The Entry Level Stax Thread
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Have any of you tried pairing the Bottlehead SEX with Stax earspeakers via a Stax energiser?

Did you like it?
What ohm settings did you use on the SEX?
The energizers are usually self biasing, so you can use whichever tap you want.
 
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hanouk

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Which earpads would you recommend for replacing my used earpads (and with missing internal foam) on my Lambda Pro ?

Stock pleather earpads (Stax EP234BL) or real leather SR-507 (Stax EP507)

The stock ear pads are deep enough for my ears but the pleather makes me sweat especially in summer. The SR-507 ear pads would be more comfortable with the real leather but I'm afraid they seem thinner than the old ear pads.

I'm enjoying a Stax Sigma with SR-202 driver since a few days, and the sound is totally the opposite of the Lambda Pro : wide soundstage, very laidback and smooth sound, massive amont of lower-midrange and warmth, stronger midbass bump but a rather poor low-end extension.
 
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padam

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Pretty much answered it yourself. Some people have upgraded to the leather pads, I tried them on the SR-404 Limited and they do adapt to the head shape a bit better, so the comfort will not be worse despite being thinner.
I think the pleather pads are just closer to what was originally used, so that's what I use on all my Lambdas (and a lot cheaper, too) and I don't have any comfort problems either. I do get sweat sometimes but not too often, and I just wipe it off and it is totally fine afterwards. The Sigma pads are also very similar in terms of the material used, just even thinner than the leather pads.

By the way, if the pads are in fine shape, you can just simply fit the foam mesh as well, they are available as a separate part (but may not worth it as a separate purchase as the shipping is just too expensive): Although new pleather pads are still less sweaty than old ones, this is the entry level thread, so I just thought I might add that in.
 
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hanouk

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The pads are still in acceptable condition. Can you give me the reference for the foam mesh ? I searched for it some weeks ago but didnt find. That could do the trick.
I've read that new pleather earpads come with cloth grills instead of foam.

The Sigma pads are indeed very very thin, but hopefully there's plenty of room for the ears inside.
 
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padam

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Sorry, cloth grill is indeed the precise phase.

https://stax.theshop.jp/items/7561128

I did other these once from Japan, although together with other parts.
I guess that while they are not listed at local distributors, they can order them for you if you ask, although it might not be this cheap.
Same with some Japanese sellers on ebay, who source their parts from here as well. Can't hurt to ask.
But by the same token, a complete pair of pads might not cost that much more with shipping.
 
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hanouk

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Oh many thanks for this link, no surprise I couldnt find with a Google search in English.
I guess you're right, the complete pair is only 2.4x the price of the mesh alone.
 
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Kitchener

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Driver maintenance and modifications.


I currently own an SRM-313 that I purchased used.
This amp was first released in 1999, currently discontinued.
I don't know when it was first purchased.

I'm wondering when I should start considering doing some maintenance on it.
Guessing the capacitors are the first components to start breaking?
I don't know how much use the amp saw with its previous owner, so I can only guess.
It's probably too soon to start worrying?

How about modding?
Is it best to just leave it alone or are there any mods one might consider?
-I'm fairly decent with the soldering iron.




I'm also eyeing a SRM-T1S.
It was launched in 1993, so not that much older than the 313.
Original tubes, no maintenance.
Would it be a good idea to swap caps and tubes or is it probably to soon?

Again, any mods to consider?




I know it's impossible to say for sure without knowing more and actually hearing them so I'm just asking for some qualified guesstimates from people far more experienced than myself; you guys! :)
 
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padam

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There is a modification for the SRM-T1 series, which you can check [here]

You either need a board that is compatible with a holder bracket or drill the case a bit to fit that in.

I am still running the original Hitachi tubes in an SRA-3S, so they last a very long time, but Toshiba/Raytheon/RCA may sound better than others.
 
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For the T1, if the output voltages are close to zero, then the tubes should still be good. As a rule of thumb, if an amp is 20 years or older, you should replace the electrolytic caps, as they tend to have a limited life span. There haven't been a lot of posts of the best sounding tubes for the T1/006/007, but the few who have posted have recommended Toshiba, Raytheon Japan (made by Toshiba), Matsushita or Hitachi. You can tell these tubes because the plates only occupy about 1/2 the height of the tube.
 
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Great, thanks!

I might do a recap then, fun weekends project.

I know people generally recommend Blue Hawais or KGSH amps whenever someone asks about what to get.
But they’re waaay the hell out of my league right now.
-and what I can realistically slip by the missuss :gs1000smile:
But is there a general consensus on the T1S?
Good?
 
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So the T1 series is generally viewed as working very well with the Lambda series phones. The mod that @padam linked will improve the drive capability of the T1 so that it can do a creditable job with even the SR-007 phones - see @Muffinhead's comments in the Stax III thread in Jan and Feb before and after doing that mod.
 
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I was thinking of getting an L300 (5 and 7 are out of my league as well) and pairing it with either the 313 or T1S.
Maybe pairing my Lambda Pro with the T1S is a better idea?
 
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Recently my srm-252s gave out and now I'm looking at the SRD-7SB. I know that it's passive and acts as a sort of adapter using the power of a speaker amp, but I was wondering if it would work with my L300s because I only see 2 6-Pin inputs while the L300s have the 5-pin pro-bias input? Any help would be much appreciated, thanks.
 
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Recently my srm-252s gave out and now I'm looking at the SRD-7SB. I know that it's passive and acts as a sort of adapter using the power of a speaker amp, but I was wondering if it would work with my L300s because I only see 2 6-Pin inputs while the L300s have the 5-pin pro-bias input? Any help would be much
Recently my srm-252s gave out and now I'm looking at the SRD-7SB. I know that it's passive and acts as a sort of adapter using the power of a speaker amp, but I was wondering if it would work with my L300s because I only see 2 6-Pin inputs while the L300s have the 5-pin pro-bias input? Any help would be much appreciated, thanks.
you will get sound. But the six pin units are the wrong voltage. Your headphones would be severely under powered.
 
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Recently my srm-252s gave out and now I'm looking at the SRD-7SB. I know that it's passive and acts as a sort of adapter using the power of a speaker amp, but I was wondering if it would work with my L300s because I only see 2 6-Pin inputs while the L300s have the 5-pin pro-bias input? Any help would be much appreciated, thanks.
What kind of price range are you looking at? Mjolnir Audio has refurbished and modded SRM-1 Mk2 (PRO bias added to one socket, recapped, cleaned) for $500 (plus shipping) and an absolutely mint SRD-7 Mk2 PRO for $410 (plus shipping.)

https://mjolnir-audio.com/used-amplifiers/

Shipping from Iceland is not exactly cheap though...
 

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