The new Sansui SS-100 Thread
Mar 18, 2015 at 8:51 AM Post #136 of 246
Yamaha's older orthos seem to target a diffuse field curve fairly religiously, and I don't know that modders deviate from this too much, Tyll's measurements being an example. I'd guess the diffuse field curve isn't ideal for your ear, and that the ss-100 will show another one.
 
On the other hand, the hp-50 can be modded to have a smooth response with low overall distortion, meaning you get whatever signature you're after as long as you know eq, meaning that you could match or exceed the ss-100 over much of the frequency range for peanuts, which I guess was the original idea. Won't do much about the soundstage, though.
 
Apr 21, 2015 at 2:23 AM Post #137 of 246
One quick update.
 
The SS-100 has made me stop wanting headphones. I can finally immerse myself in the music and forget I'm listening to a headphone, there's no contest, nothing else I've tried since has even come close to recreating the transparency and involvement that these are capable of. Musical might be the correct word. Magical might be more correct. I don't know, and I don't care. These are it for me.
 
I'm selling my other stuff, so keep an eye out. I'm going to be putting up a lot of extremely rare equipment in the next few weeks. 
 
Apr 21, 2015 at 2:49 PM Post #139 of 246
How's the comfort now? Still arse or did you figure out a way to make them more comfortable?

no lol they're still uncomfortable, I just deal with it, there's really no way to make an on-ear be as comfortable as an over-ear without custom casted/moulded foam pads of some kind and changing the earpads messes with the sound too much
 
I also wear glasses so unless I angle them weirdly and sit them on top of the pads I can't get a seal with over-ears, which is the greater of the two evils imo, since doing that usually gives me a headache and makes my glasses fall off my face 
 
Apr 21, 2015 at 3:09 PM Post #140 of 246
  no lol they're still uncomfortable, I just deal with it, there's really no way to make an on-ear be as comfortable as an over-ear without custom casted/moulded foam pads of some kind and changing the earpads messes with the sound too much
 
I also wear glasses so unless I angle them weirdly and sit them on top of the pads I can't get a seal with over-ears, which is the greater of the two evils imo, since doing that usually gives me a headache and makes my glasses fall off my face 

 
Of course it could be seditious, but if you put SS100 drivers into Beyerdynamic style open housing you will be in heaven :)
 
Apr 21, 2015 at 3:10 PM Post #141 of 246
Off top: I'm just waiting for my new 2A3 4 watts amp (previously heard with ss100) to drive them, with high quality output transformers they sounded delicious :)
 
Apr 21, 2015 at 7:39 PM Post #142 of 246
Try the Shure 550 pads yet? They are cheap.
 
Apr 22, 2015 at 12:33 PM Post #143 of 246
  Try the Shure 550 pads yet? They are cheap.

I actually ordered them yesterday, but not for the SS-100, for the Toshiba HR-810 I'm modding. I plan on trying them on the SS-100 too.
 
Apr 22, 2015 at 7:12 PM Post #144 of 246
So, long time lurker first time poster. I got a pair of these recently that I've been fiddling with. First of all, let me say that they sound absolutely fantastic. I had a couple of questions however.


The main one is how to disassemble the cups. I want to recable them with something solid and quality instead of the almost 40 year old strand wire that's going green. The screws under the headband adjusters only give you access to the suspension gasket and then you have to use mounting adhesive to reseal them at the bottom. The inside of the ear has no accessible screws. It looks like the top and grill are held on by tension of a few metal tabs around the outside of the driver. But I can't tell if you're suppose to twist them or pop them with a screwdriver or what. Anyone who has dealt with these before, it would be a huge help if you know or have any pictures of a disassembled one. I haven't been able to find any.


But anyway here are mine, that I got at a good price. Needed a few minor repairs like the suspension gasket for the left ear but nothing major. I hate cleaning chrome and the old cover was wrecked on the jack so I upgraded it with a modern gold-plated 1/4 jack with unscrewable metal cover. And a few pictures to show the evolution of things. Everything I've done has been fully reversible up to this point.


Cleaned with gasket repaired

jNC0OtH.jpg



Drybrush paint touch ups (Coat d' arms aluminum and GW Bone white are perfect matches to the original paint colors)

YYpooEj.jpg



Tried it with Shure HPAEC750 over ear pads. They fit but clamped on the spot just above my ears way too much. I knew I needed more padding.

ZrZsqag.jpg



And current with new Audeze LCD-2 pads and some temporary extra padding headband I made from some foam and scrap white pleather. Better headband pad coming in the mail soon. Headband padding is necessary to let the arms extend enough to sit properly on your head with the thick pads instead of angled out to the side.

73hIBhi.jpg



Anyway, notes on what the current changes does to the sound. The bass is greater, tighter and better defined. The soundstage is increased in depth. You lose a little of the airiness but the preciseness and direction of sound as well as the instrumental separation is superior. But that's kind of what you would usually expect with a better seal. It's just great to be able to take advantage of the size of these big drivers. I just love them.


Another interesting note is this already has 4 conductors in the main cable and can be converted to balanced very easily without recabling the whole thing. Just terminate it in a male 4 pin XLR and you can plug in the 4 pin to new balanced amps or make/buy an adapter for dual 3 pin xlr balanced amps and still have a 1/4 stereo to 4 pin XLR female to play unbalanced on anything else.
 
Apr 23, 2015 at 3:27 AM Post #145 of 246
So, long time lurker first time poster. I got a pair of these recently that I've been fiddling with. First of all, let me say that they sound absolutely fantastic. I had a couple of questions however.


The main one is how to disassemble the cups. I want to recable them with something solid and quality instead of the almost 40 year old strand wire that's going green. The screws under the headband adjusters only give you access to the suspension gasket and then you have to use mounting adhesive to reseal them at the bottom. The inside of the ear has no accessible screws. It looks like the top and grill are held on by tension of a few metal tabs around the outside of the driver. But I can't tell if you're suppose to twist them or pop them with a screwdriver or what. Anyone who has dealt with these before, it would be a huge help if you know or have any pictures of a disassembled one. I haven't been able to find any.


But anyway here are mine, that I got at a good price. Needed a few minor repairs like the suspension gasket for the left ear but nothing major. I hate cleaning chrome and the old cover was wrecked on the jack so I upgraded it with a modern gold-plated 1/4 jack with unscrewable metal cover. And a few pictures to show the evolution of things. Everything I've done has been fully reversible up to this point.


Cleaned with gasket repaired

jNC0OtH.jpg



Drybrush paint touch ups (Coat d' arms aluminum and GW Bone white are perfect matches to the original paint colors)

YYpooEj.jpg



Tried it with Shure HPAEC750 over ear pads. They fit but clamped on the spot just above my ears way too much. I knew I needed more padding.
Öp
ZrZsqag.jpg



And current with new Audeze LCD-2 pads and some temporary extra padding headband I made from some foam and scrap white pleather. Better headband pad coming in the mail soon. Headband padding is necessary to let the arms extend enough to sit properly on your head with the thick pads instead of angled out to the side.

73hIBhi.jpg



Anyway, notes on what the current changes does to the sound. The bass is greater, tighter and better defined. The soundstage is increased in depth. You lose a little of the airiness but the preciseness and direction of sound as well as the instrumental separation is superior. But that's kind of what you would usually expect with a better seal. It's just great to be able to take advantage of the size of these big drivers. I just love them.


Another interesting note is this already has 4 conductors in the main cable and can be converted to balanced very easily without recabling the whole thing. Just terminate it in a male 4 pin XLR and you can plug in the 4 pin to new balanced amps or make/buy an adapter for dual 3 pin xlr balanced amps and still have a 1/4 stereo to 4 pin XLR female to play unbalanced on anything else.


Opening the cups: the grills are sort of bayonet mounted, with some glue. If you put your palm flat on the grill, press gently and move anti clockwise they should come off. A flat piece of rubber (from a bicycle tube) helps transfer the force.
 
Apr 23, 2015 at 4:02 AM Post #146 of 246
Gave it a shot and both came off fine, plus let me fix that one tiny irregular hump in the left grill. Thanks a lot. Everything I want to do with this headphone is doable without a lot of hassle now. Just have to wait for a few new supplies to come in.
 
Apr 23, 2015 at 3:00 PM Post #147 of 246
 
Opening the cups: the grills are sort of bayonet mounted, with some glue. If you put your palm flat on the grill, press gently and move anti clockwise they should come off. A flat piece of rubber (from a bicycle tube) helps transfer the force.

I suspected this myself. Thanks for confirming, now I know that I can do a recable if the stock one ever goes out. Is it the mesh itself or the entire back half of the cup (mesh, plastic and all) that comes off?
 
Apr 24, 2015 at 2:02 PM Post #149 of 246
How much did these cans cost back when they were actually being manufactured and distributed? What years were they are actually made?
 
Apr 24, 2015 at 2:27 PM Post #150 of 246
  How much did these cans cost back when they were actually being manufactured and distributed? What years were they are actually made?

They were first in production in 1975.
 
Original MSRP in Japan was 16,000 JPY, ~$133.50 USD in 1975. Factoring in inflation rates, that's almost $600 USD in today's money. These were the second most expensive headphone in the world at the time, the first being KOSS's ESP/10, which was <FAR> higher in cost (100,000 JPY)
 

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