rlisin
100+ Head-Fier
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2017
- Posts
- 199
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- 102
The easiest ways are
1. With a spare cable - open the headphone, connect the spare cable to the suspected driver's contacts (where the original cable is soldered to the driver), check if there's sound. If yes, the driver is OK, the cable is the problem.
2. With a DMM - open the headphone, connect the DMM probes to driver contacts (where the cable is soldered to the driver), test the driver (check resistance and/or continuity). Then connect the DMM probes to the cable on both ends (the plug and driver contacts) and test the cable (continuity).
To open the headphone, carefully take off the earpad (it's held on with double sided tape, it can be reused) and then pry the driver out from the cup (it's simply pushed in, you need a thin tool to pry it out. More details here: https://www.head-fi.org/threads/dis...ould-help-with-re-cabling-and-modinng.618332/
It's for DT1350, but the procedure is the same for T51.
1. With a spare cable - open the headphone, connect the spare cable to the suspected driver's contacts (where the original cable is soldered to the driver), check if there's sound. If yes, the driver is OK, the cable is the problem.
2. With a DMM - open the headphone, connect the DMM probes to driver contacts (where the cable is soldered to the driver), test the driver (check resistance and/or continuity). Then connect the DMM probes to the cable on both ends (the plug and driver contacts) and test the cable (continuity).
To open the headphone, carefully take off the earpad (it's held on with double sided tape, it can be reused) and then pry the driver out from the cup (it's simply pushed in, you need a thin tool to pry it out. More details here: https://www.head-fi.org/threads/dis...ould-help-with-re-cabling-and-modinng.618332/
It's for DT1350, but the procedure is the same for T51.