The Headphone Driver Pics Thread
Apr 6, 2021 at 8:09 PM Post #1,726 of 1,780

thatoneheadphonedood

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Heres the new driver for the akg k52’s! The damping i think its what its called was falling out so i just took it out.
image.jpg
image.jpg
 
Apr 6, 2021 at 9:40 PM Post #1,727 of 1,780

kman1211

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It is important for everyone to distinguish cheapo garbage drivers, from decent stuff.
Most cheapo stuff looks like that driver posted above, having no center vent.
Only the beyerdynamic drivers are both "non-center vented" and good.
But they still have tiny holes.

Anyways, check out this pic of how the plastic types perimeter corrugations flex:
Headphone101_DynamicDriver_DiaphragmAnimation.gif
:)
This is why the dynamic drivers are inherently flawed, compared to either a more pistonic design ( Utopia "bullet tweeter" type, or edge surrounded biocelulous types), or a noticably larger diaphragm that can cover more area in linear range, like the Sony Z1R & HD800 (for dynamics), and planar/electrostatic types.
The Raal requisite was the most fast in speed(good for realism), but wasn't optimal for bass.

Yeah the drivers are very important and one reason I like to know what the drivers are like in a headphone so I can make a better educated guess about a headphones potential, over time you’ll start figuring out what to look for. Best dynamic driver I’ve owned would have to be the DT 48/480. I have an idea why those drivers are so good (they have insane speed and excursion), but don’t fully understand why exactly they’re able to produce a sound I haven’t really heard replicated in other drivers.
 
Apr 6, 2021 at 10:22 PM Post #1,728 of 1,780

kman1211

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While I have posted pictures of this headphone before, here’s pretty much of full breakdown of it. Heres the front, back, and inside driver assembly of the DT 480. This is of a 200 ohm. The driver surround is pink on this one. On my 25 Ohm the surround is white.
3E083469-06D5-4BBE-B2C4-A1B9E5F1CA12.jpeg
3819780D-6C85-48C2-ADF2-16F9300A9C73.jpegF800AC8B-26E6-4FBB-8658-B2A648F50383.jpeg4D113854-DED4-44FF-9BF0-A4BBA4E81CB5.jpeg

This is a previous photo I posted but it’s the magnet assembly taken apart.
F1890DDD-130B-4F4A-9C25-7C060597DEC4.jpeg
 
Apr 7, 2021 at 3:04 AM Post #1,729 of 1,780

GREQ

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I don't understand why people say the DT48 driver is the best, when clearly all measurement graphs show that is incapable of producing anything close to a normal looking frequency reponse.
 
Apr 7, 2021 at 7:13 AM Post #1,730 of 1,780

thatoneheadphonedood

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I don't understand why people say the DT48 driver is the best, when clearly all measurement graphs show that is incapable of producing anything close to a normal looking frequency reponse.
Never tried any headphone better than the grado sr60e’s but those look good.
 
Apr 7, 2021 at 12:41 PM Post #1,731 of 1,780

kman1211

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I don't understand why people say the DT48 driver is the best, when clearly all measurement graphs show that is incapable of producing anything close to a normal looking frequency reponse.
They’re a bit of an enigma in this hobby honestly, many swear by them but measurements don’t seem to indicate anything special. They’re definitely not for everyone, especially stock. In my experience modding them; the housing, damping, and pads are some of the reason why the FR response doesn’t look or sound anything near normal on the DT 48 driver. I say they’re the best drivers I’ve owned after owning and modding numerous headphones, they’re extremely rewarding drivers to work with as their sound is very moldable and transparent.
 
Apr 11, 2021 at 5:36 AM Post #1,732 of 1,780

GREQ

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AKG K551 driver. (glued into baffle too well, so no frontal nudes)

Notes:
- foam cover over rear vent opposite solder tabs - should therefore have better 'balance' of backwave than without it
- ultra-fine woven fabric vent material - looks like good quality material
- only 3 actual baffle ports, even though it looks like there are 10 (2 visible in 3rd pic) - so some shared parts with other K series models.
... kinda looks like a cheap driver that they've pushed to its tuning limits.

1618133192598.png

1618133200111.png

1618133209318.png

1618133218121.png
 
Apr 14, 2021 at 6:43 AM Post #1,733 of 1,780

TheRealestLad

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3d printing my customized Armadillo Headphones print set has been annoying but a learning lesson for me too. And from the last time I printed out the cups the holes for jack socket and driver had no tolerance although were sized to to the exact width/length of the socket and driver. The driver was too tall anyway and I did not consider it too. 3d printing is super cheap anyway so I am not so shocked. So today I made the size upgrade to be 0.1mm bigger and here is the STL file to the cup. And for the driver mount I was playing around and made it sure that the sitting area is not too short. I also do not know how to make the files open source too and I have no experience in modelling at all.
 
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Apr 14, 2021 at 7:18 AM Post #1,734 of 1,780

frank2908

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İt is wise to buy your self a kit of sand paper and model file,sanding a few mm of plastic should take less than 5 mins. Remodel and reprint would take too make time, plastic and resources. Plus these file and tool would come handy in future projects. Sometimes it is not just the lack of clearance between parts,but holes printing vertically will always sag down ( ellipse shape) and the support material will interfere, so sanding or buy a hand drill is better.
 
Apr 14, 2021 at 5:09 PM Post #1,735 of 1,780

TheRealestLad

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İt is wise to buy your self a kit of sand paper and model file,sanding a few mm of plastic should take less than 5 mins. Remodel and reprint would take too make time, plastic and resources. Plus these file and tool would come handy in future projects. Sometimes it is not just the lack of clearance between parts,but holes printing vertically will always sag down ( ellipse shape) and the support material will interfere, so sanding or buy a hand drill is better.
Not sure if I used the word tolerance right but basically the only problem on the cup is that the holes are too tight (exact size as the driver and socket) and also I do not 3d print them too but someone else does. Nothing sags in the parts I get printed too. But also sanding the driver mount seat is going to take a long time and I got school and HW too.
 
Apr 14, 2021 at 10:30 PM Post #1,736 of 1,780

SHAMuuu

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I don't understand why people say the DT48 driver is the best, when clearly all measurement graphs show that is incapable of producing anything close to a normal looking frequency reponse.
The 48/480 are beautiful in the way an old Merlin engine is beautiful. It's not modern, but it is unique. I enjoy modding them and "studying" the music.
Also, I like the feeling of the chase; in that, I can mod them better and better each time.

FWIW, in terms of "music enjoyment," i think Dr. Fang Bian figured out the magic sauce.

While I have posted pictures of this headphone before, here’s pretty much of full breakdown of it. Heres the front, back, and inside driver assembly of the DT 480. This is of a 200 ohm. The driver surround is pink on this one. On my 25 Ohm the surround is white.
3E083469-06D5-4BBE-B2C4-A1B9E5F1CA12.jpeg
3819780D-6C85-48C2-ADF2-16F9300A9C73.jpegF800AC8B-26E6-4FBB-8658-B2A648F50383.jpeg4D113854-DED4-44FF-9BF0-A4BBA4E81CB5.jpeg

This is a previous photo I posted but it’s the magnet assembly taken apart.
F1890DDD-130B-4F4A-9C25-7C060597DEC4.jpeg
nice :D
 
Apr 18, 2021 at 3:38 AM Post #1,738 of 1,780

frank2908

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İn one of their video they talked about self damping diaphragm using metal plating and no off the shelf gasket material used in the audio industry is good enough, so look like they chose cork there. And the metal plating, I'm not sure about this but looks like aluminum plating the whole diaphragm on top of mylar, then cut out the trace, instead of printing aluminum trace ontop of mylar film like usual planar headphones. Anyway just my assumption. Looks like they go very different direction though
 

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