The Stax Thread III
Apr 25, 2019 at 11:04 AM Post #17,566 of 22,931

ahmedie

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The "stax fart" is caused by the dust covers. It is a crinkling sound - are you sure this is what you are hearing? Which headphone are you experiencing this with? And what amp are you using (which could be clipping if you are forcing it to do things it can't)?
I think I am hearing driver distortion:cold_sweat: . I am using L300LE and stax`s 323s amp
 
Apr 25, 2019 at 11:09 PM Post #17,568 of 22,931

VRacer-111

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I eq bass about 6dp+ more but on some music the low frequencies causes stax fart speciall at higher volume, does higher amp (kggshv etc.) fix that to some extent ? Thank you !

The only STAX farts I've had is when they were sealed 100%...any movement would cause them, way too annoying with fully sealed pads. Since taking 2 segments out of the Fun-tack ring there is zero STAX farts and noticeable increase in bass. I do listen at a lower level, and only have +3.5db lower shelf @57Hz & +1.5db peak @ 82Hz. Bass from the modded L300 Limited is 404LE level, but has better overall sound with larger presentation space and much better imaging.

If you are getting that from current setup, you will get it and more from a more powerful setup. The better amps than the SRM-323S (that's what I started off with) will get you more bass impact and punch with a fuller, smoother sound and better extension. My L300 Limited hits absolutely hard and solid on my setup, outdoing any of the planar magnetics I've heard from Audeze. Best bass I've heard period has been from my rig and a STAX SR-007 Mark2, the modded L300 Limiteds are right behind it.
 
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Apr 26, 2019 at 2:34 AM Post #17,569 of 22,931

Sound Eq

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The only STAX farts I've had is when they were sealed 100%...any movement would cause them, way too annoying with fully sealed pads. Since taking 2 segments out of the Fun-tack ring there is zero STAX farts and noticeable increase in bass. I do listen at a lower level, and only have +3.5db lower shelf @57Hz & +1.5db peak @ 82Hz. Bass from the modded L300 Limited is 404LE level, but has better overall sound with larger presentation space and much better imaging.

If you are getting that from current setup, you will get it and more from a more powerful setup. The better amps than the SRM-323S (that's what I started off with) will get you more bass impact and punch with a fuller, smoother sound and better extension. My L300 Limited hits absolutely hard and solid on my setup, outdoing any of the planar magnetics I've heard from Audeze. Best bass I've heard period has been from my rig and a STAX SR-007 Mark2, the modded L300 Limiteds are right behind it.

hi what mod did you do to your L300LE
 
Apr 26, 2019 at 5:55 PM Post #17,572 of 22,931

Sound Eq

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Apr 26, 2019 at 9:26 PM Post #17,573 of 22,931

VRacer-111

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i have the l700 pads, so now i will buy the blu tuck thing, but what is meant by being slow with mod

Like there is just a tad more resistance of movement with the driver...it's a feel thing, but only feel that way when its fully sealed which isn't ideal. Best to leave a small gap of two walled segments in length for better bass and no slowed down feeling. I'll be doing the same Blu-tack mod to an L300 tomorrow and take pictures of the gap to show what I mean.
 
Apr 27, 2019 at 3:51 AM Post #17,574 of 22,931

Sound Eq

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Like there is just a tad more resistance of movement with the driver...it's a feel thing, but only feel that way when its fully sealed which isn't ideal. Best to leave a small gap of two walled segments in length for better bass and no slowed down feeling. I'll be doing the same Blu-tack mod to an L300 tomorrow and take pictures of the gap to show what I mean.
great plz send pics, does the mod material matter in anything
 
Apr 27, 2019 at 8:16 AM Post #17,575 of 22,931

JimL11

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I eq bass about 6dp+ more but on some music the low frequencies causes stax fart speciall at higher volume, does higher amp (kggshv etc.) fix that to some extent ? Thank you !

We can look at the headroom, roughly, by using the power supply voltages. For example, the Stax 007 and 727 use +/-350V, the BHSE +/-400V, the Carbon +/-40 to 450 volts and the T2 +/-500 volts. Maximum voltage swing is approximately 4x the positive voltage (amplifier is balanced out, so one output swings between, say, +400 and -400 while the other swings between-400 and +400). So the additional output of the T2 above the 727, for example, is the ratio between 50 and 35, or approximately 43%. This works out to about 3 dB increase in maximum volume before clipping, so a T2 will help a bit but not a lot.

OTOH, the loudest frequencies in music tend to occur in the mid bass to lower midrange, say from 50-300 Hz (roughly from the lowest G# to middle D on a piano). Also note that for the same output, the maximum excursion of the diaphragms occurs at bass frequencies, the lower the greater, by a ratio of 1/(f*f) [f squared]. This means that the likelihood of the diaphragm clipping (i.e. hitting the stators) is most likely in the bass. This could cause a noise that might be interpreted as the Stax fart, although I have no personal experience as I've never played loudly enough to cause this issue - nor should you, for the long term health of your ears.

Finally, a 6dB increase in EQ amounts to 4x the power and 2x the voltage compared to flat. Combined with playing loudly this migh, or might not, be enough to cause amp or headphone clipping.
 
Apr 27, 2019 at 6:01 PM Post #17,577 of 22,931

kevin gilmore

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the output is balanced. So with +/-400v power supplies the maximum voltage swing can be 1600 volts peak to peak measured stator to stator.

Which is why some people who like it loud don't like the D10 which is only 700 VPPSS
 
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Apr 30, 2019 at 1:54 PM Post #17,579 of 22,931

Sound Eq

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Like there is just a tad more resistance of movement with the driver...it's a feel thing, but only feel that way when its fully sealed which isn't ideal. Best to leave a small gap of two walled segments in length for better bass and no slowed down feeling. I'll be doing the same Blu-tack mod to an L300 tomorrow and take pictures of the gap to show what I mean.
any update on mod pics plz
 
Apr 30, 2019 at 11:56 PM Post #17,580 of 22,931

VRacer-111

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1.
i-WbzwRCF.jpg


2. One stick works for both cups, break stick in half:
i-QQ4SWxZ.jpg


3. Roll out a 1/2 stick to where it fits on inner channel like shown below:
i-Bn3KDsj.jpg


4. Break segment off that is little less than 2 ribs of the channel. Will need to have it a little longer than the rib walls so it can seal against them.
i-VnMfPj4.jpg


5. Roll the piece broken off so it will attach to both ends of the original thicker segment that was rolled out:
i-7qmzCnG.jpg


6. Press it down and flatten to where it's sticking just above the channel by about a millimeter or so, and push the overhanging ends flush against the surface of the two ribs to seal. Make sure to keep the two rear peg hole clear of the putty:
i-bNwLWQw.jpg


7. Alternate view:
i-L2gvvgr.jpg


8. Press on pads at the corners, then work front to rear to press a finger inside pad on the plastic pad plate and press it hard into the cup/grille to seal pads to the housing. Keep working around the inside perimeter until you have it seated as far as it will go, then flatten the oozed seam against the inside perimeter wall with a finger. Hard to get a picture of this, but basically if you can see the putty below then your finger will go above it and under the pad and firmly press down towards the outside...just take your time and use care as you go around the perimeter, no need to rush.
i-pqfdKjF.jpg


9. Repeat for other side to complete.... then you're finished.
i-gZHHRS5.jpg
 
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