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Jan 16, 2018 at 10:57 PM Post #13,773 of 25,481
20180116_225419.jpg 20180116_225330.jpg Update: I have all but two caps replaced. The last two say "BP" on them. Does this mean they have no polarity? Also,it appears the trace has lifted on the solder point I showed earlier. Testing for continuity came back negative. What should I do?
 
Jan 16, 2018 at 11:32 PM Post #13,774 of 25,481
Suck the solder off the bad joint. Use a razor blade to cut off the lifted part of the trace. Strip the lacquer off a bit of the good part of the trace down to the copper. Then bend the long lead of the new cap flat and parallel to the exposed copper and solder directly to it. You'll need to shorten the lead to the appropriate length before soldering.
 
Jan 16, 2018 at 11:35 PM Post #13,775 of 25,481
Tinkerer said:
Suck the solder off the bad joint. Use a razor blade to cut off the lifted part of the trace. Strip the lacquer off a bit of the good part of the trace down to the copper. Then bend the long lead of the new cap flat and parallel to the exposed copper and solder directly to it. You'll need to shorten the lead to the appropriate length before soldering.
Click to expand...
Thanks a lot! Would it be better to use some insulated wire I have on hand instead of the exposed lead of the capacitor to connect to the trace?
 
Jan 16, 2018 at 11:50 PM Post #13,777 of 25,481
Muffinhead said:
Update: I have all but two caps replaced. The last two say "BP" on them. Does this mean they have no polarity? Also,it appears the trace has lifted on the solder point I showed earlier. Testing for continuity came back negative. What should I do?
Click to expand...

If you ordered the caps I specified, all the caps should be polarized, and polarized caps have the negative lead shorter than the positive lead.
 
Jan 16, 2018 at 11:59 PM Post #13,778 of 25,481
JimL11 said:
If you ordered the caps I specified, all the caps should be polarized, and polarized caps have the negative lead shorter than the positive lead.
Click to expand...
I didn't realize there even were BP caps, so I ordered based on their capacitance and voltage.
Here's the page: https://www.mouser.com/productdetail/647-ues1h330mpm
These caps do have one lead shorter than the other. With them being non-polar, are they not suitable?
 
Jan 17, 2018 at 4:03 PM Post #13,781 of 25,481
Are the L300/500/700 all the same size, physically? I got my L300 yesterday and I was surprised how small it is compared to every Lambda I've seen previously.

I don't like coming to any conclusions about new gear without having listened for at least a week, but my impression is that the L300 struggles to overcome its limitations due to that small size. Its low bass isn't effortless like in the bigger models. Subbass is still there but it sounds off somehow, like it loses texture and growl just by digging that deep. One of my first thoughts was that if the L500 is regularly sized, it'll be worth stepping up to that model for the larger dimensions alone.

I don't want to share any other L300 observations until I'm more confident in them, but I'll be comparing them to a 407 and a way old Professional Signature eventually :)
 
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Jan 17, 2018 at 4:46 PM Post #13,782 of 25,481
I thought people were pad rolling l500/l700 pads onto the l300. And the limited edition l300 has the stators from the l700. Also the pics I have seen of the three together make them look the same size.
 
Jan 17, 2018 at 5:03 PM Post #13,783 of 25,481
Muffinhead said:
I also got silicone grease...is this ok to apply to the heat sink or should I get a different kind of thermal paste?
Click to expand...

I think it bears repeating to BE CAREFUL! There's nothing wrong with aborting a project or putting it aside when you discover you're in over your head.

What made you decide to tackle this project anyway? Is this your first time working with individual components in a circuit you don't understand? Even if this is a desperate Hail Mary project that's

I would strongly suggest you put this project on hold temporarily while you start with something easier and more forgiving first. Build an Objective2 or something! Building the o2, and--just as important--following the testing procedure will give you the kind of experience you need in order to realize how far in over your head you are now.

It's not that I don't think you can successfully pull this off. In point of fact I'm afraid you will, which then might embolden you to take on projects even more over your head. And the last thing I want is to discourage you from asking questions, since you seem to (eventually, at least) listen to the advice given. But it's concerning that you keep suggesting new bad ideas after your first bad idea is shot down, even when someone competent has already explained the best solution.

These are potentially catastrophic mistakes you seem like you want to make! Who knows what other dangerous mistakes you're making that you didn't think to ask about?
 
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Jan 17, 2018 at 5:29 PM Post #13,784 of 25,481
DJ The Rocket said:
I think it bears repeating to BE CAREFUL! There's nothing wrong with aborting a project or putting it aside when you discover you're in over your head.

What made you decide to tackle this project anyway? Is this your first time working with individual components in a circuit you don't understand? Even if this is a desperate Hail Mary project that's

I would strongly suggest you put this project on hold temporarily while you start with something easier and more forgiving first. Build an Objective2 or something! Building the o2, and--just as important--following the testing procedure will give you the kind of experience you need in order to realize how far in over your head you are now.

It's not that I don't think you can successfully pull this off. In point of fact I'm afraid you will, which then might embolden you to take on projects even more over your head. And the last thing I want is to discourage you from asking questions, since you seem to (eventually, at least) listen to the advice given. But it's concerning that you keep suggesting new bad ideas after your first bad idea is shot down, even when someone competent has already explained the best solution.

These are potentially catastrophic mistakes you seem like you want to make! Who knows what other dangerous mistakes you're making that you didn't think to ask about?
Click to expand...
I appreciate your concern. JimL11 suggested I take on this project after I asked about buying alternatives to the T1, so I bought the parts. It's all gone from there. I've spent enough money in parts to buy a cheap amp, and I don't want to buy another amp. I'm pretty set on following through with this.
 
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