The Mod Collective: Bring all your full sized headphone mods here.
Aug 20, 2020 at 1:27 PM Post #436 of 515

Slater

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I don’t know but I know can have various thickness. I’m also not sure if the material will fall apart into different layers when cut or how to seal the cut edge.

I would just seal the edges with heat. Dragging a hot soldering iron would do it. Or a hot wire foam cutter would really work great, because it would cut and seal in 1 step. You can also use one of the electric hobby cutters, that are a wood burning tool handle, with an Xacto blade in the end. It would also cut and seal in 1 step.
 
Aug 20, 2020 at 1:54 PM Post #437 of 515

frank2908

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Here is a mod I did to the front of my M1060.

I will be doing this too with the M1060c.

Basically I got around to treating the front of the driver and just treated the front of the driver with some 3m dampening sheets. Damn. This is a fantastic and easy mod. The sound is soo much clearer. I knew the resolution would increase but the SOUNDSTAGE!! Its sooo much BIGGER. Like the speaker itself is disappearing. The theory is that the front and back of the driver are metal and function as the magnets. So if the metal vibrates or rings the driver moves and messes up the resolution. This mod minimizes the vibration so the driver moves less and that cleans up the sound. The bass resolution is better and it seems more extended too.

The 3m sheets are basically a constrained layer dampening sheet and they are metal with a blue coating. So they are magnetic which helps keep them in place along with the adhesive.

They are hard to cut with scissors but you could get by. I use a cutter that works on kevlar string

I Also used the 3m sheets are super thin and shouldnt affect the airflow. You could try something else I suppose since people didn't see to care about the airflow with the fazors and fuzzors.

Protip: The sheets as mentioned are slightly magnetic so do be careful not to let them fall in the gaps or use anykind of metal too to flatten the strips.

Get them here

https://www.musicdirect.com/vibrati...tives-3m-damping-sheet-ea?variant=AAAPANEL2x6

So glad I did this finally and man why did i wait so long. This is fantastic and super easy.
How many mm thick are these 3m damping sheet? Are they similar to Dynamat sheet but use steel i stead of aluminium?
 
Aug 21, 2020 at 10:12 PM Post #438 of 515

Dawnrazor

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How many mm thick are these 3m damping sheet? Are they similar to Dynamat sheet but use steel i stead of aluminium?
conceptually the same I think. Constrained layer damping. But the 3m is much more rigid and doesnt "flow" like the dynamat. Its thinner than my credit card. the description says "15 mils thickness". I used it because it works and its so thin I doubt it will affect the air flow at all.
 
Sep 12, 2020 at 4:26 PM Post #439 of 515

472837

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I have combined a couple of mods on a pair of Superlux HD-660.

First, I put some angled, perforated sheepskin pads on.

After that, I wanted to dampen some resonance. I then cut up a sock, and stuffed it behind the driver.

IMG_20200910_014421.jpg


It really helped to dampen the driver, but the adding of the sock had also nearly killed all bass.

I Googled to find some universal ways to add bass to headphones, and found, that if you poke holes on the paper covering the back of the driver, it will increase the quantity of bass.

IMG_20200910_015545.jpg


I started out with poking a single hole at each driver, but I am now up to 5 holes at each driver.

For me, it has given me a DT770-like headphone at half the cost. (Also adding the cost of the pads)
 
Dec 4, 2020 at 1:19 AM Post #441 of 515

LuminousMazim

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A cool discussion going on here about my stacking magnet mod.

Check it out: https://www.head-fi.org/threads/stacking-magnets.839878/

Cheap, easy, 100% reversible, and cleaner/faster sound.

Hey I look this thread a while ago and decided to go with magnet mod on my pro82. First Impression, decent improvement. It's not changed the sound signature but improves it. I don't know how to explain it, it just cleaner. I can't prove with before and after frequency response sorry, since I don't have the equipment to do so.

Just one question tho, do I need to secure the magnet with some tape or glue?
 
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Dec 4, 2020 at 4:24 AM Post #442 of 515

Slater

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Just one question tho, do I need to secure the magnet with some tape or glue?

Awesome, glad you liked the mod, and thanks for sharing your results :)

As to your question, since the stacked magnet is attracted to the driver magnet, it will stay perfectly in place with the power of magnetic attraction alone.
 
Dec 4, 2020 at 4:58 AM Post #443 of 515

LuminousMazim

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Awesome, glad you liked the mod, and thanks for sharing your results :)

As to your question, since the stacked magnet is attracted to the driver magnet, it will stay perfectly in place with the power of magnetic attraction alone.

I forgot to mention that my driver doesn't have an exposed magnet it has shielding on top of it so the effect doesn't strong enough to really secure the position of the magnet. It's not gonna fall even when I shake it or anything, but it's still can move if push it a bit harder to the side. I decided to put a bit double tape with a hole in the middle to make it secure since I figure out that thin tape doesn't gonna affect the magnetic field that much.

Ordering my second magnet now, I read it somewhere that magnet stacking actually improves magnetic performance make the magnet even stronger + it will add a little bit of mass to driver.

2020_1204_13540900.jpg
2020_1204_13551000.jpg


source: Stacking magnet effect
 
Dec 4, 2020 at 6:21 AM Post #444 of 515

LuminousMazim

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I forgot to mention that my driver doesn't have an exposed magnet it has shielding on top of it so the effect doesn't strong enough to really secure....

Soo yeah after tinkering a bit my pro82 and accidentally broke the cable... well I am at a point with no return now so, screw it. Remove the housing to exposed the magnet. It's a bit small than i thought, it's fit perfectly with 20mm diameter magnet.

2020_1204_18185000~2.jpg

Driver Magnet

It's actually 20mm wide

Magnet housing

Magnet Housing.


Hope this mod gone well, at least please make some sound, any sound so i know it's not broken 😂
 
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Dec 4, 2020 at 12:05 PM Post #445 of 515

Slater

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Soo yeah after tinkering a bit my pro82 and accidentally broke the cable... well I am at a point with no return now so, screw it. Remove the housing to exposed the magnet. It's a bit small than i thought, it's fit perfectly with 20mm diameter magnet.

2020_1204_18185000~2.jpg
Driver Magnet
It's actually 20mm wide

Magnet housing
Magnet Housing.


Hope this mod gone well, at least please make some sound, any sound so i know it's not broken 😂

Sorry you broke the wires, but you came out ahead in the end. I hate those plastic shields, and I have removed them on a number of drivers so I have full access to the driver.
 
Dec 4, 2020 at 11:58 PM Post #446 of 515

LuminousMazim

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Sorry you broke the wires, but you came out ahead in the end. I hate those plastic shields, and I have removed them on a number of drivers so I have full access to the driver.

It's fine, ordering my soldering kit now :beerchug: I wonder what the housing for, it just plastic with a masking tape hole on it, doubt for the dampening since the back of the headphone have the same material.
 
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Dec 5, 2020 at 12:15 AM Post #448 of 515

Slater

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It's fine, ordering my soldering kit now :beerchug: I wonder what the housing for, it just plastic with a masking tape hole on it, doubt for the dampening since the back of the headphone have the same material.

I have no clue. Perhaps it’s an attempt to reduce or cancel reflections. Or it could be as simple as a method to make it harder to identify the driver (similar to how sole manufacturers sand off the part number from SMD and IC chips to reduce copying and reverse engineering.

Who knows. But in my experience the driver always sounds better with the plastic removed.
 
Dec 5, 2020 at 12:34 AM Post #449 of 515

LuminousMazim

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I have no clue. Perhaps it’s an attempt to reduce or cancel reflections. Or it could be as simple as a method to make it harder to identify the driver (similar to how sole manufacturers sand off the part number from SMD and IC chips to reduce copying and reverse engineering.

Who knows. But in my experience the driver always sounds better with the plastic removed.


Yeah, the most confusing part is Pro82 have 2 versions. (the old one and the new one) the new one have that housing, the old doesn't. But sound signature and response frequency almost identical as you can see from the picture;

comparo-drivers.jpg

picture source: diyheaven

will update as soon I fix the cable.
 

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