[Slater]

Yeah, when I have a can I don’t like, before I get rid of it (give it away, sell, etc) I always at least try modding it. I figure I have nothing to lose. 75% of the time, a few mods is all it needs to significantly improve. And even when that fails, I can always do a driver swap (assuming the headphone build and/or comfort is worth even messing with it).

I’ve only had very few headphones that truly were “beyond fixing”, which I attribute to terrible cup design. I mean, I can only fix so much with regards to the cup. If this guy did all of the cup engineering and tuning, there’s not much I can do about it:

 

[Cruelhand Luke]

Yeah, when I have a can I don’t like, before I get rid of it (give it away, sell, etc) I always at least try modding it. I figure I have nothing to lose. 75% of the time, a few mods is all it needs to significantly improve. And even when that fails, I can always do a driver swap (assuming the headphone build and/or comfort is worth even messing with it).

I’ve only had very few headphones that truly were “beyond fixing”, which I attribute to terrible cup design. I mean, I can only fix so much with regards to the cup. If this guy did all of the cup engineering and tuning, there’s not much I can do about it:

oh, I liked the NVX SPT100...and I modded it...I made a fully open back version with putty around the driver etc...but this woman I loved, liked them, so I gave them to her...but in hindsight, I should have given her different ones, because I wasn't done playing with the NVX... I want the cables back, I want the pads, the cups have mods that I want to try etc...

 

[Slater]

oh, I liked the NVX SPT100...and I modded it...I made a fully open back version with putty around the driver etc...but this woman I loved, liked them, so I gave them to her...but in hindsight, I should have given her different ones, because I wasn't done playing with the NVX... I want the cables back, I want the pads, the cups have mods that I want to try etc...

A wise man once said "never let a woman get between you and a good pair of headphones"

J/k LOL

 

[PockyG]

Hey all, I'm sure the people who followed the M1060 thread already knows about the 3d printer mods I've released, but I wanted to give some modding love to my SHP9500S since they are go-to for gaming. It's fairly well known that they're somewhat bass-lite so I modded them with a bass port in the rear. Sound fancy eh? Well, it's just a hole poked through in the filter in the rear of the driver.

And boy, do these guys kick in the low end now. I was perfectly happy with just one hole but for the bassheads out there maybe you could do two.

It's fairly simple. Unclip the earpads. Unscrew the 4 screws around the driver. Pull off the grill in the rear. Use a small screwdriver or sharp pencil and very gently poke one hole in one of the rear filter. Put on the pad and test.

It's a fairly well known "mod" but I haven't really seen others try it on the SHP9500S yet:
http://www.shure.com/americas/support/find-an-answer/what-is-tuned-bassport
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bass_reflex
http://www.instructables.com/id/Grado-Headphone-Modification/

 

[Cruelhand Luke]

A wise man once said "never let a woman get between you and a good pair of headphones"

J/k LOL

did that wise man have a name that rhymes with Shmater?
Yeah, it's ok, they weren't my favorites, I just realise in retrospect there was a ton more tuning potential there.

 

[Slater]

Hey all, I'm sure the people who followed the M1060 thread already knows about the 3d printer mods I've released, but I wanted to give some modding love to my SHP9500S since they are go-to for gaming. It's fairly well known that they're somewhat bass-lite so I modded them with a bass port in the rear. Sound fancy eh? Well, it's just a hole poked through in the filter in the rear of the driver.

And boy, do these guys kick in the low end now. I was perfectly happy with just one hole but for the bassheads out there maybe you could do two.

It's fairly simple. Unclip the earpads. Unscrew the 4 screws around the driver. Pull off the grill in the rear. Use a small screwdriver or sharp pencil and very gently poke one hole in one of the rear filter. Put on the pad and test.

It's a fairly well known "mod" but I haven't really seen others try it on the SHP9500S yet:
http://www.shure.com/americas/support/find-an-answer/what-is-tuned-bassport
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bass_reflex
http://www.instructables.com/id/Grado-Headphone-Modification/

Yeah, that's a great mod (I use it on a lot of headphones I want to add more bass/sub-bass to, including the SHP9500).

I would suggest just removing the filter instead of poking a hole in it. The filter just peels off like a sticker. This way, the hole in the magnet vent is more consistent in size.

And this way you can also save the filter on a scrap of wax paper (to use on other drivers or to put the SHP9500 back to stock if you ever want to). If there is a hole punched in it, you cannot use the filter any more.

 

[Cruelhand Luke]

I have to say, I've been listening to the bass modded MDR 7506 and I am REALLY pleased with the results. They were already my favorites for hip hop over my Akai FiddyX, because their overall sound was better...but I just wished they dug a little deeper and pulling out that foam worked like magic. I think once I get some Sorbothane they will be perfect...I suspect that cool looking metal cover that protects the driver is singing with unwanted vibrations and a little dot of sorb will make these headphones next level.

 

[dhruvmeena96]

Here the "OTTO MOD" or "SANTA'S BEARD MOD" for the SEAHF AWK-009 to tame the treble (also works for the Boarseman CX98 and other aggressive earphones): I ripped a bit of cotton out of Santa's beard and stuffed it between nozzles and rubber tips...the opposite of the "SLATER MOD" for the KZ KS3.
This mod shifts the whole spectrum a bit to the darker side.

And, hey, the SEAHF/Boarseman suddenly sound decent.

The beard needs some trimming

 

[dhruvmeena96]

Well, I am new here and finally found a thread where I can learn....a lot of things...

@Slater

I confirmed the tech from alpha and delta from their thread how does the ETL and HDSS works....

I have their white papers too and this technology is easy to diy plus you can have advantage of closed back with open back sound

I tried uploading the PDF of ETL technology working...

I have to say, I've been listening to the bass modded MDR 7506 and I am REALLY pleased with the results. They were already my favorites for hip hop over my Akai FiddyX, because their overall sound was better...but I just wished they dug a little deeper and pulling out that foam worked like magic. I think once I get some Sorbothane they will be perfect...I suspect that cool looking metal cover that protects the driver is singing with unwanted vibrations and a little dot of sorb will make these headphones next level.

Can you tag the mod again.....I want to mod my 7506

 

[dhruvmeena96]

I don't have nearly as much experience pulling apart headphones as you do, I have tried to be very judicious with my purchases...well, at least by headfi standards, lol....but the only other headphone I have seen with foam in the bass port like that was the NVX SPT100 (aka Brainwavz HM5)
1) I wish I hadn't given them away (love makes you do dumb things... like give a woman perfectly good headphones instead of giving her the crappy ones) 2) I wish I had tried this mod on them because one of my issues with them was being fairly bass-light for a closed back, large driver headphone. I suspect that foam was stifling some bass

Well they put foam or resistance there to restrict over excursion of driver and pre damp the strong standing waves...

Well Sony drivers are strong, please add some damping foam on cup to stop standing waves and clean any bloatiness in mids and bass while keeping the new extended bass profile...

Thank you

 

[Cruelhand Luke]

Well they put foam or resistance there to restrict over excursion of driver and pre damp the strong standing waves...

Well Sony drivers are strong, please add some damping foam on cup to stop standing waves and clean any bloatiness in mids and bass while keeping the new extended bass profile...

Thank you

I have Fidelio L2 pads on them which are really good at controlling bass and sort of...clarifying it? (I wish I could find a source for authentic L2 pads, they are really, really good) They also have some light filtering between the driver and the ear. There's no bass bloat, nothing flabby about the mids.

 

[dhruvmeena96]

I have Fidelio L2 pads on them which are really good at controlling bass and sort of...clarifying it? (I wish I could find a source for authentic L2 pads, they are really, really good) They also have some light filtering between the driver and the ear. There's no bass bloat, nothing flabby about the mids.

Well I got to know that your mdr7506 is having MDR v7 driver.


MDR v7 and v8 (discontinued legend) had foam whereas old v6 and MDR 7506 had thick nylon sheet glued there..

7506 can't do depth even after removing sheet, and you said your provided depth effect.


I think you have the limited production run 7506 of 2005-2008 with MDR v7 driver....

V7s are warmer than the V6 with somewhat less glaring treble and depth perception.




Well the Sony MDR 7506 were revised 5 times..

1st release 1991- samarium cobalt magnet
2nd release 1995 - neodymium magnet
3rd release 1999 - stiffer diaphragm
4th release 2003- nylon felt instead of wool felt and tighter channel balancing
5th release(rare)2005- MDR v7 improved version driver(all new feature and spec of v7, but on 40mm driver and it was not coated with titanium, but was created from mylar) with 7506 professional tuning.

This era of 2005 to 2008 MDR 7506 touched 250$..


I think you got lucky bro.


Update on ETL tech...I somewhat able to crack it.

Its a variable density open foam.

Center is thicker more damping foam going outwards toward less dense foam..

Why center is thickened, more dense. Well its actually thickened on those point where fundamental backwave(created by speaker) and overtone wave(reflected sound) are mixed and need more damping. And is then spreading outwards with low density because fundamental tone pressure is low and reflected tone are always weaker side plus it is not sweet spot so it need less damping.

This helps in uniform reflection instead of garbled frequency inside a cabinet or headphone cup and helps in reducing heavy damping material.

The more open(less dense foam) on side takes the energy from center(or sweet spot) due to law of transfer of energy and diffusion making the damping more linear.


I think I will try this mod and tell sound difference soon.

I am thinking of newer mods which are completely unconventional like what @Slater did when I was on Philips thread...

Stacking magnets and shl3300 damping open back.

I am right now thinking of more complex scientific approaches to the mod rather than normal mods..

Aim for my mod theory is...

1.The less the material used, the better.
2.Effect should be drastic.


And tension not, I will discuss with my old physics professor uncle, try some real heavy load application and then tell any mod theory..


I am bankrupt so don't expect a mod( I will try, only on cheap headphones....because I can buy only those).


@Cruelhand Luke

Standing waves are bad.... They don't increase decay but change the shape of decay..

All I wanted is that you get a very tight sound

Over excursions of driver is bad, but Sony can handle it very amazingly.....

 

[dhruvmeena96]

It is also often pointed out that the CD-900ST and v7 is not manufactured by Sony Consumer Electronics but by Sony Music Entertainment in Japan, a record company.

2005 version 7506 version was also made by Sony Music Entertainment...

First mod

1. You see the metal driver protector.... That thing is not good. They protect the diaphragm better than the plastic but rings on treble( which gives a sensation of brightness).

1.Damp the centre with some dynamat(circular)... It doesn't have hole on metal driver protector. Add foam disc on top of dynamat.

What does it do: makes metal protector heavy, less prone to ringing. Foam disc on top of dynamat absorbs the reflected treble from our skin and earpad bounced sound, evening out the focus from centre to whole headphone.

Many people did this

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/sony-mdr-7506-and-mdr-cd900st.232657/

Post 10, but mine have dynamat and foam/felt sheet over it.

2. Well its up to you, but I will suggest you do the backwave damping mod. Add foam on the back of the cup(inside).

 

[dhruvmeena96]

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/sony-mdr-7506-mod-thread.851663/


Check this out

You took the center foam and he punched hole on side damping paper.


What's the difference.

Center of driver main focus is treble, so your treble becomes smooth after you remove the foam( it is still boasted, lesser peaks and little elevation of upper bass register.( warmer tone with more clean treble)

His mod, lowers the pressure on diaphragm surrounds, where bass is prominent, increasing overall subbass...
(Neutral extended bass tone)

Both of mods don't increase bass by that much

Fuse both of them, and see the magic

 

[SHAMuuu]

It is also often pointed out that the CD-900ST and v7 is not manufactured by Sony Consumer Electronics but by Sony Music Entertainment in Japan, a record company.

2005 version 7506 version was also made by Sony Music Entertainment...

First mod

1. You see the metal driver protector.... That thing is not good. They protect the diaphragm better than the plastic but rings on treble( which gives a sensation of brightness).

1.Damp the centre with some dynamat(circular)... It doesn't have hole on metal driver protector. Add foam disc on top of dynamat.

What does it do: makes metal protector heavy, less prone to ringing. Foam disc on top of dynamat absorbs the reflected treble from our skin and earpad bounced sound, evening out the focus from centre to whole headphone.

Many people did this

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/sony-mdr-7506-and-mdr-cd900st.232657/

Post 10, but mine have dynamat and foam/felt sheet over it.

2. Well its up to you, but I will suggest you do the backwave damping mod. Add foam on the back of the cup(inside).

The 900st has so many custom options/ mod options in Japan both in terms of aesthetics and performance.

Hifiguy528 also recommends them over the its 2 other Sony Brothers.

I would love to grab these and play with them