[Whitigir]

Just like everything else. If you care for it well it enough, it will return you just the favor. Yet, there are people that reporting issues, but it is the very few of the minor, and there are people that has it for 10 years + without issues for the majority number. How old is the Omega now ? And how much is it running for now ? That should be more appropriate questions

 

[weasel1979]

Hi, has anyone compared an SR- 007 (with the right amp) with the Hifiman Susvara? I keep reading it has an electrostatic feel to it so a comparison would be useful. Also, I am considering going BHSE or Carbon, which makes these two sets belong in a similar price category..

 

[Whitigir]

Hi, has anyone compared an SR- 007 (with the right amp) with the Hifiman Susvara? I keep reading it has an electrostatic feel to it so a comparison would be useful. Also, I am considering going BHSE or Carbon, which makes these two sets belong in a similar price category..

009/007 with the right amps such as KG Carbon/GG/T2 are hard to compete. You can try and PM the Dr. yourself, and requests for such comparisons, but honest and direct comparisons won’t be seen. I doubt it ! Biased comparisons ? Sure, but you won’t see many of it either. There are prides, and Shills, but both, don’t go together

 

[yakaway]

AFAIK there isn't a published biasing process for the SRM-007, however the biasing for the T1/006 series is similar, see thread here:

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/tube-change-biasing-a-stax-006t-ii.415385/

IIRC, TVR1 adjusts the voltages between the + and - outputs for each channel, and the voltage probes should be inserted between the + and - outputs of either channel and adjusted to close to zero as possible.

TVR2 adjusts the voltages of the outputs to be close to zero volts with respect to ground - one voltage probe should be inserted into either th + or - output of a channel, and the other voltage probe should be connected to chassis ground.

The 007 has two additional adjustment pots, TVR3 and TVR4 - they adjust the plate voltages for the two sections of each 6CG7/6FQ7 to be equal to each other. Connect a voltmeter between both TP1 points or both TP2 points and adjust TVR3 and TVR4 so that the voltage between the two is zero.

There will be some thermal drift as the amp warms up, and there will also be some change between the voltage with the cover on and the cover off. For the T1, Stax specifies within +/-15 volts of zero as acceptable.

 

[yakaway]

AFAIK there isn't a published biasing process for the SRM-007, however the biasing for the T1/006 series is similar, see thread here:

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/tube-change-biasing-a-stax-006t-ii.415385/



IIRC, TVR1 adjusts the voltages between the + and - outputs for each channel, and the voltage probes should be inserted between the + and - outputs of either channel and adjusted to close to zero as possible.

TVR2 adjusts the voltages of the outputs to be close to zero volts with respect to ground - one voltage probe should be inserted into either th + or - output of a channel, and the other voltage probe should be connected to chassis ground.

The 007 has two additional adjustment pots, TVR3 and TVR4 - they adjust the plate voltages for the two sections of each 6CG7/6FQ7 to be equal to each other. Connect a voltmeter between both TP1 points or both TP2 points and adjust TVR3 and TVR4 so that the voltage between the two is zero.

There will be some thermal drift as the amp warms up, and there will also be some change between the voltage with the cover on and the cover off. For the T1, Stax specifies within +/-15 volts of zero as acceptable.

Does anyone have pics or a description of where tp1 ans tp2 are in the smr-007tII.

I understand thats where the multimeter goes to adjust tvr3 and tvr 4, but there ia no comprehenaive guide for this amp, so the bias setup has become frustrating for newbies

 

[1note]

Does anyone have pics or a description of where tp1 ans tp2 are in the smr-007tII.

I understand thats where the multimeter goes to adjust tvr3 and tvr 4, but there ia no comprehenaive guide for this amp, so the bias setup has become frustrating for newbies

I have just worked all of this out for myself, I think, with the help of JimL11's post and the thread he has referenced. Many thanks Jim. Have you looked at the thread Jim has hyperlinked? Go to page 2 and take a look at ColoradoTom's post #20 in the thread. That plus Jim's post i think explains all. Here is a picture from that post which I find most useful. And the 4 trim pots for the Left channel and the 4 for the right channel are clearly referenced on the 007tII circuit board. Hope this helps.

 

[hpeter]

Don't forget that Jude has a custom built Frank Cooter amp for his Stax.

i see quite good tubes over there

 

[JimL11]

Hello people of Stax land, I have a question about electrostats but more specifically STAX type. As the diaphragm is coated along with the general fragility of the product to the enviromental woes of the world I was wondering how long I can expect a good STAX rig to last. Like say do the Lambdas have a better lifespan than the SR009 and Omega-2? And is it worn down by using it or does letting it lay dormant cause more damage? And by using I mean within conventional listening levels like no higher than 80DB and used everyday being treated proper as in on a stand with dust cover while not is use. I really want to get a TOTL SR-009 rig but the lifespan has worried me with the one year warrenty along with the reports of electrostats developing imbalances down the line even while being treated well. Anyhelp is appreciated, thankyou!

As long as you take good care of it, it will last a long time. I have a pair of SR5 headphones that I bought in the early 1980s that I use occasionally still sound fine. Stax has been building these for a long, long time.

 

[JimL11]

Does anyone have pics or a description of where tp1 ans tp2 are in the smr-007tII.

I understand thats where the multimeter goes to adjust tvr3 and tvr 4, but there ia no comprehenaive guide for this amp, so the bias setup has become frustrating for newbies

Obviously, you haven't opened up the amp - TVR1-4, and TP1-2 are all clearly labelled on the circuit board. Or do a Google search for Stax SRM007 internals and you'll see a picture of the circuit board.

 

[yakaway]

I have the trv 1 and 2 close to zero for both channels.

When placing the multimeter on tp1 and 2, this is where i run into problems . Im getting voltage even through all of the screws are turned to where they can not be turned anymore. Is the voltage suppose to be zero here as well? What do these things do (tp1 and 2) anyway?

Jim, some of us just aren't as smart as you or dont have experience with high voltage electrical equipment.
Youre welcome to make constructive comments, but no need to be condescending.

I'm brand new to the hobby, have absolutely no experience with these things and comments like that are offputting.

If you found an image of the srm 007tIIs internals that you want to share l, then that would be appreciated. I'm not the only one whom is looking for direction with biasing this thing, so thanks.

 

[JimL11]

Image found by Googling "SRM007 internals." So, as you can see, TVR3 and 4 are located right next to the output tubes, and just a bit closer to them are TP1 and TP2. You have to connect one voltage meter probe to one point of TP1 and the other probe to the other point of TP1. In other words you are measuring the voltage between the two points of TP1. Then do the same thing with TP2. If you can't get the voltage to zero then you probably need to replace the tube, since what you are doing with this step is adjusting the plate voltages of each section of the tube to be equal to each other.

 

[Whitigir]

I have the trv 1 and 2 close to zero for both channels.

When placing the multimeter on tp1 and 2, this is where i run into problems . Im getting voltage even through all of the screws are turned to where they can not be turned anymore. Is the voltage suppose to be zero here as well? What do these things do (tp1 and 2) anyway?

Jim, some of us just aren't as smart as you or dont have experience with high voltage electrical equipment.
Youre welcome to make constructive comments, but no need to be condescending.

I'm brand new to the hobby, have absolutely no experience with these things and comments like that are offputting.

If you found an image of the srm 007tIIs internals that you want to share l, then that would be appreciated. I'm not the only one whom is looking for direction with biasing this thing, so thanks.

First word of advices.....please don’t kill yourself, high voltage is not something to fool around with

 

[Pokemonn]

Because that’s BS. I sure as hell wouldn’t want to listen to monitors over a Stax/BHSE

Thats not BS at all. current Stax lineups sounds slightly NO SOUL harsh cold lifeless especially WITHOUT Schiit Loki Mini compare to KEF LS50 IMO.
Stax amps have been really bother me. Lol
http://www.schiit.com/products/loki
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/schiit-audio-loki-mini-four-band-equalizer-head-fi-tv.861331/

 

[Muffinhead]

I have the trv 1 and 2 close to zero for both channels.

When placing the multimeter on tp1 and 2, this is where i run into problems . Im getting voltage even through all of the screws are turned to where they can not be turned anymore. Is the voltage suppose to be zero here as well? What do these things do (tp1 and 2) anyway?

Jim, some of us just aren't as smart as you or dont have experience with high voltage electrical equipment.
Youre welcome to make constructive comments, but no need to be condescending.

I'm brand new to the hobby, have absolutely no experience with these things and comments like that are offputting.

If you found an image of the srm 007tIIs internals that you want to share l, then that would be appreciated. I'm not the only one whom is looking for direction with biasing this thing, so thanks.

A little knowledge about the most dangerous components of an amplifier goes a long way. As for the biasing, I've only biased the T1, so IDK if the internals are similar. But I never was turning the adjustment pots all the way. I was doing very fine adjustments while looking at the multimeter while its leads were put into thr output sockets. Chances are you're cranking the adjustment pots all the way which isn't going to get you anywhere close to where you need to be.

 

[kevin gilmore]

if tvr1 is all the way to one side or the other parts including R13,R14,Z1,Z2 may burn up.
Put all pots in the middle and start again.

Note: the way the srm-007t works is different from the tA and tII
On the 007t tvr3 and tvr4 should be set to 200 ohms (500 ohm pot). on the tA and TII it should be set in the middle. (2k pot)

Repeat the following a few times over 30 minutes
Then put a voltmeter between TP1 and TP2 and adjust TVR1 for zero
(if you have to turn tvr1 more than .25 turn in either direction, stop and get new tubes)
Then put a voltmeter between either TP1 or TP2 and Ground and adjust TVR2 for zero
Then put a voltmeter between both TP1 and adjust TVR3 to zero
Then put a voltmeter between both TP2 and adjust TVR4 to zero
end repeat

If you can't get the last 2 to zero, then get better tubes. Seriously just because someone sold you some expensive NOS tubes that they said were matched...