[Mouseman]

The clear plastic parts on mine both broke as well. Seems to be indicative of the overall build quality of these K7** models. That said it doesn't seem to affect functionality at all.

The problem I'm having with mine is finding original replacement pads, they don't exist. So far I've tried two Dekoni pads, the 'Elite Valour' and 'Fenestration Sheepskin'. They feel okay but change the sound way too much and not for the better.

It's getting to the point where it'll be cheaper just to buy another K7XX from Drop.

Can anyone recommend some pads that sound the same or very close to the stock pads?

Thanks

I got the Dekoni hybrid pads, and I think they actually improved the sound.They are also very comfortable. But if you don't like the other models, you might not like those.

 

[498552]

I got the Dekoni hybrid pads, and I think they actually improved the sound.They are also very comfortable. But if you don't like the other models, you might not like those.

Thanks Mouseman, you're right though, I don't think I'm gonna risk it. lol

The two Dekoni's I already bought nearly cost as much as the headphones themselves so I think I'm just going to wait until these wear out and buy a new K7XX.

 

[Mouseman]

Thanks Mouseman, you're right though, I don't think I'm gonna risk it. lol

The two Dekoni's I already bought nearly cost as much as the headphones themselves so I think I'm just going to wait until these wear out and buy a new K7XX.

I got mine on Drop, so they weren't that expensive.

One other thing I'd suggest is a powerful amp. I set the AKGs aside when I got my Sennheiser Jubilees, I liked the sound a lot more out of most of my sources. Then I got the Burson Playmate and I was working through my collection and plugged them in -- I was shocked how good they sounded. They definitely react well to lots of power (the Playmate has tons).

 

[MtnMan307]

They really like a lot of power. It’s definitely more than you need but the Lyr 3 really makes them sing.

 

[498552]

It's a shame about the build quality and lack of pads as they sound very good plugged into pretty much anything.

 

[DavidA]

I got mine on Drop, so they weren't that expensive.

One other thing I'd suggest is a powerful amp. I set the AKGs aside when I got my Sennheiser Jubilees, I liked the sound a lot more out of most of my sources. Then I got the Burson Playmate and I was working through my collection and plugged them in -- I was shocked how good they sounded. They definitely react well to lots of power (the Playmate has tons).

For me it was not a more powerful amp that made the difference but one that had a slightly higher output impedance and the way I noticed this was when I got a Project Ember which has jumpers that allows you to change the output impedance quickly without having to turn off the amp.

 

[gooeyrich]

B Stock direct from AKG for $150:

https://www.akg.com/Headphones/Professional Headphones/K7xx+B-Stock.html

 

[fotomeow]

AKG K7xx help please:

My left channel started shaking and rattling. I Looked inside, all wires were intact, but soldering points look week with such a THIN WIRE GAUGE.

I mean, it’s at least a 22 or 24 gauge.

As I started to desolder the joints (so I could resolder them more solidly), I was wondered if replacing the internal wires with a heavier gauge would help the Sound Quality?

Maybe go 4 gauges higher?

E.g., if stock gauge is 24, replace them with 20 gauge?

I would that mess up the resistance or other electrical properties that were calculated by AKG when they engineered the HPs?

Any thoughts?
Thank you!

 

[Baycode]

AKG K7xx help please:

My left channel started shaking and rattling. I Looked inside, all wires were intact, but soldering points look week with such a THIN WIRE GAUGE.

I mean, it’s at least a 22 or 24 gauge.

As I started to desolder the joints (so I could resolder them more solidly), I was wondered if replacing the internal wires with a heavier gauge would help the Sound Quality?

Maybe go 4 gauges higher?

E.g., if stock gauge is 24, replace them with 20 gauge?

I would that mess up the resistance or other electrical properties that were calculated by AKG when they engineered the HPs?

Any thoughts?
Thank you!

You probably couldn't tell the difference after changing the internal wire (unless it is placebo). So I strongly do not suggest to change them unless it breaks again and again...

 

[fotomeow]

Thanks Bay
That is just it, I solder the thin stock wires, and they break.
I might be a clutz, but those skimpy ass wires suck!

 

[fotomeow]

I was warned about overheating the voice coil connection, but I think I did last night!
I couldn't take a pic, but I saw 2 small dents in the membrane. I was PO'ed, but
this morning when I looked at the membranes, they were nice and smooth again!
Maybe I just overheated it for a short period.

I would post an image, but its too much of a PITA on this site

 

[Relaxin]

That was my main concern when I got my AKG 702 65th annis. I was pretty pissed to find rubber bands on such and expensive headphone. However the sound is amazing, they are light and VERY comfortable (with the new velor/memory foam earpads and flat headband. (Ala the K712)

There are some options for dealing with the eventual elastic band wearing out. 1, You can get the part number and track down replacement parts and carefully disassemble and install them. 2. you can find where they fit you best, mark that, and then use tape, epoxy, JB weld, etc to hold them in the correct position to fit your head forever. 3, You can try to implement a hook system of some sort so that you can attach springs (the kind with loops at the end) or rubber bands, hair bands ect. that can be taken off and replaced easily. My idea is to drill very small holes the size (diameter) of a strong paperclip and bend small sections of paper clips shaped into a hook, then JB weld them into the holes. Then I can use springs or rubber bands and maintain the self adjusting ability. I have not done this mod yet. The danger would be drilling in the wrong place into some component and damage the headphone. You could also use course grit sand paper to roughen the area you want the hooks to go, then JB Weld or epoxy some other kind of hook or attachment without drilling whole. Perhaps use a small plastic block with a hole (small square bead or something like that) and glue it on the outer surface it so that you can also replace the paperclip hook if it ever bends or breaks.

Being able to easily replace the rubber bands without taking the whole thing apart is a huge design flaw. But I think with a little effort and ingenuity this flaw can be overcome, with various levels of neatness (duct tape or carefully fashioned hooks with springs etc) as desired. I think the comfort and sound quality are worth the effort. (As long as you are ok with their sound signature, and don't need/want huge bass impact, but are satisfied with tight accurate bass, with maybe a little EQ (and an amp, these really need to be amped) to bring it out a bit more.)

I haven't read all the responses in this ever growing thread yet, so sorry if I'm covering ground someone else has already been covered.

-edit-

I don't plan to try this mod until I have issues with the stock elastic bands. So I think it's worth mentioning that if anyone tries the drill-a-hole, glue in paperclip hook method, its probably a really good idea to go at the sides of the paperclip with a dremmel sanding/grinding wheel, or else do it by hand, to really rough up the surface of that paperclip to give the epoxy/jb weld something to hold on to. The hole only really serves the function of holding the hook in place while the glue cures. If you use 5 min epoxy you might can just glue it straight on without any holes. There's not much room on top (the upper bracket thing that holds the other end of the rubber band) to be drilling, so probably that's going to need to be a glue job. JB weld takes 24hrs but if mixed right it totally indestructible and close to the same color as the plastic. But it moves and drips for a while before it sets. Gravity is not your friend with that stuff. 5 min epoxy is probably a better choice though not as strong so long as both surfaces are roughed up pretty good so it will grip well. Then maybe hit it with some paint after it dries.

-edit-

And do yourself a favor and turn those nice cushy velvet ear pads counter clockwise and take them off before you get epoxy on them!

I fixed mine with a little piece of rubber hose that I cut from a bicycle brake cable housing. Wrap it around the two plastic headband pieces in between the AKG logo and the static piece with the Massdrop logo.

 

[jdowne04]

I have a question i own these and would love to know if getting a pair of AKG K712 Pro's would be worth it and if there is any differences i often find the AKG K7xx a little bit lacking in highs and just a tad bit boomy in the bass. Have them paired on a Objective 2+Odac

 

[Nikonkit]

I have a question i own these and would love to know if getting a pair of AKG K712 Pro's would be worth it and if there is any differences i often find the AKG K7xx a little bit lacking in highs and just a tad bit boomy in the bass. Have them paired on a Objective 2+Odac

I have both and the K712Pro is a cut above being more open dynamic and ear catching, if I have to I rate it's 20 % better provided that you drive both with a powerful amp, if your amp is not then the difference is not as obvious.

 

[Baycode]

I have a question i own these and would love to know if getting a pair of AKG K712 Pro's would be worth it and if there is any differences i often find the AKG K7xx a little bit lacking in highs and just a tad bit boomy in the bass. Have them paired on a Objective 2+Odac

Sorry for super late reply... I like to leave it as a general info so someone may benefit:
According to your sound preference an AKG K400 (MP) can be a nice choice if you don't mind getting it second hand (search ebay and forums). But I love both my K7XX and K400.

PS: K400 is more power hungry compared to K7XX.