Vesperaudio
Member of the Trade: Vesperaudio
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This pads were definately produced in our workshop)
The Stax SR-L500 and SR-L700 Impressions Thread
- Thread starter crazychile
- Start date
arielext
Headphoneus Supremus
Sorry to derail a bit here but what kind of leather are you using?
Vesperaudio
Member of the Trade: Vesperaudio
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We use chevreau and sheep leather.
If anyone is wondering what the measured result of the blutack mod is, this is with my L500 pair:
Red = blutack modded (fully sealed)
Green = stock
Bye mid-bass crap/sub-bass roll-off. Welcome the occasional Stax fart, proper bass. The bass is well controlled, and a lot more linear now. Must have mod imo.
Red = blutack modded (fully sealed)
Green = stock
Bye mid-bass crap/sub-bass roll-off. Welcome the occasional Stax fart, proper bass. The bass is well controlled, and a lot more linear now. Must have mod imo.
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VRacer-111
1000+ Head-Fier
If anyone is wondering what the measured result of the blutack mod is, this is with my L500 pair:
Red = blutack modded
Green = stock
Bye mid-bass crap/sub-bass roll-off. Welcome the occasional Stax fart, proper bass. The bass is well controlled, and a lot more linear now. Must have mod imo.
Fully sealed or small section (~2 segments) left unsealed?
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VRacer-111
1000+ Head-Fier
Should try with a small, two segment piece of the blu-tak removed...would be interested in what the frequency response looks like. To my ears its even more subbass extension and impact than fully sealed, and with much less annoying STAX farts... only very occasionaly happen compared to the even think about moving your jaw and instant "BBBBZZZZZZT" when fully sealed. And a single segment piece removed seemed worse than stock in regards to subbass. Would be nice to have some data on this... 
Pictures of the 2-segment gap on an L300 with L500 pads I recently did.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Audio/n-6fh3fz/i-bNwLWQw/0/fe7a6097/O/i-bNwLWQw.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Audio/n-6fh3fz/i-L2gvvgr/0/0bbf52be/O/i-L2gvvgr.jpg
My L300 Limited with L700 pads and Blu-tak mod (with 2 segment gap) has low end right in-line with the SR-404 Limited I have (which unfortunately has severe case of channel imbalance/failure now...)
Pictures of the 2-segment gap on an L300 with L500 pads I recently did.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Audio/n-6fh3fz/i-bNwLWQw/0/fe7a6097/O/i-bNwLWQw.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Audio/n-6fh3fz/i-L2gvvgr/0/0bbf52be/O/i-L2gvvgr.jpg
My L300 Limited with L700 pads and Blu-tak mod (with 2 segment gap) has low end right in-line with the SR-404 Limited I have (which unfortunately has severe case of channel imbalance/failure now...)
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Well, the aim of the mod is to ensure getting the seal and hence good quality bass. The reason they have poor bass (imo), is there's no seal, and being familiar with Staxes, that was obvious to me since I got the L500.
I'm afraid for quality bass, one has got to embrace the (ocassional) fart.
Partial seal, 2 segment gap.
Teal: stock
Red: 2 segment gap.
I'm afraid for quality bass, one has got to embrace the (ocassional) fart.
Partial seal, 2 segment gap.
Teal: stock
Red: 2 segment gap.
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I have tried with a new layer of blutack, thinner this time, fully sealed.
The bass extends noticeably lower, almost competing with my best planars. I will fine tune this over the next few days and post my final version of the mod with pics.
For a more empirical approach, such as for someone without a measurement tool, the giveaway you are nailing the quality of the bass seems to be how easy it is to trigger the Stax fart, while wearing the headphones. If the seal is really good, the fart triggers easier and you'll get more linear bass with less humps/dips in return.
red: No gap, fully sealed, thin blutack layer. Raw measurement, mic calibration but no headphone comp applied this time.
The bass extends noticeably lower, almost competing with my best planars. I will fine tune this over the next few days and post my final version of the mod with pics.
For a more empirical approach, such as for someone without a measurement tool, the giveaway you are nailing the quality of the bass seems to be how easy it is to trigger the Stax fart, while wearing the headphones. If the seal is really good, the fart triggers easier and you'll get more linear bass with less humps/dips in return.
red: No gap, fully sealed, thin blutack layer. Raw measurement, mic calibration but no headphone comp applied this time.
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catscratch
Headphoneus Supremus
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Good stuff. What do you use to measure and what compensation do you use in your measurements?
Another good tool for those without measurements is a sine sweep or a test tone generator. You can pretty clearly hear where the bass rolls off, though it takes a bit more practice to hear if it's boosted or bloated anywhere.
Another good tool for those without measurements is a sine sweep or a test tone generator. You can pretty clearly hear where the bass rolls off, though it takes a bit more practice to hear if it's boosted or bloated anywhere.
VRacer-111
1000+ Head-Fier
Thanks for doing this... guess I like that hump in the bottom of the midbass. I'll try reverting back to full seal again. The STAX farts with full seal are beyond annoying though... no 'occasional' with it, any movement of the jaw or putting them on or taking them off triggers it fiercely. This is on my L300 Limited with L700 lambskin pads, the L500 pads are much stiffer and don't seal as well.
Also, just making sure, but did you ensure to fully seal the ends of each segment...any kind of a gap between the top edge of the wall of the segment and the blu-tak bead would basically let it bleed into the channel into aother segment. I know there was a difference in sound for me between 1 and 2 segments of gap, much prefer the 2 segments of gap.
Also, just making sure, but did you ensure to fully seal the ends of each segment...any kind of a gap between the top edge of the wall of the segment and the blu-tak bead would basically let it bleed into the channel into aother segment. I know there was a difference in sound for me between 1 and 2 segments of gap, much prefer the 2 segments of gap.
Yoram Diamand
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MK2 has reached Youtube
arielext
Headphoneus Supremus
FYI my L500s with extra pads are for sale:
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/fs-stax-l500-extra-pads.909381/
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/fs-stax-l500-extra-pads.909381/
AudioThief
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Hi guys. Asked the same over in the l300 thread but..
Coming from the 007 mk1, I'm downgrading to L300 or I can get a used 507. I'll purchase the srm 252s to drive them. Anyone have any opinion on where the 507 places itself in the current line of L300/L500/L700? I have previously owned the L300 and enjoyed them very much.
Coming from the 007 mk1, I'm downgrading to L300 or I can get a used 507. I'll purchase the srm 252s to drive them. Anyone have any opinion on where the 507 places itself in the current line of L300/L500/L700? I have previously owned the L300 and enjoyed them very much.
Pahani
500+ Head-Fier
I can't directly answer your question, but I can answer about SR207 vs L700, as I own both.
SR207 and L700 have surprisingly about the same FR...which is to say, largely Neutral to my ears. L700 simply outdoes SR207 in every category to me, though. Faster, more detailed, more comfortable, etc.
How the 207 compares to the 507, and the L300 to the L700, someone else will have to answer for you.
SR207 and L700 have surprisingly about the same FR...which is to say, largely Neutral to my ears. L700 simply outdoes SR207 in every category to me, though. Faster, more detailed, more comfortable, etc.
How the 207 compares to the 507, and the L300 to the L700, someone else will have to answer for you.
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