The Stax Thread III
Nov 13, 2020 at 11:19 PM Post #19,291 of 25,464
Hi currently I have the Zen Dac, so planning connect balanced out to Xlr of 353x. I believe balanced out from Zen Dac would be better than RCA which I am currently using. if someone has experience here, welcome to comment.

I would like to upgrade my DAC in future, any suggestions (I am driving L700s)??

thanks Tumpux and Elton for your replies!
if your cable is fairly short running RCA and XLR wont make a huge difference from my personal experience, but lets don't get into this rca vs xlr topic since can get very complicated. lol
 
Nov 13, 2020 at 11:49 PM Post #19,292 of 25,464
if your cable is fairly short running RCA and XLR wont make a huge difference from my personal experience, but lets don't get into this rca vs xlr topic since can get very complicated. lol
Thanks for the reply.
The whole intention on my query was if the internals of IFI Zen Dac provide a better signal from balanced out vs RCA out. I think it is generally agreed that the 353x would not make much of difference with rca vs xlr inputs, so agree w you on this point.

So from the DAC performance perspective for the resolution Stax provides, I think I shall check out Bifrost 2 / Ares II. Any other suggestions are welcome.

regards
 
Nov 13, 2020 at 11:51 PM Post #19,293 of 25,464
I have L300s (and NB Lambdas, RR1s and Hives) connected to an unmodded SRM-T1S and recently made the decision on a new DAC. I had used it with a Modi MB and a Khadas Toneboard and they were nice, but I wanted something more. I am less concerned about measurements, but if you are just get a Topping and be happy, imo. I wanted an R2R DAC, and looked at RME ADI-2, Soekris 1541, and Denafripe ARES II. I would have been happy with any of those, and I looked into the EC Designs Mosaic UV too - but ultimately I found a good deal on a used Schiit Bifrost 2 and have been very happy with it. I worried the R2Rs (and Schiit specifically) could eliminate the crisp high end of electrostatics but I haven't found that to be the case. I've found the bass to have a lot more heft with it, yes, but the separation and soundstage were improved over the Mimby and the Khadas, without taking away the electrostatic magic that made me sell off most of dynamics and planars in the first place.

I also wanted to share my little dustcover hack, using an Amazon stadium-friendly clear tote bag that I got, 2 for $11. It fits perfectly on all my dual-can stands. I've been very happy with them. I just cut off the handles.
dusytop.jpg
Some excellent tricks there mate! Currently I am storing in the original pckaging in this hit and humid climate.

And I will try to find a way to audition Bifrost 2. Thanks
 
Nov 14, 2020 at 12:11 AM Post #19,294 of 25,464
hi! i recently purchased an sr-007mk1/srm-007t system for what i think is quite cheap - about 1500 usd all told, including shipping and proxy fees. and yes, i'm fully aware of the risks that come with purchasing secondhand stuff, so here's hoping it's not too broken! (frankly, my expectations are low)

seller noted only one issue, which was that the left cable disconnected the sound if tugged on. this seems to be a relatively common issue, and it seems like people have fixed it, but a lot of threads are old and missing pictures, or just don't really explain how to fix it beyond some solder magic. how difficult would this be to repair? i do have a soldering station and some experience with smd and throughhole soldering, though if it's extremely difficult i don't mind finding someone to do it for me.

i'm also curious about the tubes on the 007t, since it seems it was used quite a bit and seller has had the system for over a decade. it seems like i may need to replace the tubes and rebias them? would it be better to use a different energizer entirely?

thanks in advance! i should be receiving the set within the week, and with any luck it'll at least be listenable. if not, i've got an sr-l300 to tide me over =)
 
Nov 14, 2020 at 2:54 AM Post #19,295 of 25,464
hi! i recently purchased an sr-007mk1/srm-007t system for what i think is quite cheap - about 1500 usd all told, including shipping and proxy fees. and yes, i'm fully aware of the risks that come with purchasing secondhand stuff, so here's hoping it's not too broken! (frankly, my expectations are low)

seller noted only one issue, which was that the left cable disconnected the sound if tugged on. this seems to be a relatively common issue, and it seems like people have fixed it, but a lot of threads are old and missing pictures, or just don't really explain how to fix it beyond some solder magic. how difficult would this be to repair? i do have a soldering station and some experience with smd and throughhole soldering, though if it's extremely difficult i don't mind finding someone to do it for me.

i'm also curious about the tubes on the 007t, since it seems it was used quite a bit and seller has had the system for over a decade. it seems like i may need to replace the tubes and rebias them? would it be better to use a different energizer entirely?

thanks in advance! i should be receiving the set within the week, and with any luck it'll at least be listenable. if not, i've got an sr-l300 to tide me over =)
why don't just send it back to stax to fix?
 
Nov 14, 2020 at 5:18 AM Post #19,296 of 25,464
Is there a list somewhere of all commercially available electrostatic amps and their specifications? I am looking for TOTL and I do my research and then someone mentions some obscure manufacturer that makes 3 a year in a shed at the bottom of a volcano that is supposed to be the best and then I realise I don't know exactly what is available.
This might be the best comment that I've read all year.
 
Nov 14, 2020 at 5:46 AM Post #19,297 of 25,464
hi! i recently purchased an sr-007mk1/srm-007t system for what i think is quite cheap - about 1500 usd all told, including shipping and proxy fees. and yes, i'm fully aware of the risks that come with purchasing secondhand stuff, so here's hoping it's not too broken! (frankly, my expectations are low)

seller noted only one issue, which was that the left cable disconnected the sound if tugged on. this seems to be a relatively common issue, and it seems like people have fixed it, but a lot of threads are old and missing pictures, or just don't really explain how to fix it beyond some solder magic. how difficult would this be to repair? i do have a soldering station and some experience with smd and throughhole soldering, though if it's extremely difficult i don't mind finding someone to do it for me.

i'm also curious about the tubes on the 007t, since it seems it was used quite a bit and seller has had the system for over a decade. it seems like i may need to replace the tubes and rebias them? would it be better to use a different energizer entirely?

thanks in advance! i should be receiving the set within the week, and with any luck it'll at least be listenable. if not, i've got an sr-l300 to tide me over =)
That a very good deal. If you have soldering skills the hardest part is to open the headphone cut the cable shorter by 3-4 cm and resolder. That's how I fixed my Mk1 it a common problem because they don't have strain relief/support like the mk2 where the cable enter the headphone. I did the same for both side so it equal length.
 
Nov 16, 2020 at 2:25 PM Post #19,299 of 25,464
I know the feeling. I recently bought the Kaldas RR1 and stax 353x. I made sure I ordered the amp before I ordered the headphone, just so that I wasn’t waiting for an amp with headphones in hand. That would’ve driven me crazy. Since then, I’ve ordered and received Stax 003 mk2 earphones, and Drop Koss esp with Stax 5 pin adapter, (which I am still waiting on). Only reason I’m not going crazy for the koss is because I’m still getting used to the Stax 003. I’m shocked how good it sounds. I’m using RME ADI2 with a shelf bass boost. I can’t wait to hear the Koss
The amplifier arrived this morning. Have spent an afternoon of bliss.
 
Nov 17, 2020 at 5:39 AM Post #19,302 of 25,464
Stax actually burns them in for 100 hour i read somewhere in the past.
so brand new stax are already burn in? but i can remember that my 009 seems to sounds better after a few week...not sure why
 
Nov 17, 2020 at 1:41 PM Post #19,303 of 25,464
In a factory tour article from a few years ago it was said all their headphones are energized for a period of 7-10 days as a part of their QA process. I doubt they're actually driven with any audio signals though.

https://www.ikebe-gakki.com/web-ikebe/pr_STAX_intvw/index.html

aDSC_0567.jpg
 
Nov 17, 2020 at 2:06 PM Post #19,304 of 25,464
In a factory tour article from a few years ago it was said all their headphones are energized for a period of 7-10 days as a part of their QA process. I doubt they're actually driven with any audio signals though.

https://www.ikebe-gakki.com/web-ikebe/pr_STAX_intvw/index.html

aDSC_0567.jpg
It was my understanding that they should never be run in on empty and as a minimum some books should be lodged between each earspeaker. I have no idea whether this is actually true or whether it’s just another old wives tale.

I can say that having spent about 2 hours since I started using mine yesterday I have noticed the mids smoothing out.
 
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Nov 17, 2020 at 3:46 PM Post #19,305 of 25,464
Has any one ordered any Stax products, new or used from Japan? I was just wonder if there are any issues doing this, aside from no warranty? Does one have to pay taxs or import duties?
 

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