Stacking magnets?
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legopart

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The magnet is pushed or polled by the both sides same polarity that affect the coil.
The middle part may be hollow, and the speaker will still work fine


You know what, vise versa, only the center will got the polarity


on ideal roll, this position wont work at all, the magnetize coil wont move anywhere.
 
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Sharpty

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Also by adding magnets that are stronger than the speaker magnet itself, you can significantly weaken the field across the VC. Bucking magnets are usually 60-80% as powerful as the driver magnet to keep from overpowering it and weakening the flux at the VC gap
 
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Do the old school magnets become weaker ?
Magnets do lose strength over time but it is very slow under normal conditions. Heat and impact will weaken a magnet
 
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legopart

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Also by adding magnets that are stronger than the speaker magnet itself, you can significantly weaken the field across the VC. Bucking magnets are usually 60-80% as powerful as the driver magnet to keep from overpowering it and weakening the flux at the VC gap
I feel difference for good, and not got any damage from completed mod.

The only disadvantage that the magnetic caps now attract to them metal obstetrical.
And on sticking mod process you could damage the drivers by it self and it connections.
 
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Also by adding magnets that are stronger than the speaker magnet itself, you can significantly weaken the field across the VC. Bucking magnets are usually 60-80% as powerful as the driver magnet to keep from overpowering it and weakening the flux at the VC gap
This is why I personally always use a smaller diameter magnet. It lessens the chance of being more powerful than stock.
 
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Cruelhand Luke

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I went back and re-read my first impressions when I 'super ultra magnetized'(tm)* my 9500s. I did several headphones at the same time.
I don't have measurement rigs and have only a passing interest in looking at graphs. I don't live by them because there are so many other variables that affect the way one perceives sound: what is the size and shape of your head, do you wear glasses, are the headphones properly amplified, do you live at sea level or in the mountains, how old are you, how well do you actually hear...on and on...
I figured I would add magnets to all of my headphones that were good candidates for it and see if anything sounded different.
I listened to a list of songs I know really well...
In broad terms I thought there were 3 possible outcomes:
1) all of them sounded better which might mean placebo or it might mean adding magnets works really well.
2) none of them sounded better which might mean that everybody except me was experiencing the placebo effect
3 )some of them sounded better, some didn't....which to my mind indicates it does work, on some headphones (and some people could also be experiencing the placebo effect)
in my limited, person, subjective opinion...some sounded better. The 9500s stands out. The magnets were a last little mod that took them to the next level in terms of sound. On the other hand a really well thought out, well designed and beautifully built headphone, the Fidelio L2? I didn't notice any improvement adding magnets, it was perfect as-is.

* I don't recall where I read this phrase, but somewhere along the line another forum member who I think is from Brasil asked a question about stacking magnets and used the phrase 'super ultra magnetized' ...it's such a cool combination of words, I mean putting 'super' with 'ultra' is fun,
but throwing Magnetized in there is genius.
I hope y'all pick up my new solo album, "Cruelhand Luke, Superultramagnetized"
 
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Cruelhand Luke

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...but a question remains.
Did the magnets help the sound because the drivers were mass loaded and therefore damping of the driver occurred resulting in a 'cleaner' sound? In the same way adding blutak, dynamat or sorbothane would affect the sound by limiting unwanted resonances? Or did the super ultra magnetized waves do it?
I think it's both. I think in some headphones the combination of a stronger magnet and the added damping on the stock magnet results in better sound.
 
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Cruelhand Luke

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post-14673044
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Sharpty

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Some more posts about bucking magnets that I found:

https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/28698-adding-magnets.html

https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/295607-mounting-magnet-magnet-issue.html

You may be able to add a bucking magnet without adhesive, It should repel at first but once it is very close to the driver magnet, it will attract. At least this is the case for speakers.

Also i've noticed that cheap chinese Neo magnets can vary widely in magnetic strength. I bought about 25 small "n50" cylindrical neos a few years ago and some hardly worked at all while some were very strong. Idk how you would find a matched set.
 
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post-14673113
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Some more posts about bucking magnets that I found:

https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/28698-adding-magnets.html

https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/295607-mounting-magnet-magnet-issue.html

You may be able to add a bucking magnet without adhesive, It should repel at first but once it is very close to the driver magnet, it will attract. At least this is the case for speakers.

Also i've noticed that cheap chinese Neo magnets can vary widely in magnetic strength. I bought about 25 small "n50" cylindrical neos a few years ago and some hardly worked at all while some were very strong. Idk how you would find a matched set.
To truly get a matched pair, you’d need to measure it on a gauss meter (aka Tesla meter).

Hobby grade ones run about $100, and lab grade ones can run $20k.

Most can also identify N and S poles, which is handy for our purposes.
 
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To truly get a matched pair, you’d need to measure it on a gauss meter (aka Tesla meter).

Hobby grade ones run about $100, and lab grade ones can run $20k.

Most can also identify N and S poles, which is handy for our purposes.
Need to find a layman's alternative, like seeing how many ball bearings or nuts you can pick up in a chain
 
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legopart

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To truly get a matched pair, you’d need to measure it on a gauss meter (aka Tesla meter).

Hobby grade ones run about $100, and lab grade ones can run $20k.

Most can also identify N and S poles, which is handy for our purposes.
You can buy a compass for only $1 :ksc75smile:
 
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You can buy a compass for only $1 :ksc75smile:
Well that will identify N and S, but not give a quantitative measurement of the gauss of the stock magnet, matching a set of extra magnets, and the resulting final gauss from stacking. It also won’t allow the measurement of the difference between stacking the extra magnet with the poles in attracted vs repelled mode.

What I could do is contact a few local universities and see if any have a gauss meter, and if so ask if I can use it for a few hours.

Another option is to buy one, use it, and return or resell it.
 
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