate that I unscrewed which only had multiple holes with the voltages written but no switch. This is the 'B' revision with just a backplate without a switcher. I wanted to know if the unit auto-switches the voltage or do I need to change it via jumpers or soldering. I live in USA so I need the voltage to be set to 117v. Pics attached

I prefer not to rewire so besides using a step-down transformer is there any way I could change the voltage to 117v?

 

[AudioCats]

It is probably hard-wired to one of the voltages. Hard to tell which one, from looking at the picture.


my notes on 007t transformer (same wire colors on the primary side).

blue<--15v-->brown <--100v-->grey purple<--15v-->green <--100v-->white

there is a thermal switch betwen white and yellow.

 

[Ciggavelli]

So, my Woo Audio 3ES Elite is coming in a week or so, but I still have to wait for the X9000 and CRBN in December, if not January

What’s the best “throwaway” pair of e-stats? I just want a pair to try out the 3ES. I’ve been looking at the Hifiman Jade II, but is there a better option at around the same price?

 

[tjlindle]

So, my Woo Audio 3ES Elite is coming in a week or so, but I still have to wait for the X9000 and CRBN in December, if not January

What’s the best “throwaway” pair of e-stats? I just want a pair to try out the 3ES. I’ve been looking at the Hifiman Jade II, but is there a better option at around the same price?

Nectarsound Pollinator/Hive in my opinion. Great tuning and excellent technical performance. Of the 'stats I've tried I consider it the best in the sub-$1k range.

The Hive has great build quality and runs $600. The Pollinator used to be $350 and the only difference was build quality (identical drivers to the Hive). It is no longer sold though unfortunately - it was phased out entirely for the Hive.

I have a decent amount of 'phones I'm prepping to list on the classifieds here and one of them is a Pollinator, feel free to DM me if you're interested.

 

[Ciggavelli]

Nectarsound Pollinator/Hive in my opinion. Great tuning and excellent technical performance. Of the 'stats I've tried I consider it the best in the sub-$1k range.

The Hive has great build quality and runs $600. The Pollinator used to be $350 and the only difference was build quality (identical drivers to the Hive). It is no longer sold though unfortunately - it was phased out entirely for the Hive.

I have a decent amount of 'phones I'm prepping to list on the classifieds here and one of them is a Pollinator, feel free to DM me if you're interested.

Thanks! I’m gonna do a little research on those now. I appreciate the recommendation

 

[AudioCats]

...

What’s the best “throwaway” pair of e-stats? I just want a pair to try out the 3ES. I’ve been looking at the Hifiman Jade II, but is there a better option at around the same price?

the safest bet is probably a pair of used 007A.

this pair will be about $1100 after the international shipping.
https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/b1017883434

 

[timb5881]

I can vouch for the Nectar Pollinator. Great phones for the buck!

 

[ThanatosVI]

So, my Woo Audio 3ES Elite is coming in a week or so, but I still have to wait for the X9000 and CRBN in December, if not January

What’s the best “throwaway” pair of e-stats? I just want a pair to try out the 3ES. I’ve been looking at the Hifiman Jade II, but is there a better option at around the same price?

Please share all the 3ES pictures.
Which tubes will you use? Stock?

 

[tycinis]

I don't think the srm-1 (either the old old version or the mk2 ) have XLR inputs....?

yep , only RCA on the SRM-1